 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Hole under rear door |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414   
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I had a damaged 90 tub that was scrap, but thought I would salvage a few part off it. That aluminium section was on of them, and it put a big fight to get it off. There are a lot of spot welds to the floor and quarter panels. If that is the only damage, I think it would be easier if you can get someone to tig weld a patch flush to the rest.
Take care of the galvanic corrosion that is ongoing between the steel and the aluminuim. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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11th Feb 2024 10:11am |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1579  
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How would you stop it getting worse.
The paint shop are sorting the other bits such as windscreen but didn’t like the look of this and haven’t offered to sort it. Mines has been particularly bad. The panel under the rear seats is going the same way. |
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11th Feb 2024 10:15am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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Best way to stop galvanic corrosion is to electrically isolate the 2 metals. Painting between the metals is good, putting a plastic barrier is even better. Remember also the washers/screws/bolts. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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11th Feb 2024 10:59am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
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I was helping a friend do some refurb work on his car recently, and he had that corrosion in a couple of places (there are 5 of those fixing along the back of the car).
I cleaned everything up as best I could and then cut some thin PVC sheet to form gaskets between the steel and the aluminium channel/bodywork. These fixings are through brackets on the top of the rear crossmember - it’s what the body is bolted onto in the first place. I needed to slot my gaskets in between the alu. and steel. On a 110, with the fuel tank at the rear, the access to these is much more awkward. On a 90 with the tank under the driver’s seat it’s much easier. But I think maybe newer 90s have the tank under the boot floor as well. Might still be able to wiggle a gasket into place from outside though. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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11th Feb 2024 11:34am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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It is also important to periodically clean the area from mud accumulation. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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11th Feb 2024 11:48am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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100%.
Just a little bit off topic but reading that suggestion about cleaning away mud it’s just occurred to me….. On my friend’s car, just above where these crossmember fixings go, there is a strong, aluminium channel, mounted as a U shape - open to the top, closed at the bottom. A ridiculously effective mud trap. I haven’t checked this in my own car, but is it possible that the guy who last worked on my friend’s car fitted this the wrong way round?? Other aspect of his “restoration” were pretty questionable, so I wouldn’t be surprised. Given what LRs are supposed to do, and where they go, it seems really daft to have a thing like this set up to catch crud at the back of the car. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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11th Feb 2024 12:17pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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An easy source of thin plastic is the plastic milk containers that we put into our recycling every day. Thin, tough, easily cut,and available!
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12th Feb 2024 6:42am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1040  
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 Click image to enlarge This is what that strip looks like on the inside as was said, it is spot welded in various locations and not easy to extract. It is pretty thick which makes welding it up feasible. Other than all the various preservations, cleaning is most important |
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12th Feb 2024 2:05pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1579
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Yeah looks very tricky. Looking like it will end up a big job.
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13th Feb 2024 5:15pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666  
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Yes I try and get the hose in behind there when cleaning to stop muck buildup. At lease once a year I also remove all the bolts across the rear and spray between all the parts with AFC50. I also spray Bilt Hamber dynaxS50 with long injection lance though the holes to try and coat behind. |
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13th Feb 2024 5:23pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1579
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I’ve blasted the crossmember internally a lot. Even repainted a few times. I seem to have lots of bits of corrosion on the body. Even some inside.
Having it all sorted but worried it will just come back. Landrover did the windscreen twice under warranty. Once having it for a month 🙄 |
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13th Feb 2024 8:46pm |
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