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excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5866

1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

After a few months with the Bison ram, I found that if I park on a slope the rear door closes with the weight of the spare wheel.
It does the job for me, but I still have to alter the door card to fit around the bracket that is mounted on the rear door. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

4th Mar 2024 9:22am

mcma1

Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 2904

Bluest wrote:
mcma1 wrote:
I have the mud stuff kit and I don’t like it. It would throw the door open if you don’t stop it. Can these be adjusted at all? Also takes too much effort to close.

I’ve got the Mud one and it doesn’t do that. It slows just before it gets to full extension. It can take quite a bit of effort to overcome the strut to close the door when parked up hill though.

I checked and my kit definitely does not slow! Overtime something would break so I will have to find a solution. Emailed Mud to ask what is normal... Andy

2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233

2014 Corris 110 SW
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html

My old Xtech 90 build..
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html

LS3 V8 build...
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html

4th Mar 2024 7:58pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4223

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

I'll try and video mine next time I'm out with it. I vaguely remember there was more than one revision to the Mud one. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

4th Mar 2024 8:24pm

hamzasikveli

Member Since: 05 Mar 2024
Location: Hannover
Posts: 1

Thanks for information

5th Mar 2024 8:36am

steveww

Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 571

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green

I have one from Mud and it definitely slows as the door reaches fully open.

5th Mar 2024 3:34pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20516

Be very careful when drilling the door frame prior to riveting, just a word of warning.
As it’s all too easy to go through the outer door skin on the other side, especially if you happen to have a dull drill bit.
Though they can be a little more brittle, I’d go for a brand new HSS Cobalt drill bit, and use tape or a depth stop to ensure it goes though just enough.
The steel that the door frame is made of is good quality, it does take a little drilling through but when it does the bit can go straight out the other side and the door skin wouldn’t take much at all to pierce and it is quite close behind. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

5th Mar 2024 3:34pm

mcma1

Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 2904

I drilled through a small piece of timber first to just expose 5mm of the drill bit as I was concerned of the drill jumping ahead.

Anyway we can blame Charlie for my mistake fitting the strut the wrong way around, although it does appear to slow for him in the video.

I have it reversed and it is now behaving correctly.

Andy

2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233

2014 Corris 110 SW
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html

My old Xtech 90 build..
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html

LS3 V8 build...
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html

5th Mar 2024 3:40pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20516

MCMA - Yes, that’s a good idea using a bit of wood for the drill bit.
On that video, the gas stout on mine is opposite to that in the video, as I found the larger barrel of the gas strut would clash with the door frame, instead on mine the piston rod (silver) type part attaches to the LR tub body.
Also, I seem to remember, I didn’t get one of those brackets that attaches to the tub, or it didn’t fit one of the two.
And the fixing nearest the tub, had the hex head cap screw in from the top, against the bracket, with the piston pivot just blow the bracket, and then with the nyloc nut at the bottom, using the existing bracket. Keep it nicely lubed too, funny enough I did that just today.
It was very strong at first, but it settled down 6 months later.
I set it so the spare wheel just cleared by about 1/2” the rear body cappings, so it didn’t hit it when fully opening.

Have the new gas struts got a soft opening now, I.e hands free?’I think mine would open quite harsh on its max travel. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

5th Mar 2024 8:58pm

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