 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2010 Puma 90 clunk when changing gears |
 
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641   
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probably best to use the search function there are numerous threads and numerous causes DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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13th Aug 2023 4:39pm |
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| matchap801 Member Since: 05 Aug 2021 Location: Somerset Posts: 120 
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I had similar. Did one pice drive shafts and reduced the noise. Put on a Glynn Hopkins adjust A frame ball joint and it cured the issue. 2009 Defender 90 CSW 2.4 TDCI.
Ex Army Mechanic still living the dream. |
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13th Aug 2023 8:04pm |
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| NoLimits Member Since: 29 Dec 2022 Location: Somerset Posts: 58 
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If its just when you change gear and not when you come off or apply the throttle then it might also be the clutch
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13th Aug 2023 8:46pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17361 
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Does the clutch rattle?
Search the forum for "Puma death clutch rattle" for more information, early genuine clutches had their life expectancy measured in months not years. |
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13th Aug 2023 10:17pm |
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| Ads90 Member Since: 16 Jun 2008 Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds Posts: 809 
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I had similar and it turned out to be the A frame ball joint. Could also be the other things mentioned but maybe try that first.
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14th Aug 2023 8:36am |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78 
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I have a 110 and it’s always had a bit of clunk when I change gears in 1-3. I recently did a gear box oil change that helped but hasn’t completely removed it. I had no debris/metal in the old gearbox oil so I have just assumed it’s another one of those “defender charm” things!
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14th Aug 2023 7:32pm |
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| tristanpowter Member Since: 13 Aug 2023 Location: Newmarket Posts: 13 
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Hi all since posting I’ve had my LR specialist garage check it out with a test drive and seem to confirm likely to be output shaft.
Couple of questions, quote wise they’re suggesting around 900 plus vat including the price of Ashcroft output shaft (circa 360) is this ball park or a little on high side ? I also asked that whilst it was in and apart could they price for a clutch replace (worst case scenario flywheel and whole clutch unit) quote which came in at another 1700 plus vat! I am mechanically minded service my own etc with access to most tools but not a lift. Tempted to give it a go myself but Would this job (dropping transfer etc) be ridiculously hard without a ramp or pit !? TIA |
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14th Sep 2023 6:59pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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Are you saying they want 900 plus 1700 , ie £2600 plus vat to do output shaft and clutch . If so that’s mad pricing.
Give CSK automotive a call for a price for a lof power spec clutch and ashcroft or lof one piece output shaft supply and fitting. I expect at most it would be 1200-1500 inc vat . Ps yes you can do on drive, but will need a transmission jack, and separate the transfer box from gearbox to make things easier. Ps , why do you think you need a new flywheel, it’s not a dual mass on the 2.4 TDCI so should not need a new one. |
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14th Sep 2023 8:21pm |
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| tristanpowter Member Since: 13 Aug 2023 Location: Newmarket Posts: 13
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Yes that’s correct! Seemed mad to me , thanks yes I wondered the same thought the 2.4 was solid flywheel but they told me “some have solid some dual mass we don’t know until we take it out” which made me slightly sceptical seeing as they are a specialist.
Great I’ll check out csk as fairly local and seems far more like it ! Thanks |
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14th Sep 2023 9:16pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624  
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They’re a solid flywheel. You can do them on a pair of axles stands if you’re mechanically minded and have a good selection of tools (some long extensions and the female E/Torx sockets) not the worst job if you’re reasonably mobile/strong/fit. They’re easier to change than the old Tdi/td5 setup anyway in my opinion. They weigh about 40ish KG each. Make sure to order a crankshaft spigot bearing and the intermediate seal for the transferbox ICV100000G too.
Go and watch a few episodes of Pakistani truck on YouTube if you’re feeling hard done by  Last edited by NickMc on 14th Sep 2023 10:19pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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14th Sep 2023 10:17pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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No 2.4 or 2.2 had a dual mass flywheel ,so that would concern me re the specialist, but much more so the pricing !
