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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
+1 for forte injector cleaner. Used on petrol and diesel vehicles and it’s worked really well. Especially before emissions tests.
Post #1007108 10th Sep 2023 1:02pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
Iktank wrote:

- took off the top of the EGR - again something you have to do (mine had been deleted/closed early days via BAS, on taking it apart it was all clean)


On the 2.2 with a DPF my understanding is you can’t just blank / fully close an EGR without also mapping out and removing the DPF as they work in conjunction. Is that the case with yours ?
Post #1007116 10th Sep 2023 2:59pm
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Iktank



Member Since: 08 Nov 2014
Location: Porthcawl
Posts: 237

Wales 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
Dont know much about the EGR delete on the 2.2, I only took it off to allow the inlet manifold to be removed, it was all clean and refitted it.
All I know is that when the 150bhp smooth tune was released by BAS it was electronically deleted (or what ever his map does) then when the 170bhp map was available loaded that
I was surprised how clean the EGR was and how clean the inlet maifold was compared to pictures I had seen of others. 3 working glow plugs were nice and clean whist the dead one carboned up.


Last edited by Iktank on 26th Jul 2024 7:38pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1007258 11th Sep 2023 5:54pm
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Phil VM2.5



Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Limelette
Posts: 196

Belgium 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
2,2
hi,
Looks to complicated for me, I let it done by a mechanic with good reputation
it cost me apprx 560 £

When I see that for my Range with dieseel engine VM2.5 (530000 km today) it take me 10 minutes and 40 £ For the parts, I like the ford engine verry much current : defender 110 sw 2.2 puma 2012 and 230.000km today and
again my Range Rover VM2.5 engine from 1992 and 528.000km today.

One ten 1988 to 1992
1987 BMW GS80
One Ten from 1984 to 1987
One Ten from 1983 to 1984
Serie 3 109 from 1980 to 1983
from 1974 Jeep CJ3B and CJ6
Post #1013745 3rd Nov 2023 4:10am
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cult_status



Member Since: 13 Aug 2012
Location: Fen Lowlands
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
I want to thank Iktank for their post.
Rather than ramble on about DPF fears I thought I should share my glow plug changing story.
As I had no idea what the DPF status was on our 2.2 Puma I bought a Topdon ArtiDiag500 S code reader.
Even though the EML was off there was a code P06B9-00 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit Range Performance. Sure enough a multimeter check showed the resistance of GP1 to be 40 ohms (should be 1 or less).
This set off alarm bells as inoperative glow plugs prevent DPF regeneration. I couldn't find any DPF regen information regarding this code so I decided to replace the glow plugs.

I couldn't find any YouTube videos on the Defender 2.2 and now I know why. On a Transit this job is a piece of cake. Iktank's post was all I could find on the Defender and I wanted to share my experience just in case it helps someone else in the future.

You have to remove the fuel pipe LR094764 and I undid the egr pipe into the inlet manifold. I couldn't get the pipe out but it did give me enough wriggle room to manipulate the manifold. I also released the two phillips screws and M8 bolt on the heater controls to improve access to GP4. With this extra millimetre or two I was able to pop out the intake manifold bolts. I've included a photo to show how they are retained.

Also I found a long Torx 30 bit which was needed to remove the EGR body, for access to the final inlet manifold bolt. Watching all those YouTube videos on stuck glow plugs I said a prayer, used a long 3/8th 10mm socket and set my torque wrench to 13nm. Miraculously all glow plugs came out without a fight (see the photo of their condition).

I reassembled everything with a smidge of aluminium anti seize and hey presto no fault codes. As the plugs released with 13nm that was the tightening setting used.

Interestingly the Torque Pro app I have on my phone did not find the glow plug DTC.

Rather than use unbranded cheapo eBay, I used Bosch replacements part no. 0 250 403 024 but the originals were Beru FoMoCo BK3Q 6M090 AB. I would be interested to know if any knowledgeable forum members have experience of either to share.

I know only one plug was faulty but I considered it false economy not to replace all of them.

