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| Daveish Member Since: 05 Dec 2023 Location: South Wales Posts: 8   
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Did you get round to doing this? I'm about to do the same, no AC either. Mine has swollen quite badly at the bottom so it's days are numbered.
I'm wondering what other potential parts I might need other than the radiator. Thought I might do the auxiliary belt while I've got the access but other than that, not sure if there's going to be anything else I'll need. |
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7th Dec 2023 11:49pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1972 
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Removing radiator hoses allows you to remove the lower cowl. This helps in checking the intercooler hose from the turbo to see if it’s in good condition, or to make replacement with a silicon hose easier.
It also makes removing the airbox off the bottom and side rubber mountings easier so you can grease them with rubber grease to aid removal in the future. While the radiator is removed you can have a good look at the intercooler , especially at the left and right crimped seams to see if their is any soot or expansion. These tend to fail at some point. Changing the other intercooler hose for a silicon one is also a bit easier with the radiator removed. Regarding a replacement radiator, the Nissens ones are good, probably better than the gen LR one and reasonably priced. Regarding coolant, Delo XLC is the orange coolant that LR and ford use and rebadge as their own. Regarding draining, filling and bleeding air once filled . There are set procedures to do so. A search on here will highlight topics that cover these. |
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8th Dec 2023 1:36am |
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| SilverPuma Member Since: 27 Oct 2023 Location: Devon Posts: 35 
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Hadn’t yet started mine so this is very useful thanks. I did also buy a viscous fan removal tool (basically just a huge spanner) to assist with making the belt and tensioner changes easier by removing the viscous fan etc. 2010 2.4 TDCI Puma Defender 90
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8th Dec 2023 8:14am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1972
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Points to note with the fan removal.
It’s a normal thread, so anti clockwise to loosen nut. It can be very tight so spanner may need a sharp tap with a hammer to loosen the nut. I purchased a tool from Bell Auto Services (BAS) to hold the pulley in place while I used the spanner, even then I had to use half of a trolley jack handle on the breaker bar on the pulley tool and the other half of the trolley jack handle on the spanner to get sufficient torque to loosen the fan nut. BAS tool https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/defen...y-spanner/ You can make one cheaply yourself, but as I was buying the BAS intercooler and silicon hoses at the same time it was a small additional cost compared to the cost of the IC, hoses and new rad I was fitting. |
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8th Dec 2023 11:41am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1776  
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It sounds horrible but I really struggled to remove the viscous fan several years ago, special spanner, made a tool etc - no hope. Eventually in a fit of pique used a blunt chisel bit on a Makita 18v cordless SDS on the edge of a flat, it undid instantly!
The nut is harder than the chisel so hardly even gets marked by it. HTH Keith |
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8th Dec 2023 12:07pm |
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| SilverPuma Member Since: 27 Oct 2023 Location: Devon Posts: 35
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 Click image to enlarge Like you say sharp tap on the spanner end and came of nicely  2010 2.4 TDCI Puma Defender 90 |
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8th Dec 2023 2:18pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1972
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I found the draper 37536 single ended open 36mm spanner ideal as you can slot a metal tube (trolley jack handle) over it for leverage, or thwack it with a hammer, and it’s only circa £6 on line. It also has a nice thick jaw.
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8th Dec 2023 8:03pm |
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| Daveish Member Since: 05 Dec 2023 Location: South Wales Posts: 8
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Just did mine yesterday. I did order the draper spanner but it didn't arrive in time so I just used an adjustable one. I gave it a fair few whacks but it wasn't budging so I put a small wooden wedge between one of the idlers and the aux belt so I could apply some leverage to the nut and it came of easy enough.
I also changed the power steering pipes while I had good access as mine were quite badly rusted. Also a new auxiliary belt and two of the idlers which had gritty bearing noises. I had planned to put the same coolant back in as I only changed it about 6 months ago but it was a bit gritty so I opted for new. I couldn't get the usual stuff at short notice so I put some COMMA G30 in which I think is the same specification. Power steering wise, I used COMMA MVCHF as it was on the shelf and is CHF11S specification, but I think I should have used COMMA EXT instead. Looking at the specification sheet, the CHF11S is a bit thinner than the EXT. I'll see how it goes for now. |
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18th Dec 2023 1:06am |
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