CSK are a site sponsor as well, and just did my friends 2.4 110 clutch and output shaft. Plus I noted they were circa 30 miles from you so not far to go. |
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14th Sep 2023 10:17pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 512
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I have the 2.2 and just replaced the clutch so I'll give you my thoughts.. I'm working outside in a back lane and on my own except for the actual boxes been removed and put back in when I got some help..
I was doing other jobs that tied in a bit with it been off the road.. Silicone hose set for cooling system and air intake and a stainless exhaust.. Removing the front pipe is a real pain.. The engine needs to be raised to get the clearence to remove the dpf..the engine mounts are buried and need stuff removed to access them.... I'm mot sure if it has to be removed for box out.. The manuals all say it does, but I've heard that it is possible with it loosened off and still in place..and taking the boxes out separately rather than one unit I used a engine hoist through the front door with the panels removed internally.. Dropped both boxes together.. Putting them back I reckoned it best to do separately because together they are just to heavy without the right gear, and that worked well.. To put them in I used s chain hoist on the crane jib.. It saves having to Re set using Jack's... It gets a bit cramped under there with Jack's and crane feet... A big help was two long studs into the bell housing to help guide the box back on.... And I removed the input gear on the transfare box which ment it went on a lot easier.. My crankshaft spiggot bearing turned out to be a real pain to remove... So if you can get a suitable puller it may be a good move.. Even installing the new one took a bit force.. Certainly more than I felt happy about using.. That's my main points 👍 |
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15th Sep 2023 1:08pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17361
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Unless you are paying someone and are very tight for money, it is a false economy to keep the transfer and main gearboxes bolted together when doing this job. One of the main weaknesses of the Puma transmission the output adaptor shaft splined coupling between the two gearboxes, and it would be pretty daft not to inspect it whilst you have the transmission out. Separating the two boxes also makes them much easier to handle, so really it is what the young folk of today would call a win/win situation.
I have replaced my clutch several times (it is a Puma, after all) and it needs doing again, and every time have done it outside on my tarmac driveway (which is a pain since you have to use a board under the jack so it doesn't sink in the tarmac) working on my own. It is really not difficult, but does require a certain amount of care since dropping either box on your noggin or other squashy bits will cause injury, possibly life changing, and could damage the gearboxes of course. The first time I used a trolley jack, subsequently I bought a transmission jack since it is better suited (it has a wider stance and a flat plate which can be tilted in two planes to make alignment easier). It is very helpful to obtain (or fabricate) the LR special tool for lifting LT230s, this bolts onto the bottom cover plate and provides a flat and level surface for the jack to lift. It is pricy to buy but dead simple to make. The R380/LT230 assembly is easy to remove as a single lump, and there is a similar tool available to allow the complete transmission to be safely jacked (again pricy to buy but easy to copy). There is, unfortunately, no equivalent for the MT82/LT230 combination, which is another argument for splitting them. There is no off-the-shelf bracket for jacking the MT82, but most transmission jacks are designed to accommodate gearbox-shaped objects so this is not usually a problem. So in summary, I think you would be daft not to split the LT230 and MT82 on any Ford-engined Defender, it is entirely possible for one person to do a clutch change outside without a lift and on their own. and using a transmission jack makes it much easier to control the parts you are removing or refitting. I also completely agree that buying the proper extractor for the spigot bearing on the Duratorq engine is worthwhile, it will help prevent swearing, personal injury, mood-swings, and other likely side-effects. Just my opinion of course, other opinions are available!  |
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15th Sep 2023 3:53pm |
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| NoLimits Member Since: 29 Dec 2022 Location: Somerset Posts: 58
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I did my own input shaft and fitted a LOF one and took the opportunity to add the Ashcroft high capacity sump to it at the same time.
To drop the transfer box I put a timber frame across the seat tubs and used a small matlock ratchet puller with some straps to lower the transfer box down onto a dolly. I think I spent more time unbolting the prop shafts and moving the exhaust out of the way than it took me to drop the box and change the input shaft. |
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15th Sep 2023 4:10pm |
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