Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Trucklite LED Headlights - strange |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359 |
Unplug the dim dip resistor if present, then you’ll have normal functioning dipped and main.
You can have a sidelight but only if the headlights have the feature and a piggyback loom from the upper sidelights, not all LED headlights have sidelight though. It’s likely the dim dip resistor that’s the issue here. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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18th Jan 2024 12:44pm |
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Cwe1941 Member Since: 08 Mar 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 34 |
Heroic - thank you. I have managed to find an earlier topic referring to it too, very helpful.
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18th Jan 2024 4:56pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359 |
Blackwolf on here told me about it previously, otherwise I wouldn’t have known either, it’s a difficult thing to actually find. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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18th Jan 2024 7:02pm |
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Notyalc Member Since: 27 Jul 2018 Location: Northumberland Posts: 161 |
Just find the plug on the resistor under the drivers wing and pull it off.
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18th Jan 2024 8:18pm |
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DICKO1995 Member Since: 02 Feb 2024 Location: High Peak Posts: 10 |
Hi,
I think I’m having a similar problem: Click image to enlarge I’m having a nightmare with fitting Wipac led headlights, should be plug and play but not that simple (for me anyway) So my problem is that I have power to the headlights but only seem to have a low beam. With one push forward on the stalk the low beam comes on, when pressing the stalk forward again nothing changes, as if the main driving beam is not working. The full beam/flash is working and so are the DRL’s which are wired to the led sidelights. I’ll attach a photo of the Wipac fitting instructions. The main beam does work when the brown wire (main beam) and the green wire (dipped) are touching each other with the earth plugged into the connector. So i know that the main beam does actually work but once the wires are put into the connector and connected to the car I only have a small beam of light for both clicks of the stalk. Any help on this would be great. Could be me being stupid Laughing Cheers |
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2nd Feb 2024 10:36am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382 |
You almost certainly are having the same problem, however it would be strange to find dim-dip on a CSW (Assuming you have the correct avatar).
Check under the o/s wing in the vicinity of the radio aerial for a dim-dip resistor and if you find one, unplug it. If you don't find one, let us know. There are many, many threads where this problem has been discussed. And please don't post exactly the same post in five separate threads on the forum (especially irrelevant ones) , it isn't necessary and is liable to make folk grumpy and less inclined to help! |
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2nd Feb 2024 10:54am |
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DICKO1995 Member Since: 02 Feb 2024 Location: High Peak Posts: 10 |
Apologies Blackwolf and I appreciate the reply.
Yeah the avatar is wrong should be correct now, must have pressed the wrong one on the drop-down menu Apologies for posting multiple was not sure how it works. My bad. I will have a look where you have suggested, hopefully find the problem. Will let you know. Thanks again |
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2nd Feb 2024 11:29am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382 |
No probs. A standard HT of that era will have dim-dip, it was fitted to the "commercial" variants but the non-commercial types had a headlamp adjuster knob on the centre dash instead.
The resistor should, as I say, be inside the RH front wing in the area of the radio aerial. It is almost impossible to see without the help of a small mirror, but the connector can be unplugged easily enough (it is a latching connector, of course) an this will disable the dim-dip system completely in the easiest possible way. You will find people who say that you should remove the dip-dip relay (in the fuse/relay panel over the drivers right knee) but this is a more complex and generally unnecessary approach. If you are unaware of the useless and half-witted dim-dip idea, it was a UK Government brainwave to make cars safer, which meant that with the sidelights on and the engine running a reduced voltage was automatically fed to the dip beam filament in the headlights. Quite how this improved safety is anyone's guess. In practice all it did was massively shorten the life expectancy of the headlamp bulb, since it is damaging to run a halogen bulb "cold". Fortunately one of the only useful things the EU did for us was to rule that the UK Govt acted illegally in making dim-dip a legal requirement, and therefore it ceased to be a requirement although one or two manufacturers including Land-Rover, kept on doing it. As you have found, it completely messes up LED units. Let us know how you get on, feedback is always good. |
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2nd Feb 2024 12:31pm |
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DICKO1995 Member Since: 02 Feb 2024 Location: High Peak Posts: 10 |
Thanks for the explanation Blackwolf should be a great help and should hopefully get my light system working properly!
Yes mine is a commercial variant so hopefully it turns out to be what you say it is. I had seen a lot surrounding the relay but didn’t want to start messing with that. Will post progress asap |
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2nd Feb 2024 1:37pm |
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DICKO1995 Member Since: 02 Feb 2024 Location: High Peak Posts: 10 |
Think that’s sorted it.
I know have - One click with the stalk turns on the DRL’s and Sidelights and the second click turns on the main beam (not very bright unfortunately) and still got flash Thanks Blackwolf, great help. I’ll have to see if I can get some more brightness out of the headlights now, or maybe it’s how bright the Wipac should be… First click of stalk: Click image to enlarge Second click of stalk: Click image to enlarge Full beam: Click image to enlarge |
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2nd Feb 2024 3:14pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382 |
I think that's what to expect, the first position is side plus halo, the second is dip, the third is main.
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2nd Feb 2024 4:29pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359 |
LED headlights only go so far in performance as any, the main advantage are the lower current draw, more waterproofed and reliable and a crisper white light.
Though the beam cut off is more sharp, and less scattered than standard. You need to then add some spotlights or LED light bar for main beam if you wanted to, they will definitely be what you are looking for. In the mean time, if you haven’t already fit some stainless headlight retaining rings and fixings. Once that’s done, which you probably have ensure they are aligned correctly. You will be able to do a good job yourself, but come MOT time you may need them adjusting. If the MOT technician is good to you they may do it for you, but you still may get “headlight aim to high” or “headlight aim too low”. I’d suggest you go to somewhere like Halfords, save yourself the trouble and ask them if they can just do a basic spec MOT style headlight alignment of which they have the headlight beam alignment equipment there anyway. That’s what I did, only paid £10 and then come MOT time all was perfect anyway that way. But it’s up to you, the trouble is if the alignment is out you’ll have poor performance anyway and could well be in other drivers eyes as well. You can do a pretty good job of it at home against a wall or garage door or sow thing though as well, it depends if that’s an option for you. Just something to bear in mind. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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2nd Feb 2024 4:39pm |
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