 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Boosts on Puma don't seem to fit |
 
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1601  
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assume you have the correct alloy wheel nuts for the wheel?
ar the wheels genuine ones? have they been refurbished (as powder coat adds thickness more than paint) and sometimes the half shaft flange nuts just need a tweak to put the flats outards. |
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27th Jan 2024 5:46pm |
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| steveyorks Member Since: 08 Apr 2013 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 181  
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Genuine wheels that I rubbed down and painted and with the proper LR nuts that came with them. You may be right with the drive shaft nuts. I just wondered if the fit was that tight or if anyone had experienced the same? Very annoying I was all geared up and giddy!
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27th Jan 2024 5:54pm |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1601
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ping a picture of the wheels and hub when you get a minute up here and we can have look
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27th Jan 2024 5:56pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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Do you have standard drive members? Some aftermarket DMs will cause similar problem. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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28th Jan 2024 12:22am |
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| steveyorks Member Since: 08 Apr 2013 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 181
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I would imagine I do. The vehicle was owned by the Council before me and everything fitted is genuine Land Rover, even the checker plate kit. I suppose my alternative is to sell the Boosts and put some different tyres on the steel wheels but I dont know if I can get 235's on the rims.
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28th Jan 2024 10:31am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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A picture of the wheel hub, even with the steelies on, will help to see the problem. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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28th Jan 2024 10:53am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387 
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Boosts definitely fit on standard hubs so either there's something non-standard or something's happening to confuse you. Either way, photos of the hub and ideally the inside face of the Boost should enable diagnosis.
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28th Jan 2024 11:49am |
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| steveyorks Member Since: 08 Apr 2013 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 181
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28th Jan 2024 12:54pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20381
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Is there some kind of extra thick gasket between the DM and hub there?
There should only be a lightly greased paper gasket between the two. Are you completely sure they are genuine boosts and not copy’s? I know that copies do exist, which is why unusually low prices exist on some listings. But if they are genuine, then they must be, so long as they aren’t passed off as genuine. Perhaps you can take internal measurements, and compare with someone who has them, and the hub. I’m sure someone on here probably has a wheel off right now or can do to compare. What size spanner fits the DM bolts? Perhaps sone aftermarket ones were fitted that weren’t quite correct in the past. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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28th Jan 2024 1:12pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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If you clean the hub well, paying particular attention to the outside face of the bit the drive flange is bolted to, the angle between this and the hub mating face, and to the lobes of the drive flange I reckon your wheels will fit. There are intended to be located by having a close fit between the listed areas and the inside of the wheel, so also check the inside face of the wheel for damage.
I reckon your problem is simply a paint, rust, and grime issue, and a bit of cleaning (and a smear of copper grease on the locating and mating faces) and you will be sorted. There is nothing non-standard there, expect possibly for the amount of paint and absence of rust. By the way, you are missing the rubber or plastic dust cap that should be fitted over the end of the halfshaft and circlip. |
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28th Jan 2024 1:28pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20381
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Mine was missing those end caps before I fitted the Ashcroft DM’s, I do not ever remember having caps present. At least I had not lost them.
Makes me wonder if they were actually fitted at all, seeing as they are hidden behind alloys. Not having some protection there, means more wear and also getting dry as well and increased fretting. Eventually leading to some human fretting in the event of failure  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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28th Jan 2024 1:42pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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Boosts with original factory finish have no paint on the mating surfaces and inside the part which sits on the hub/drive member.
Refurbed wheels typically get paint/power coat over everything. You probably need to clean up the inside of the wheel around where it fits over the drive flange to get the correct clearance back. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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28th Jan 2024 3:23pm |
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| steveyorks Member Since: 08 Apr 2013 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 181
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All excellent news then and a job for next weekend, thank you everyone for your input. It did have the rubber caps fitted but I took them off to see what was going on and if they could have been the issue. I will update once I have had a go next weekend and thanks again.
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28th Jan 2024 5:35pm |
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| steveyorks Member Since: 08 Apr 2013 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 181
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All done, took a l
ot of pressure and cleaning but what do you think? Drives so much better and quieter Last edited by steveyorks on 3rd Feb 2024 3:53pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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3rd Feb 2024 3:49pm |
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