Screbble wrote:

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That shows a steady hand  1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

Ianh wrote:

I bought a cheap short impact socket and cut it down just like you with a cutting disc in my grinder.
Then used my Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact driver and an impact extension bar. It span straight off and to my delight the taper instantly broke loose from the axle.
Also fitted the Gwyn Lewis adjustable and greaseable ball joint pre fitted in fulcrum. Took less than an hour including putting away all the tools. I guess I was lucky

Want to do mine?  Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

Grenadier wrote:

Ianh wrote:

I bought a cheap short impact socket and cut it down just like you with a cutting disc in my grinder.
Then used my Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact driver and an impact extension bar. It span straight off and to my delight the taper instantly broke loose from the axle.
Also fitted the Gwyn Lewis adjustable and greaseable ball joint pre fitted in fulcrum. Took less than an hour including putting away all the tools. I guess I was lucky

Want to do mine?

It’s a bit of a long way to go , just use plusgas on the nuts ,bolts and taper each day for a few days beforehand, get your SHORT 30mm hex impact socket in the same profile as the one above ( a cheap one is circa £6) , cut it down by a total of 5mm inc cut, no more or it there won’t be enough socket on the nut , grind a 45degree chamfer on the socket shoulder and you will find it pops in nicely on the puma welded axle bracket.
I think I used just an impact extension bar but may have used an impact universal joint as well.
If you have an impact wrench life is a lot easier but a breaker bar will do the job.

I did mine with wheels on the ground and as I said it popped out of the taper when nut span off, but some people support chassis so rear wheels are an inch or so off the ground to add additional breaking force on the taper. A sharp tap with a hammer on the welded bracket can shock it loose as well.

The two nuts on the two fulcrum bolts came off easy with the impact wrench as well and the bolts just tapped out with a gentle tap with a hammer.

I really think the plusgas ( not wd40 as it’s not a releasing fluid ) made the difference .

Another advantage of using a socket as opposed a 30mm ring spanner is you can use a torque wrench to correctly torque the new joint nut.

Screbble wrote:

Ian H stole my thunder!

Screbble wrote:

I’m still getting Ian to do it ‘next time’

You don’t need me, just a good impact wrench
once you have one you wondered how you ever managed without one. The best Christmas present I ever bought myself , it’s a Milwaukee “fuel” 18v half inch drive, not cheap but has a massive amount of torque and has four preset torque settings so you can start low and work your way up. I’ve never had to use setting four so far. Most spin off at 1 or 2 but that’s generally because I use plusgas on any fitting that looks like it could do with some releasing agent before you “swing a spanner at it.”

I don’t use it all the time as most bolts and nuts are fine with a 3/8inch or 1/2 inch ratchet, but when it comes to those more difficult large nuts or bolts it’s invaluable.

geobloke wrote:

Blimey only 3 weetabix... Just imagine what you could do with a forth or even a sprinkle of sugar on top Unstoppable...

Steady on now…with that amount of energy I may even consider taking on the wiper motor/mechanism job…