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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2415   
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Check ground connections at the chassis and transfer case.
Check voltaje drop while cranking it. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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19th Dec 2023 5:27pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782  
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IIRC you are using / losing a lot of coolant, please make sure its not seeping into the cylinder and its hydraulically locking - possibly disconnect the injectors and remove the glow plugs then crank it over?
Or maybe just check its not steaming out of the exhaust when running Perhaps one of the very knowledgeable peeps on here can advise better / further? HTH Keith |
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19th Dec 2023 7:00pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 896  
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Could be a faulty starter.
The starter on our 2.2 failed recently. The only warning it gave was it failed to turn over in a car park in the summer, but was fine on the second attempt. A few weeks later I went to drive it and the click from the solenoid was all that happened, nothing else. No matter how many times I cycled the ignition or struck the starter with a hammer, it would not spin over. A new starter resolved the issue. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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20th Dec 2023 9:07am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17380 
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This does seem to be a Puma "thing". All the time since I bought mine, it has randomly and fairly infrequently behaved as though it has a nearly flat battery. It would either crank incredibly slowly or juct click and not crank. Leave it a few minutes and it would be fine, all very strange. Eventually is started to get more frequent, so I replaced both the battery and the starter and for a few months everything was fine. Now it is starting to do exactly the same thing again. The two relays involved in the started circuit have also been replaced, and the earth connections on my Defender are exceptionally good (I beefed them all up when I fitted the winch (all the major components are earthed with 50mm^2 copper with two separate connections to the battery). I can't see that it is a switch issue since the switch must be energising the starter relay, and I can only conclude that it is a solenoid issue and I am just unlucky in having the (new genuine) starter begin to mimic the old starter after such a short time.  |
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20th Dec 2023 10:13am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2415
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Same here, although original starter and new battery. Locking and unlocking does the trick, however I do not really understand how it is related, if at all. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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20th Dec 2023 10:19am |
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| neirbossor Member Since: 10 Jun 2021 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 23  
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Its a strange fault, started no problem today but last night I took the bins down to the bottom of the road and it refused to start, much punching and swearing involved and it finally sprung to life. I have a suspected head leak as well so starting issue has gone down the list of worries.
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20th Dec 2023 5:58pm |
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| neirbossor Member Since: 10 Jun 2021 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 23
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[Above coolant issue resolved and starter/main relays changed out]
Went to start it today and it started on first turn of the key. It then stalled and wouldn't re-start (it was cranking fine). I eventually got it going but it was super lumpy, a bit of knocking and the accelerator was unresponsive, I kept it running and once warmed up was totally fine. No DTC codes picked up, does this sound like classic VCV? I have ordered one anyway just as a precaution. |
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10th Jan 2024 9:48am |
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| neirbossor Member Since: 10 Jun 2021 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 23
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Changed the ignition barrel switch and seems to have solved the intermittent starting issue! by some stroke of luck it looks like the previous owner had already changed it at some point as the bolts had already been drilled out and replaced with cap heads. First luck i've had since I took ownership, I was all ready to start ripping the dash out till I realised.
Also purchased a new VCV, sitting in a box in the garage, just trying to summon the will to change it now. |
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15th Jan 2024 3:52pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20359
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Sounds like the battery voltage was too low - how old is it? It should be at 12.6v at rest.
It shouldn’t go too low except for actual cranking. (Which on cranking a 9v dip could be expected). Is the battery clamps tight? When it’s running the alternator should be putting out at least 13.8v to 14.8v to ensure a proper battery charge. Usually these things are a loose connection, especially main ground, loose battery clamps or a failed or failing battery. These have been the issues I’ve had, not had any probables with the starter or ignition at all. A bad VCV can make starting not so good, and harder to crank but normally causes cutting out once running but it can be part of it. When mine went it would start but cut out not long after, rough idle / Rev hunting is a good sign of a failing VCV and lack of power in 5th or 6th gear. So yes, VCV is a good starting point and see how it goes, but keep an eye on the battery voltage especially if it’s many years old. If the battery voltage keeps sinking low at rest by its self then that might be a sign to get a new one. Worth checking for parasitic load too and moisture in light fittings, anything over 60mA current at rest I’d say is rather unusual. If it exceeds 120mA then I’d definitely look at parasitic load via a constant live circuit. I have had water get into the interior light fitting drawing a small current draw between the contacts draining the batttery, then causing further issues from that, and not easy to find either. I dried it out, used a little silicon grease on the tracks contacts and then put it back. After all the wet weather you never know. I guess a new non genuine interior light fitting may be a better option, though I’ve only had it happen once. The difficulty is, it’s not easy to find it as being the culprit but it will draw the battery capacity down… Good luck.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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15th Jan 2024 8:06pm |
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