Also a shout out of appreciation for Kennedy's garage and O'Rileys Autos on YouTube for their various content on Fords and Peugeots that use this engine.
Post #1030850 7th Apr 2024 2:50pm
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cult_status



Member Since: 13 Aug 2012
Location: Fen Lowlands
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #1030851 7th Apr 2024 2:52pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Nice Fluke meter... I have one exactly the same Thumbs Up
Post #1030859 7th Apr 2024 4:43pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
cult_status wrote:
I want to thank Iktank for their post.
Rather than ramble on about DPF fears I thought I should share my glow plug changing story.
As I had no idea what the DPF status was on our 2.2 Puma I bought a Topdon ArtiDiag500 S code reader.
Even though the EML was off there was a code P06B9-00 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit Range Performance. Sure enough a multimeter check showed the resistance of GP1 to be 40 ohms (should be 1 or less).
This set off alarm bells as inoperative glow plugs prevent DPF regeneration. I couldn't find any DPF regen information regarding this code so I decided to replace the glow plugs.

I couldn't find any YouTube videos on the Defender 2.2 and now I know why. On a Transit this job is a piece of cake. Iktank's post was all I could find on the Defender and I wanted to share my experience just in case it helps someone else in the future.

You have to remove the fuel pipe LR094764 and I undid the egr pipe into the inlet manifold. I couldn't get the pipe out but it did give me enough wriggle room to manipulate the manifold. I also released the two phillips screws and M8 bolt on the heater controls to improve access to GP4. With this extra millimetre or two I was able to pop out the intake manifold bolts. I've included a photo to show how they are retained.

Also I found a long Torx 30 bit which was needed to remove the EGR body, for access to the final inlet manifold bolt. Watching all those YouTube videos on stuck glow plugs I said a prayer, used a long 3/8th 10mm socket and set my torque wrench to 13nm. Miraculously all glow plugs came out without a fight (see the photo of their condition).

I reassembled everything with a smidge of aluminium anti seize and hey presto no fault codes. As the plugs released with 13nm that was the tightening setting used.

Interestingly the Torque Pro app I have on my phone did not find the glow plug DTC.

Rather than use unbranded cheapo eBay, I used Bosch replacements part no. 0 250 403 024 but the originals were Beru FoMoCo BK3Q 6M090 AB. I would be interested to know if any knowledgeable forum members have experience of either to share.

I know only one plug was faulty but I considered it false economy not to replace all of them.

Also a shout out of appreciation for Kennedy's garage and O'Rileys Autos on YouTube for their various content on Fords and Peugeots that use this engine.



I’m about to do mine as one GP is showing 18 Ohm resistance. Good write up from you and IKTank Thumbs Up did you replace the fuel pipe with a new one or reuse the old ?
Post #1039724 11th Jul 2024 7:20pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 513

United Kingdom 
It is possible to remove the manifold without disturbing the fuel rail feed pipe, or at least it was on mine.. But I did remove the egr valve completely..
Post #1039738 11th Jul 2024 8:19pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
Ianh wrote:
cult_status wrote:
I want to thank Iktank for their post.
Rather than ramble on about DPF fears I thought I should share my glow plug changing story.
As I had no idea what the DPF status was on our 2.2 Puma I bought a Topdon ArtiDiag500 S code reader.
Even though the EML was off there was a code P06B9-00 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit Range Performance. Sure enough a multimeter check showed the resistance of GP1 to be 40 ohms (should be 1 or less).
This set off alarm bells as inoperative glow plugs prevent DPF regeneration. I couldn't find any DPF regen information regarding this code so I decided to replace the glow plugs.

I couldn't find any YouTube videos on the Defender 2.2 and now I know why. On a Transit this job is a piece of cake. Iktank's post was all I could find on the Defender and I wanted to share my experience just in case it helps someone else in the future.

You have to remove the fuel pipe LR094764 and I undid the egr pipe into the inlet manifold. I couldn't get the pipe out but it did give me enough wriggle room to manipulate the manifold. I also released the two phillips screws and M8 bolt on the heater controls to improve access to GP4. With this extra millimetre or two I was able to pop out the intake manifold bolts. I've included a photo to show how they are retained.

Also I found a long Torx 30 bit which was needed to remove the EGR body, for access to the final inlet manifold bolt. Watching all those YouTube videos on stuck glow plugs I said a prayer, used a long 3/8th 10mm socket and set my torque wrench to 13nm. Miraculously all glow plugs came out without a fight (see the photo of their condition).

I reassembled everything with a smidge of aluminium anti seize and hey presto no fault codes. As the plugs released with 13nm that was the tightening setting used.

Interestingly the Torque Pro app I have on my phone did not find the glow plug DTC.

Rather than use unbranded cheapo eBay, I used Bosch replacements part no. 0 250 403 024 but the originals were Beru FoMoCo BK3Q 6M090 AB. I would be interested to know if any knowledgeable forum members have experience of either to share.

