 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Old Engine Oil - spray underneath |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443   
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Once long ago this was popular but probably not very effective. Now it is almost certainly illegal as well as being not very effective.
Many of the things we did in the old days are best left in the past. There are much more effective and less damaging ways to treat your chassis. |
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1st May 2024 7:07am |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1623
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back in the day this was common but modern oils tend to have a corrosive element these days with cats and dpfs and diesel dilution.
some folk use fresh oil but i would rather use a proper product |
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1st May 2024 9:19am |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 866  
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Never used old engine oil under a car (would have thought it washed off with the first rain), but often slopped it all over my wooden garden fences.
But, of course, now DEFINITELY "... certainly illegal". Peter |
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1st May 2024 10:24am |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3373
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Lanogaurd is preferable and easier to put on
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1st May 2024 11:43am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441
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Not a solution, it would wash off anyway.
There are a few good options such as Dinitrol I’ve been happy with, and there are others too as mentioned. They evaporate to a rubbery hard grease that’s both corrosion preventative and abrasion resistant up to a point. A lot of corrosion / rust is caused by impact or abrasion, even mild, then when the steel is exposed it then provides the access for the water to pitch on the surface and eat in when oxygen is present. And any road salt or if in coastal areas speeds it up even more. I used aerosol brown internal wax with applicator straws, and black was on external. Hammerite Kurust is useful before applying of any minor corrosion areas after cleaning. The biggest bulk of the work involved is cleaning the underside thoroughly, applying the rustproofing is the easy part really. Then you have the PPE etc to deal with but it is worth doing properly it lasts for a VERY long time. I’m still happy with mine and I did it years ago, it doesn’t need much work to top up either. ACF50 is good too, which is clear but aromatically potent and I’d keep it well away from rubber or plastic. I find the ACF50 is good for the door threshold pieces away from door rubbers and for brackets and seatbelt brackets and things like that where it can seep in behind parts. Bear in mind to keep all of this off of any hot parts like the exhaust, turbo, engine etc and also away from the brakes for obvious reasons. A thin covering of very well evaporated Dinitrol on the engine oil pan protects it well is the only exception, it can get rust and tin worm set in on that and if it went through that would be a disaster…Basically if applied, let it gas off and evaporate a minimum of a day or two. Hope there is a few suggestions there, we all have a fair few tips and tricks to share. But you don’t want to be using used engine oil or any used oil, it has carcinogenic properties so needs to be handled carefully with PPE and disposed of and recycled appropriately. :thumbs up: $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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1st May 2024 6:09pm |
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