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NineCherries

Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 47

Exhaust manifold and stud query

Hello, unfortunately the manifold has warped on mine and snapped a stud.
It's a fairly standard 110 and I've no plans on big maps or turbo in the future as it's my daily driver.

I know this is a common occurrence but what are folks longer term feelings on repairing them? I'm going to speak to a local engineering place on Monday about machining it flat again, but......

Is it worth cutting out the webs? I know folk have and when you search on here and the web I get lots of hits about it.

Is it true they are less likely to warp in the future after it's been machined?

Then it's onto the studs. So long as the thread is intact I do not plan on installing larger diameter ones, the standard ones have lasted 24 years n 160k but I have read about widening the diameter of the mounting holes on the manifold to allow expansion etc

I've also seen options for longer studs and fitting spacers..... Is this to allow for the cast and alloy contracting and expanding at different rates?

I'm guessing lots of you have had this issue so I'm interested in how people's choices have been holding up.

Thanks T

11th May 2024 4:13pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17192

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Dewebbing the manifold means it is less likely to break studs in the future since the manifold becomes a little more flexible.

As far as the studs are concerned, if you can get the broken bit out of the head you can go with standard size, and usually they come out ok. If you're really lucky there'll be enough sticking out to get hold of, if not drill it out very carefully with a left-hand cutting drill. If the hole is damaged you have little choice but to Helicoil or Timesert the hole for standard or go oversized.

11th May 2024 5:45pm

NineCherries

Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 47

Thanks 👍🏻

I presume de-webb before it gets machined, yeah?

11th May 2024 6:53pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5563

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Deweb and if you’ve got a broken stud, wind it into the head, then clean/recut thread, then try to extract. A warped head is unlikely to warp again. Especially if dewebbed Done a good few of them. Only use good quality studs to fit such a Wurth items and if you need drill head and go with a size bigger stud.

11th May 2024 7:39pm

MadTom

Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 608

Last time I let the manifold to heat threatement to release any internall tension, because it warped second time after 12 years of hard use (heavy car, outer temperatures like 45 °C and high altitude like over 2000m asl.) during our summer trips. It was warped without broken studs, but it was leaking. Heat threating was like - make it red hot in oven and let it cool really slow, like days long. And than resurface. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo

12th May 2024 5:41am

Jabberwocky

Member Since: 27 Oct 2021
Location: Luxembourg
Posts: 212

Be aware if you drill the stud not to go too far as you can breach the water jacket and cause a leak, my manifold was skimmed as part of a repair fixing a ‘leaking’ ( coolant not gases) stud, the webbing was left as is.

13th May 2024 2:42pm

NineCherries

Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 47

thanks for your opinions.

local engineering place is going to machine it flat again for me with a quick turnaround. I'll get the left hand drill bits, gaskets studs etc organised then pick a day and get it removed and sorted.

thanks folks.

T

14th May 2024 8:20am

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