 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fuel filter priming + getting to my prop shaft nipples! |
 
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| John P Member Since: 26 Dec 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 320   
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You haven't mentioned if it's a 2.2 or 2.4?
When I changed my fuel filter on the 2.2, it just worked due to the in tank fuel pump. But on my 2.4 there is no in tank pump, so I had to physically bleed the fuel system to get it to run. |
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6th Mar 2024 3:15pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301  
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2.2's have an in tank pump so just fill the new filter with diesel and it should self prime when you crank the engine on the key.
2.4's don't have an in tank pump. Still fill the new filter with diesel and you might be lucky and it runs. If not you need to prime it using the hand pump technique... Or alternatively you can pump some compressed air into the fuel filler neck which forces diesel through the lines and primes the system [/u] > 110 XS Double Cab |
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6th Mar 2024 3:47pm |
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| Shafski Member Since: 19 Jun 2023 Location: Chilterns Posts: 110 
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Literally did my 2.2 last week.
Fuel filter installed empty, I did “prime” via the ignition (on/off) about 10 times listening to the filter refill before actually embracing a start. Rear UJ, jacked up, hand brake off, spin, normal grease gun worked a treat. Front.. Hmm.. a lot of  then eventually with the aid of a needle adaptor on the grease gun managed to grease. My top tip would be lighting if using the needle adaptor, as it needs to be 100% on, or you just make a grease mess to clear up and try again! (Don’t ask me how I know that). I just dropped a lab LED bar under there with me.
Front UJ was very grateful, taking about 5 times more grease than the rear, so I’m guessing the previous servicing dealers put it in the “too difficult” box 
On the plus.. night and day difference when driven now. Shafski _________________________________________ 2015 110 Montalcino Red Utility "Harriet" along with Puma on I.C.E |
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6th Mar 2024 4:41pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1078  
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I know! My car always drives do much better after topping up the washer fluid...
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6th Mar 2024 5:15pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 70 
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Thanks to you all for your replies - and yes, it's a 2.2, so I hopefully won't have too much of a priming issue.
Thanks Shafski! On the UJ re-grease - do I stop pumping when it starts squirting out around the nipple? Not something that I thought I'd ever be writing on a forum of this nature.  |
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6th Mar 2024 7:47pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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You can replace the fuel filter on a 2.4 with no priming, just fill it right to the brim with fresh diesel first ready to fit. I would imagine the 2.2 is the same.
Just have it ready to fit immediately as the original is removed, so an oil pan is ideal if the old one falls over. Old one out, new one in right away, they are a kind of bayonet fitting, I did mine the first time the other day fired right up immediately. UJ re-grease, when you see the fresh grease coming out of the seals, just after you often hear an audible “pop”. This is the coupler I have: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Grease-Gu...amp;sr=8-8 From the States, all the same you can probably get something similar of this style. I’m really pleased with it, I think Gwyn Lewis does something similar, but that is mine. The grease nipples / zerks that are LR Genuine are good, just make sure they don’t get loose and come out. I jack up the axle on one side away from the diff, which opens the gap a little between the prop flange and yolk, of which then you get better access as you can spin the prop then. Just be very careful, secure the vehicle completely with wheel chocks especially when you do the rear, as with the handbrake off is more dangerous and must be done on flat ground in a safe area. I use concrete blocks, but proper wheel chocks or railway sleeper pieces would do. I use an Allemite 500E. (Used to have a pistol grip type before, I didn’t like it so much and the pressure was lower, the Allemite lever action 500E is much better). Try and keep two grease tubes available at all times, Morris K48 is ideal. Only if you don’t keep two grease tubes, you can bet that you might run out half way through the job. It pays to clean the connection point, and also any excess grease off after, so some disposable gloves, a carrier bag and some blue paper roll or kitchen roll or something is ideal. I do mine every 3 months Approx, it’s a bit of work, but worth doing, especially with this wet weather, flooding etc. This is just what I do, and what I use. People do these things all in their own way, with different methods. There is method in the madness so to speak.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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6th Mar 2024 8:50pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 70
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Hi Steve.
Many thanks, massively helpful! I’ll get my jack out, then. It’s a lot longer than three months since I did mine last! But I’ve now bought a grease gun and five cartridges of K48 so should have enough to keep me going for a while. I also bought a set of Gwyn Lewis X-member protectors that fit at the back of the rear wheel arches. So I’m planning on using the K48 on the rear panel before I bolt them in place.  |
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6th Mar 2024 9:05pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17427
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If grease squirts out around the nipple you have a problem, this should never happen. It indicates that either the coupler is not sealing or that the nipple or UJ is blocked. Either way the grease isn't getting to the right place and the life of the UJ is compromised. |
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6th Mar 2024 10:31pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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Gal Dove - No problem, can be a bit messy some cardboard or something to slide on can be useful too.
BW - Oh yes, that’s a pain when that happens. The coupler I have now is much better to latch on and remove, the original coupler I used to have was a big pain. Especially when getting it off again. Does anyone have one of the ultimate greasing options 18v powered? I’m sure someone does, I did consider that but was incredibly expensive if I remember. I was looking at the steering column UJ the other day, is it a sealed one? Only I greased it externally, but I thought I could feel an entry in the centre of the UJ spider on that. I’m not sure if it’s threaded or not, or just an entry point for a grease needle. If it was threaded there seemed very little room for a grease nipple to be fitted, if one did it would end up having to be 90 degree access, that’s if it didn’t bind. I’m guessing it’s either sealed, or just have the entry point to inject grease in. The clutch pedal box, did have a thread in it on mine, a simple straight grease nipple fitted in that. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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6th Mar 2024 10:42pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17427
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The steering column UJs are "sealed for life" and cannot be greased effectively.
The best solution for a propshaft are cap greased UJs, as used on Gwyn Lewis's quality products. No more access issues with these (photo borrowed from Gwyn's website here).  Click image to enlarge
You mean one of these?
Yes, they are brilliant but somewhat overkill if all you are greasing is one Defender. If however you have big playthings with lots of nipples they come into their own (mind you the grease bill also racks up fairly quickly). 
Click image to enlarge |
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7th Mar 2024 3:51pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2027
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I do love that somewhat bemused look on your green cranes face Blackwolf
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7th Mar 2024 5:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17427
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Yes, it's a quirky little fella.
It looks better now it has its original 1961 registration number back on a black and silver plate instead of the ghastly Q-plate. Last edited by blackwolf on 7th Mar 2024 5:50pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Mar 2024 5:48pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Gal Dove
If / when it's replacement time then Gwyn Lewis's...
Until then it is doable with 'alignment fiddling' so you can get on the end of it, depending on your gun. The Smallest of these is for me my favorite, my granddads so probably 60+ years old... Click image to enlarge Loading easy... Click image to enlarge I have the Defender in neutral on level ground and align the approach... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Land Rover could have done better here...  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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7th Mar 2024 5:49pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 70
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Hi S4SKP.
Many thanks. My dad has previously loaned me the exact same 'mini' gun that you have from the 60's! I was never really sure whether I did the job adequately so I've now borrowed one of his full sized ones that's probably a few years younger! So it's a case of putting the car in neutral & getting the prop in to an accessible position then! I'll give it a go. |
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7th Mar 2024 5:57pm |
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