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TomB8

Member Since: 17 Nov 2022
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

Clutch Slave Push Rod Install - A Silly Question?

Hello again and sorry again for all the recent posts!

I took the clutch master and slave out today, lo and behold despite being ultra careful the rod came out with the slave. However, there did not appear to be a plastic clip anywhere to be found. I have looked around in the housing with an endoscope and there's nothing. So it has seemingly been running fine without for I don't know how many years and presumably someone before me managed to get the rod in there without the clip.

I see a lot of people trying elaborate things to clip the rod in with the plastic clip and others saying they use chewing gum, bluetack or grease instead of the clip to hold the rod in place. I have now read hundreds of posts on this topic.

My question is, why does the rod have to go in to the fork first and then the slave slid onto it?

Out of curiosity, I put the rod in the end of the new slave and it is held in place sticking almost straight out (give of take a few mm). Surely, on the basis that the depression in the fork is pretty much in line with the centre of the hole into which the slave goes, as long as the slave and rod go in straight all will be fine.

Please someone tell me if I am missing something here before the rod ends up lost in the bottom of the bell housing.

12th Nov 2023 12:58am

Chicken Drumstick

Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 736

The plastic clips are naff and break or people can't figure out how to fit them. Some better clutches have a metal clip instead.

If you can get it back in ok, it will likely be fine. I'd probably put some grease or similar on the ball end as it is metal to metal contact. The risk without have the rod retained is, it could in theory fall off the fork, which would mean you'd have no clutch pedal. Trouble is, it is a big job to be able to reinstall it correctly.

12th Nov 2023 1:22pm

TomB8

Member Since: 17 Nov 2022
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

Thanks, Chicken. Are you suggesting that I put grease on the ball end and locate it in the fork, leaving the rod resting in the opening, then slide the slave onto the rod?

12th Nov 2023 1:32pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

You must have really sticky grease to do that.
Either way, if you manage to fit it without the plastic clip, and works, then I do not think the rod will ever fall off as the slave is always putting a slight pressure on the rod. So I think your idea putting the rod onto the slave first could potentially work. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

12th Nov 2023 1:51pm

TomB8

Member Since: 17 Nov 2022
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 115

Thanks, Dinnu. I do have some really sticky grease. I'm going to clean the depression on the fork and test how well the rod stays in and go from there.

If I do not manage to get everything aligned (which I am assuming I won't know until I try and actuate the clutch after bleeding) am I correct in thinking that the slave piston and rod may end up in the bowels of the bell housing?

12th Nov 2023 2:13pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

^^ Not sure if they will end up in the bottom of the flywheel cover, but I doubt.
I had once that the fork went through the pivot ball joint, and the pedal just went rock solid, as the push rod (still on the fork) was trying to push itself out through the bell housing. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

12th Nov 2023 2:23pm

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