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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
As suggested, and as I plan to do it'd be best to remove them. (The Prop shafts.)
For access to nipples & to torque properly.

The nipple torque is indeed 8nm.

I'm looking at the WSM right now.
Front and rear prop shaft nut Torque is 47nm, with the exception of the handbrake drum / prop nuts which are 50nm.
The nuts use a 9/16th AF spanner, (or prop shaft tool, or both ideally.)

The nuts are should be replaced, and personally I'd replace the bolts also.


I have found two nipples missing on mine also, front prop UJ to transfer box and rear prop UJ to rear diff.
The latter has gave me issues with the Pinion seal again etc too.

The WSM does mention to mark flanges, when removing and re-installing.
As Blackwolf suggested, whether there is much point in bothering remains to be seen.
I probably will just for the sake of it, no issues to do. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #706570 11th May 2018 12:30pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
Hope the OP doesn't mind me commenting on the tghread a little further but ive removed my rear prop and handgbrake drum today, the latter wasn't a must but I chose to.
Won't hurt to clean it up a bit anyway.

I've also found the UJ is donefor on mine, after articulating it and checking it. This is the UJ furthest to the rear, nearest the rear diff.

I'd ideally like to replace all the bolts as I have them, but the transfer box end they are partially captive.
The large circlip keeps them in place, but I feel that even if this is removed I'm not convinced they would come out even then.
Plus I don't have a circlip tool as big as that. Rolling Eyes
Would it be a flange out job instead?

I'm guessing it may be the case, if so I'll leave them alone as they are in good condition.

*EDIT* Done a few searches, and looks like the flange would indeed need to come off to replace those bolts.
I'll leave them alone I think.

It's looking a lot like I'll need to go down the GKN UJ replacement route. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #706756 12th May 2018 3:12pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17444

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, flange off, circlip off, bolts out, reverse to refit.

However there is absolutely no point whatsoever replacing the bolts (3/8" UNF by the way) unless the threads are damaged. I replace the nuts about every third removal since nylon insert nuts become less stiff each time they're used, but there's no need to replace them every time like the WSM says (it's easy to spend when it's not your money)?
Post #706762 12th May 2018 3:58pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป Thank-you Blackwolf as always.
I didn't go for Genuine nuts anyway, but the correct size.
As I read on another site, having a LR logo doesn't make them any better than OEM for things like nuts and bolts.

Ideal opportunity now to give my handbrake drum a clean, and will need to look up the 2.4 Puma 90 GKN UJ's.
LR's are @ ยฃ53 each from Duckworths, I think GKN will be perfectly sufficient and OEM anyway.

Only thing is I will need to have them changed over for me.

One UJ on one lateral movement appears to be pretty much siezed, probably due to the grease nipple missing and from when I do not know!
My guess is water has got straight in.
Luckily the slider nipples are all still present though and there is no damage to the yokes.

I can't see sticking new nipples in. (If the threads left are any good.) will be worthwhile at all on the UJ's.
Especially as the WSM mentions that they should be replaced, I'd imagine the roller bearing are shot.

There was no way of telling without removing the props that's for sure, and I do agree with Blackwolf that removal is the best scenario to grease and check them. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #706767 12th May 2018 4:19pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I suppose they always specify new nylocs in general, as a workshop can't be sure how many times they've been used before. I suppose there is a liability element to it too.

I tend to reuse them a couple of times unless there on something difficult to get at or safety critical. On the flanges there are 4 so it's highly unlikely one let alone more than one would come loose!

I've bought a few selection boxes of nyloc nuts though. UNF, UNC and Metric. They work out at pence per time that way and if you find when reassembling something that one isn't as grippy as it should be it's easy to just fit a new one.

Sometimes I'll buy genuine nuts and bolts if they're an odd size, it's less hassle to just pay ยฃ1 a nut/bolt/screw than waste time tracking down one that matches.
Post #706768 12th May 2018 4:19pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17444

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
custom90steve wrote:
...
Only thing is I will need to have them changed over for me.
...


Replacing ujs is not difficult and well within the capabilities of most diy mechanics, but it is easier if someone shows you how the first time (although I am sure that there are many YouTube vids claiming to show how to do them). It is certainly an essential skill for Defender owners who do their own maintenance IMO.

I usually buy my ujs from Dingocroft and always buy GKN and always the ones with the largest journals that will fit the prop.
Post #706787 12th May 2018 5:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
I've never done a UJ before so I didn't know what was involved really, having just looked at a good YouTube video this one:


It doesn't look like to bad a job, I've recently acquired a grease gun and quality up to spec Lithium grease.
I've also got some of the grease nipples en-route.
I knew I'd find a use for my circlip so plier one day too. Laughing

The UJ ref / P/N: TVC500010

Here @ Dingocroft: https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000...C500010_3d

Or here via EBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVC500010-Land-...SwDcpZqBWE

The above are coming up as 2007> (which my 90 is) and the grease nipple central is the same as fitted currently and I'm running factory props.
Can anyone confirm these are correct or is there a more HD option I'm missing? No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช


Last edited by custom90 on 13th May 2018 2:09pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #706838 12th May 2018 10:36pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

Scotland 
If buying non-genuine UJs make sure you get the HD ones with the metal seal caps and larger rollers. They are the same as the genuine ones.

Should cost you just under ยฃ20 each. If youโ€™re paying significantly less than that then youโ€™re probably getting the โ€˜standardโ€™ ones which will not last as long. All types are sold as โ€˜OEMโ€™ which in this case is a useless label.

Here are the HD ones: http://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-s...m-j-75x27/

Thatโ€™s the 75mm size - check yours to ensure thatโ€™s the right type.
Post #706871 13th May 2018 8:01am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
Please see my edited post above. I forgot to add the links. Rolling Eyes

Retro - According to the link you posted they are smaller pre Puma. The 2007 90 > is larger than those using the P/N I have now listed in my post above. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช


Last edited by custom90 on 13th May 2018 3:43pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #706900 13th May 2018 2:01pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

Scotland 
If youโ€™ve got the 95mm ones then theyโ€™re different yes, no idea if they are the same as the 75mm ones in terms of HD/genuine etc. Iโ€™m afraid.

If in doubt buy one Land Rover one and a couple of the better cheaper ones and see which matches.
Post #706916 13th May 2018 3:41pm
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Naycrx



Member Since: 11 Oct 2023
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 133

 
Evening

Just been greased prop shafts and UJ's

All ok apart from I can't find a grease nipple on the front prop uj, where it meets the Transfer box ? 2008 2.4 puma.

I have some grease nipples just struggling to see where it should go
Post #1032571 23rd Apr 2024 5:14pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
Is it on a Puma? *edit* just saw it is.

Yeah, itโ€™s in the centre of the UJ โ€œspiderโ€.
There is a threaded hole there, you can buy them from LR, they are 2 piece so the coupling comes out at a 45 degree angle. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #1032573 23rd Apr 2024 5:16pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ront_44792
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266382677727?it...R-Cz1b_hYw No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #1032575 23rd Apr 2024 5:21pm
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Naycrx



Member Since: 11 Oct 2023
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 133

 
Great.... forced grease into them .... so all good.... Will fit a nipple tommorow to the central one .

Thanks again
Post #1032594 23rd Apr 2024 7:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20446

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up Thumbs Up No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #1032682 24th Apr 2024 3:07pm
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