 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 110 TD4 2.2. 2013 Clutch failure ?? |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382   
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Don't worry, I am sure that there will be plenty more failures to look forward to! It's all part of the Defender ownership experience!
Good to hear of another fairly high-mileage Defender still on its original output adaptor shaft. I'm surprised however that your front diff hasn't failed yet, this suggests your vehicle has had a fairly easy life (or is one of the very few which was actually built with a four-gear diff). |
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14th Jan 2024 1:03pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2001
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I suspect his 225 is Kilometres not miles... so only ! 140k miles. ( not close to your miles BW) Even still thats good for the output adapter shaft.
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14th Jan 2024 1:21pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44  
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Easy live… hmmm…. do not think so. Drove to India, this year to Georgia and actually had a 360 when I let someone else drive….
And as fully fledged camper with ExTec hard sidewalls popup roof it weighs about 2.8t B |
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14th Jan 2024 1:24pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2001
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If that’s 225k KM’s on the original clutch, with that extra weight and on challenging roads then it’s done well.
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14th Jan 2024 1:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382
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So has that front diff!
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14th Jan 2024 1:52pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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So, new Clutch. Which one should I get? Original, Sachs or the Clutchfix HD one?
B |
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15th Jan 2024 8:16pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20367
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SACHS in mine, bought from Autodoc which I believe is in Germany.
It is for the Transit 4x4 and fits the MT82 Transmission. I didn’t have any good luck with the Genuine one… $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 19th Jan 2024 6:49pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th Jan 2024 8:30pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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Well. It is me again…. I was away and have not used the defender.
Today i just gave it an other go and with engine running I could change gears again. Drove quite a bit and what is clear that over time the clutch got worse again. Still able to get in to 1-6, with esp. 2 being the one where i have tu use more force then for the other ones. Reverse at first was fine, at the end no chance. So, from that I would say it is not the clutch itself. It must be something on the hydraulic side. So what could it be. I cannot see a leak etc. My guess would be that as we had tad frost for the last 3 weeks here in Germany that maybe the hydraulic oil got “bad”. Any ideas? It’s weekend, finally some good weather so i could give it a go… B |
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19th Jan 2024 6:42pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20367
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It could be the slave internal, of which you’d need a new clutch anyway, it’s more likely to be a clutch spring that has came out.
You can change your master cylinder and see if that does the trick, but if not then it will be above and a new slave and clutch would be needed. With the slave cylinder or a new clutch, in both cases both need replacing at the same time and in the process the transmission has to come out to fit a new slave and clutch. The flywheel usually is fine in most cases. Replacing the master cylinder and bleeding it is the only thing you can external to the transmission housing. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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19th Jan 2024 6:51pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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OK, bleeding a Defender TD4 clutch i give it a try first before a full replacement. Is there an easy way /a how to do? Vacuum Pump is available
B |
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19th Jan 2024 7:28pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 515
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I do hope a bleed sorts it but when mine started playing up and hard to get into gear I did think hydraulics, but in the end just decided to replace clutch. Slave and master..
When I got to the clutch one of the springs just fell out as I removed it.. So that was most probably my issue.. On the bleeding... The bleed nipple is a pain to get at easily until you get used to reaching up.. Its a plastic fitting and requires a half turn to open it.. There isn't a lot of room for spanners.. I made up a little gadget that could be slipped on to the flats and is easily rotated to open and close the bleed.. Worth the bother making one  Click image to enlarge On the actual bleeding.. Fit a bit tubing to the nipple and route it up before bringing it fown into a container.. That way when you pump the fluid through you will have a little head of fluid above the bleed nipple in the hose.. It saves having to have someone shut it off when you finish pumping.. The other thing you need to make sure of is you are actually displacing fluid when you push the pedal.. It can be airlocked if you have had it apart, so put a rag under the master and crack the outlet joint until you see the level in the reservoir dropping when you pump.. Once you are Def moving fluid nip it up and you will need to top the fluid every 4/5pumps.... After a few reservoir fulls shut the bleed and you should have a good pedal👍 |
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19th Jan 2024 7:53pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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Well, i would give it a try as my Defender runs very smoothly. No rattling, no transmissions noise, no nothing, even the gearstick doesn’t move when running. Don’t ask how it does it at 225k, but…
I was thinking of just doing a reverse, i.e. open the Clutch fluid reservoirs, place the tube off the vacuum pump and like: ?si=iqvHd8jSsfb5I6xI But it seems thats not the Defender way. B |
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19th Jan 2024 8:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20367
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Ah yes, that bleed nipple is a bit of a pain and got to be careful with it, it could be fragile so handle with care.
Good idea making a little tool for it, I used a stubby spanner on the flats using the open end of the spanner, with just enough room. I very much hoped it was a MC failure, but in the end it was a new clutch needed due to spring coming out… It’s the loose spring that’s came out of the friction plate that blocks the gear selection, probably by blocking the clutch plates preventing getting in gear. Which is why it works fine sometimes, but not others, I found it would happen after coming to a stop at a junction or roundabout or similar. Go to go back in gear from neutral and … can’t select first. So far, it seems like it’s the Gen LR clutch that seems to have these problems with clutch springs, and it seems that they are often replaced because of the springs rather than being worn out. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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19th Jan 2024 8:11pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 515
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That video is way over complicating a simple process.. As I said just make sure you are displacing fluid when you depress the pedal..
You could use a pressure bleeder, but I've never found that necessary on the defender.. The slave cylinder only has one inlet so relies on any air in there making its way up to the bleed nipple.. Give it a chance to do that if you are having bother.. Fill the reservoir, leave the bleed open and the reservoir cap off..and let gravity do a bit.. The fluid level should drop slowly.. |
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19th Jan 2024 8:29pm |
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