 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fuel filter priming + getting to my prop shaft nipples! |
 
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1081   
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I also prime the empty fuel filter by switching on ignition about 10 times. Makes a gargling noise.
First time I had a bit of a problem to fully close the bayonet. Either use gloves with a good grip or, as I did, carefully use a belt-type oil filter wrench. While your greasing the UJs, also put some grease under the drive flange water caps https://www.kraxlr.de/maintenance.html#ujs |
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7th Mar 2024 7:06pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1081
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7th Mar 2024 7:48pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3418  
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I am glad I am not the only one doing this. It seems to help. I like to mix equal quantities of lithium grease with gear oil. It makes the grease flow better. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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7th Mar 2024 7:54pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418 
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BW - Yes, those end cap nipples are good to ensure every cap is filled rather than hoping it gets all the way into each, which it’ll like electrics will often take the path of least resistance, so some caps might not get any…
That’s why I like a grease gun with a good pressure which helps a bit more, but isn’t going to be 100% infallible. The only thing with these nipples is, are they more exposed to damage with their external location, rather than internal towards the centre such as the single genuine one? Suppose they can be replaced of course. That power tool such is the Milwaukee 18v is the one yes, does it pump out the grease quite fast or at a typical rate? I bet the grease cost does mount up, the Defender doesn’t use much really considering compared to many other toys out there!  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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7th Mar 2024 8:44pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17427 
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The advantages outweigh the disadvantages in my opinion. If you're concerned about damage it is very easy to remove the nipple and blank the hole and only fit the nipple when you need to grease the joint. Only the diff-end nipple is vulnerable anyway, the inboard end is well away from hazards (and on my Def the front propshaft inboard end is above the underbody protection anyway). I have left all my nipples in place and not (yet) damaged one.
It pumps at a steady rate but the motor is driving a piston similar to that on a manual gun. You can select whether you want a certain number of strokes of the pump, or whether you want it pump continuously while the trigger is pressed, by means of a rotary selector on the tool. I can't remember the numbered options, but is it something like 1, 2, 5 or 10 strokes. If you have it on this setting and then want more, just squeeze the trigger again. I've never bothered to count the number strokes per second, but the rate is brisk but controllable. It's a good tool (as are all the Milwaukee M12 and M18 range) but so it should be at the price. |
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8th Mar 2024 2:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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Sounds good, I do like Milwaukee and a good range that they do as well.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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8th Mar 2024 6:33pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 569 
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I have a grease gun that's air powered from the compressor. The air pressure drives a piston that pushes the grease. I've just ordered one of the locking couplers from Gwyn Lewis, I'll report in when it arrives.
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10th Mar 2024 10:03am |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4695 
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Another with the 2.4. Like mentioned, just fill it with diesel then fit and start. Done it many times with no issues. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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12th Mar 2024 1:40pm |
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