I know only one plug was faulty but I considered it false economy not to replace all of them.

Also a shout out of appreciation for Kennedy's garage and O'Rileys Autos on YouTube for their various content on Fords and Peugeots that use this engine.



I’m about to do mine as one GP is showing 18 Ohm resistance. Good write up from you and IKTank Thumbs Up did you replace the fuel pipe with a new one or reuse the old ?


Managed to change the glow plugs yesterday following the instructions above. Thumbs Up To answer my own question, I reused the fuel pipe with no leaks.

This job is all about getting sufficient wiggle room to get the inlet manifold just out of the way of the glow plugs. So To further aid the downward movement of the inlet manifold I removed the two bolts that hold the metal pipe that the rubber / silicon inlet elbow pipe attaches to.

For the last couple of days I used a long straw to soak the glowplugs in plus gas. I think this really helped as plugs 2-4 came out relatively easy with a short 1/4 inch ratchet. Plug 1 felt tight so I set my 3/8 torque wrench to 15Nm and with a little squeak the GP shifted.

I replaced with 4 Bosch GP’s . £52 inc vat from GSF car parts .

Long 150mm T30 bits really help in removing EGR top. I purchased 5 for £5.5 from amazon.
Post #1040237 18th Jul 2024 2:26pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 513

United Kingdom 
I did reply to your question about reusing the fuel pipe🤔👍..
I'd not long done a similar job but I went the whole hog and removed the manifold.. I managed that without taking the hp fuel pipe off..
Anyways there is always more than one way to skin a cat as they say..
Personally anyone doing the glow plugs I'd say.. Remove and clean the manifold and inlet ports while you are in there.. That's assuming you have had a working egr system and not cleaned it before.. 👍..
I think you can see the fuel pipe in this photo still in place👍



Click image to enlarge


Edit..
I soaked my plug ports regularly for weeks before doing mine and still thought the plug in no3cyl might snap.. The whole barrel was carboed in.. And even when the threads were clear it was still fairly solid.. Took a good hour or more working it.. That was the duff plug as well so that may have contributed to the carbon build up..
Post #1040244 18th Jul 2024 3:41pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
Thanks Andy, in your picture I can see the Bottom of the EGR still in place ( top removed) but I thought you said to get the inlet manifold out you needed to totally remove the EGR.

I did wonder if it was possible to remove the EGR top, then disconnect the pipe from the EGR that goes into the inlet manifold , easing the removal of the manifold from the engine bay. Noting with the top of the EGR valve removed the top output bolt is easy to access.
Post #1040268 18th Jul 2024 7:13pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 513

United Kingdom 
You are right Ian I did say in a post that to get the manifold off I removed the egr valve completely..
That's obviously not right.. I got the manifold off without removing it completely.. Just the motor... And the connection of the egr pipe to the manifold did make it more of a fiddle...
I decided that to give myself a bit more room to get the manifold back on I would remove the valve completely 👍..
That's what prompted the removal commen I think
I also removed that carboned up manifold that sits across the inlet manifold on the end of the egr inlet.. Couldn't see the sense in leaving it in place with a non functioning egr valve.. That made refitting the egr valve a bit easier😁
The throttle body electrical connector is a bit of a pain as well, but I suppose if you did a few it would seem straight fwd..
You mentioned the elbo intake pipe on the throttle body intake.. It is as you say a bit fiddly, but again I'd imagine if you had done a few. It would get easier..
Did you notice any momentary puff of smoke from the exhaust at start up with a duff plug..
I had noticed it before I saw the fault code for the plug (no dash light) and wondered what had happened for that to start.. now the plugs are replaced that has largely gone.. 👍
Post #1040282 18th Jul 2024 8:55pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
I did not have any indication of the faulty glow plug, other than my Nanocom raised a DTC for glow plug 4. However when I measured resistance for each glow plug the only one with a resistance above 1 OHM was GP2, Reading 18 OHM, so GP2 may well have been “just functioning ok”

None of the GP’s had any carbon build up, plugs 3 and 4 had a couple of small patches of surface rust, but that was all.

After clearing the GP4 DTC and running engine with new Glow plugs the DTC has not returned.

Note. I changed the EGR about 15k miles ago and it still looks very clean, as did the inlet manifold. Perhaps due to my driving pattern and use of forte once a year and millers ecomax as fuel additive.
Post #1040287 18th Jul 2024 9:21pm
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