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rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 777 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That empty threaded hole would be perfect for a permanent live feed... Don't forget to fuse your new circuits ๐๐ป
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20591 ![]() ![]() |
As above, I seem to remember that thread is M8, but donโt quote me on that exactly. Play Stupid Games, Win Stupid Prizes.
Big Brother is Watching. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: East Sussex Posts: 41 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Cheers guys. That was what I was hoping. There are in-bumper DRLs so the live to the battery needs to have an in-line fuse near to the battery end?
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TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1121 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
At or as close as possible to the battery terminal. Any part "upstream" of the fuse will evoprate in case of short circuit.
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20591 ![]() ![]() |
Exactly as above, typical rule of thumb is no more than 20โ from power source aka the live battery post in this case.
Probably for your purpose around 6โ in-line is fine. (In-line ATO fuse holder is ideal). Just make sure the fuse is rated above the current load, but below the max wire current rating. Probably a 5A fuse is okay for low loads live LEDs. Something like 1mm2 automotive thinwall would be sufficient in some 6mm internal dia split convoluted tube maybe, or in unsplit tubing if you want a challenge to get it threaded through. Play Stupid Games, Win Stupid Prizes. Big Brother is Watching. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1440 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The Blue Sea terminal post fuse holder 5023 is a great way to add upto 4 fused cricuits, directly to the terminal / mega fuse holder.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5023/ST_B...Fuse_Block No drilling to mount the fuse block. No wires from battery to fuse. Compact and tidy. 3 spare fuse positions below, ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2109 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Now that IS neat
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20591 ![]() ![]() |
That is nice, my set up is a bit different, but, for the OPโs purpose that would be ideal.
Nice and safe too. ![]() Big Brother is Watching. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: East Sussex Posts: 41 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
What is particularly neat is I have that battery and the Blue Sea Fuse block. I was struggling with the planning of where it could go and see you have sensibly switched the positions on the positive so it has clear space for the block to sit! Excellent. Assume on the neg I can actually remove the nut and place the ring below, then refasten. 2001 Defender Special Vehicles TD5 Hardtop (Ex Scottish & Southern) Side Lockers, Side Hatches - Poorly chassis and bulkhead. (SORNd) 2013 Defender Puma Utility XS |
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Dorothy Member Since: 14 Sep 2020 Location: East Sussex Posts: 41 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Do love the Russian Roulette nature of owning a newer Landy, sold to me by someone who, let's say, 'possibly wasn't aware of a number of issues with the vehicle...'.
Re-connected the rear spotlight only to get some speaker interference from the Focal Tweeters. Wiring is quite close. An inspection of the high level rear stop light found three of the tabs disconnected. ![]() Onwards! 2001 Defender Special Vehicles TD5 Hardtop (Ex Scottish & Southern) Side Lockers, Side Hatches - Poorly chassis and bulkhead. (SORNd) 2013 Defender Puma Utility XS |
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DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1440 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If I recall correctly, the nut on the battery terminal is conical and clamps the terminal, making it difficult to add rings. I've got one single, light duty, negative to the terminal. The ring sits on top of the original nut and is held by another nut on the top. All other added negatives go directly to the chassis or body. I'd be reluctant to add more circuits or a heavier duty one directly to the battery, it's a bad design as it is and doesn't clamp well. Chopping the terminal off and fitting a normal type would be one option, but it's easier to add a negative bus bar inside the seat box and connect that to the chassis ground point. ![]() |
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mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2926 ![]() |
Do Mobile Centre stock these? Cant find it on the website. Andy 2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1440 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Mobile Centre website has 5024, a kit with fuse holder and bus bar.
mudstuff.co.uk has the separate fuse holder 5023 and kit 5024. |
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mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2926 ![]() |
Perfect, ordered the kit from MC. Thanks Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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