Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Broken centre console tabs on Puma Dash |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347 |
Plastic weld with a soldering iron maybe an option, preferably an old one you don’t use or get rid of the tips after.
Superglue maybe another option if it’s a precise joint, it’s surprisingly powerful the bond, but is a little more brittle than the above option. Melting plastic zip ties could work, but the fumes you want to avoid… $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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4th May 2024 11:49am |
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Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: East Sussex Posts: 39 |
Ironically I went for the plastic welding option first with added cable ties. The weakest point of the slots is so thin it is very hard to get a dcent bond. My inferior cable ties were a very brittle adhesive.
I might be able to epoxy something but it would be tough with the dash in situ. Perhaps some bulkead checking and soundproofing to make it worthwhile. 2001 Defender Special Vehicles TD5 Hardtop (Ex Scottish & Southern) Side Lockers, Side Hatches - Poorly chassis and bulkhead. (SORNd) 2013 Defender Puma Utility XS |
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4th May 2024 1:03pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347 |
How about hot glue? That’s sort of semi flexible, removable, but, quite a decent bond on clear surfaces.
Just an idea, but yes, I know what you mean regarding those slots they can bend quite easy. The dash is much better to work on, with it completely removed but of course that is a job in itself. There isn’t really anything much you can soundproof behind there, best that can be done really is tidy up wiring, if you needed to replace the windscreen wiper wheel boxes and rack that’s a good time to do it as well. But other than that it’s centre dash access only, sometimes closing the metal clips just a little more helps relieve the tension on the dash entry points, also helps with centre dash removal. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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4th May 2024 4:33pm |
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