↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Puma (Tdci) > won't start and no horn, completely stumped!
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 2 of 2 <12
Print this entire topic · 
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314
United Kingdom 
Might sound a bit simplistic, but press the lock or unlock multiple times rapidly, until the dash LED flashes rapidly.
Once it shows down to normal flash rate, press unlock and then start it.

Whenever you go to start it the red LED dash light must be flashing, which is why it’s common to press unlock to disarm even if it’s already unlocked prior to starting.

You have to do this after the battery is reconnected after disconnection each time to sync.
And if you have a battery backed up alarm sounder there the procedure to deactivate first also.

If the immobiliser is armed, and it’s started it will kill the engine immediately or stop it starting all together.
Bearing in mind the battery needs to be at least 12.6v at rest also, definitely not lower than 12v prior to starting.
There is then the possibility the starter is dead also. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1023678 5th Feb 2024 5:23pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattlt



Member Since: 28 Nov 2023
Location: Corsavy
Posts: 11
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Hi Ianh, thanks for that..

Yes I am tempted to get it back and have another go. As I understand it on the 2.2 versions that shunt is already in place on the IPAC from the factory?

As this problem appeared when I started messing around in the area of the AS10 unit to fix the horn, it really could just be a bad connection I guess.

I would also like to get the AS10 checked although I would also love to be rid of it!! Thanks for the link I have sent Paul an email.

Thanks again for your time.

Matt
Post #1023680 5th Feb 2024 5:29pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314
United Kingdom 
It could be water in the connector too, it has happened before ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1023681 5th Feb 2024 5:35pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattlt



Member Since: 28 Nov 2023
Location: Corsavy
Posts: 11
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Thanks custom90steve.

I'm thinking to just get it back and have another go at this. I wish it was water in there, we are in a major drought here and it hasn't rained in ages. However it is a Land Rover!

Thanks again.
Post #1023683 5th Feb 2024 5:42pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1995
United Kingdom 
mattlt wrote:
Hi Ianh, thanks for that..

Yes I am tempted to get it back and have another go. As I understand it on the 2.2 versions that shunt is already in place on the IPAC from the factory?

As this problem appeared when I started messing around in the area of the AS10 unit to fix the horn, it really could just be a bad connection I guess.

I would also like to get the AS10 checked although I would also love to be rid of it!! Thanks for the link I have sent Paul an email.

Thanks again for your time.

Matt


Yes on the 2.2 the wiring goes direct to the ECU as well as the IPAC.

Where you have been working on the horn is much closer to the IPAC connector than the 10AS connectors, you may well have disturbed the IPAC connector, hence you may as well disconnect it, bridge pins 3 and 4 and while the connector is disconnected from the IPAC see if the engine will start.

If it does then remove the pin bridge and reconnect the connector to the IPAC and try the ignition again.

You can also look at the 10AS and connectors, in a RHD vehicle it’s behind the driver footwell speaker, it may have been relocated to be behind the Driver footwell speaker in the LHD vehicles as well.
Post #1023686 5th Feb 2024 6:14pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6604
United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Immobiliser line doesn’t go to the instrument pack at all on the 2.2  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #1023688 5th Feb 2024 6:20pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It may not help much given the new problems you are having with starting, but regarding the original horn problem are you sure it is the main vehicle horns you heard beep rather than an alarm sounder? A Defender should have either a battery-backed alarm sounder (BBUS, a factory option which later became standard) or a basic alarm sounder, although some seem to have been built with neither. If you have either of these (behind LH headlight) it may be this you heard and both vehicle horns may be dead.

The surest way to check the horn is either with an assistant who can pinpoint the source of the beep, or by applying 12V directly to the horn after unplugging it. Defender horns are prone to failing.
Post #1023690 5th Feb 2024 6:33pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattlt



Member Since: 28 Nov 2023
Location: Corsavy
Posts: 11
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Hi blackwolf

Haha yes the horn problem is secondary at the moment but still there... I didn't know there could be a secondary sounder unit. After all the messing about I took the fact that when I set the alarm I was hearing the horns, therefore not a problem with the horn unit itself.

Once I get it running again I will check this, thankyou!
Post #1023697 5th Feb 2024 6:51pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattlt



Member Since: 28 Nov 2023
Location: Corsavy
Posts: 11
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Hi all

Update. I got it back from the LR dealer after they quoted to replace everything at huge cost so it was back at my garage..

I contacted Pete at BAS and as I have a Gap IId he said he could do me a remap to cut out the immobilizer that I could install myself without taking the ECU out and sending it to the UK.

I went to the garage this morning, sent the config to Pete from the Gap mobile app who immediately did the magic, I updated my IId with my laptop in the carpark, plugged it back into the truck and flashed the ECU. Pete told me that sometimes you need a negative wire to the starter relay and as soon as we added that, it started. I only wish I'd left it at Land Rover and done it in their forecourt Smile

So now I can go and collect it and will bring it back and try and get the horn working for the MOT!!

Thanks so much for all your help and I really can't recommend BAS highly enough!
Post #1024487 12th Feb 2024 3:09pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Pete Bell at BAS is definitely one of the best of the good guys! Thumbs Up
Post #1024495 12th Feb 2024 3:58pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattlt



Member Since: 28 Nov 2023
Location: Corsavy
Posts: 11
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Hi all

Got the defender back, starts fine now!

Looking at the horn problem, when I trigger the alarm, both horns (by headlights) sound. So guessing I don't have the independent sounder. However, horn doesn't work from the instrument stick (which is new).

So seemingly I still have something strange going on.
Post #1024801 15th Feb 2024 3:06pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattlt



Member Since: 28 Nov 2023
Location: Corsavy
Posts: 11
France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey
Final update.

All is fixed. Starts reliably, alarm still works in that if armed it goes off if a door is opened (Strangely indicators don't flash any more but the dash red indicator light does).

I noticed the horn AND the full beam flash were not working and looking at the wiring diagram these were fed by a single wire from the under seat fuse box. On removing this discovered that the wire leaving the fuse box was completely disconnected!

So all is working and I know a lot more about how it works now.

I hope my experience will help others and thanks again to all those who took the time to offer help. MUCH appreciated!
Post #1025011 17th Feb 2024 4:43pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20314
United Kingdom 
That’s good news. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1025015 17th Feb 2024 5:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 2 of 2 <12
All times are GMT

Jump to  
<  Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums