 | Home > Tdi > 300tdi starting trouble: immobilizer vs ??? |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3418   
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Not particularly knowledgeable on the 300tdi, but I thought that engine on the Defender is purely mechanical, so does not need much more than a 12V on the fuel shut off solenoid to start. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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14th Apr 2024 6:37am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5724 
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As above. Not my thing Tdi but thought power to starter and fuel cutoff solenoid. Have you checked the operation of the fuel solenoid in the pump?
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14th Apr 2024 7:48am |
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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 120  
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As above, you only need two electrical items to start a standard 300 -
(Some later 300s, mostly automatics I think, had different injection pumps) You need the starter to spin, which you have, and... You need +12v on the solenoid on the injection pump. Get your multimeter out and check you are getting the wire / terminal on the top of the injection pump goes high with ignition. |
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14th Apr 2024 9:34am |
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| Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 181 
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Check that a connection on the back of the Ignition barrel hasn't come off.
Does the flashing red light go solid when you try to crank? LR Workshop Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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14th Apr 2024 10:00am |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 623 
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A 1998 will have the metal anti tamper shroud over the injection pump solenoid. This needs removing, it’s that long since I’ve done one but you have to get a bit brutal - it’s to stop people “hotwiring” the solenoid with 12v from the battery, basically exactly what you are going to have to do.
You can then put 12v to the solenoid and you should hear it click. If it doesn’t click the solenoid has packed up. You need a 24mm crowfoot spanner to remove the solenoid in situ. |
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14th Apr 2024 7:07pm |
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| Rutlandtravels Member Since: 13 Apr 2024 Location: Napoli Posts: 9 
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Copy all, gents. Thank you for taking the time to educate me. I’m assuming that in order to do this jump I’ll need to hot wire the starter motor and injection pump solenoid at the same time. Give me a yes/no and I’ll report back this evening. Happy Monday!
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15th Apr 2024 4:26am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5724
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Yes. Stick 12v to both at same time.
The fuel solenoid is basically a plunger that blocks the fuel from passing. I believe that on a TDi that it will be a simple single wire one. When you apply power then it pulls the plunger allowing fuel to flow. Can easily be tested off the vehicle with applying a bit of power to it. |
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15th Apr 2024 7:53am |
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| Floydboy Member Since: 23 Apr 2022 Location: Norwich Posts: 4 
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Hi, I experienced a similar problem on my similar Defender. It turned out to be the Alarm Spider which sits in the compartment under the passenger seat (RHD) near the battery. The Spider controls the alarm and its features, central locking, etc.
Spider is in a box in a box to keep it waterproof and tamperproof, BUT, they do corrode on the PCB. One of my PCB soldered joints had gone green and cracked. Actually cutting the metal box rivets off to get inside made it work as we disturbed the joint enough to make it connect. I sent it to a guy in the UK who can overhaul and upgrade them. see email link, he is excellent. He added central locking relays etc. Turned pider around in 3 days including my post, his repair and his post. About £100 and works better than before as alarm fob now has more range. https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/la...-services/ You can also get a jumper connector which plugs in instead of the spider if you are happy to give up the alarm or want a back up. see image, were on ebay not sure where else or you can get someone to make one or bridge wires temporarily if you are stuck |
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20th Apr 2024 8:32am |
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| Rutlandtravels Member Since: 13 Apr 2024 Location: Napoli Posts: 9
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Thanks Floydboy. I actually sent him an email 3 days ago, haven’t gotten a response yet.
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20th Apr 2024 11:10am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6093 
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My old 110 Tdi also had the spider unit, and that also caused issues.
I drilled the rivets out, removed it and soldered over all the joints on the board, and it never gave trouble after that. There was a genuine LR plug to bypass the spider unit available. Whether this is still out there, don't know. |
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21st Apr 2024 2:10pm |
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| Rutlandtravels Member Since: 13 Apr 2024 Location: Napoli Posts: 9
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A grand update after much trouble shooting, following comments and with the help of the bypass plug: I can jump the starter motor and turn the ignition and now the engine is working. My dear what a process to find. Next challenge: determine if the fault is the ignition wire to the starter or the ignition block - but instruments always lit up on position II
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29th Apr 2024 4:55pm |
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| LiftedDisco Member Since: 17 Aug 2014 Location: Towcester Posts: 354
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If you have a working engine when you put a dedicated 12v feed to the fuel solenoid, it sounds pretty much like your spider is fried.
This is a common issue on Discovery 300 TDi’s and there is a spider bypass unit available at £10-18 depending on where you get it - eBay or Devon 4x4, take your pick. Find your spider (as others have suggested), then fit the bypass kit - you won’t have an immobiliser, but will have a working engine. Good luck! |
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29th Apr 2024 8:04pm |
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| Rutlandtravels Member Since: 13 Apr 2024 Location: Napoli Posts: 9
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Thank you, Sir. Right, have done that, however the truck still doesn’t turnover. It takes turning the ignition while jumping the starter (with bypass installed) to get the engine running. Either my ignition wire to starter or the dedicated power to starter is bad. Tremendous breakthru and sweet sweet deliverance, yet still not 100%. I can’t be driving around with jumper cables running from my engine to my battery
On a go-fwd, with the bypass plug installed, no reason to keep my fobs on the key ring, right? Or is the system still seeking that connection? Can I remove the green box behind my instruments too or she needed for other electronic management? |
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30th Apr 2024 2:29am |
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