 | Home > Technical > 2007 Puma, dash removal? How to...? |
 
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971   
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To start with, the middle bit comes out by removing the obvious screws and then prying it out from around the area of the heater controls. It comes forwards then up and out. The middle air vents (but not the round ones) come with the centre section.
It then has lots of connectors behind it that you need to remove, but they're all keyed so easy enough to connect back up again. You might find it easier to remove the radio first. |
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9th May 2018 12:06pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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*Unplug all the switches, the plugs are all keyed so you can't put the wrong one back in the wrong switch. *You can either pop out all the speakers now (don't forget the tweeters if you have them), or you can wait until you can pull the dash forward a bit and just unplug them leaving them in the fascia. *Remove the steering wheel - centre pad just pulls off to reveal the nut - make sure wheels are straight ahead and loosen the nut to jiggle the steering wheel loose before removing the nut. - so it doesn't hit you in the face when you pull it. *Remove the speedo cluster, the screws for this are obvious. *Remove the steering column switches - the screws for the plastic cowling are obvious, but ignore the one that sticks out right at the back, it's just a stud, the cowl will slide off it. *remove the passenger side grab handle - again obvious screws. *Work your way around the outside of the dash fascia removing all the small screws. *Pull the dash out. It's not that much work at all, nothing is really hidden. while you're behind there, put duct tape on all the heater duct joints to get them sealing better. Some of the trim clips that support them are also a poor fit. replace them with zip ties. |
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9th May 2018 12:07pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804  
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Awesome ZSD, literally yesterday I just stripped the DCPU to get started on sound insulation and speaker upgrade. Need to fix the heater controls whilst in there. But given the dash is 50% stripped I thought I'd do the whole lot and get behind it for more sound proofing, but also do exactly as you say and tidy up. Glad the explanation implies it's not too hard!!
Whilst I have you, do you know where the 10AS alarm unit is normally house? On stripping the doors it seems I have central locking (actuators at least, with wiring running behind the dash) but it doesn't work. Want to check what's wrong/missing etc. Thanks in advance  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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9th May 2018 1:31pm |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45  
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All OK to all...
I'm currently awaiting for the new parts to arrive.. This little job is made easier by the fact i've currently got the instrument cluster held in place by just two screws as i've just completed a repair to the instrument cluster PCB to rectify various issues with starting etc... OK, when the parts arrive, looks like i'll be busy again... My thanks to you guys for the advice. Cheers Andy 2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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9th May 2018 2:23pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I think the biggest pain you may have is the steering wheel, but even then no trouble touch wood.
Handling it once off may also be a bit of a to do, but generally not too bad. When you pull the steering wheel be sure to not completely take the nut off so it doesn't hit you in the face. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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9th May 2018 6:53pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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I think its roughly behind the instrument cluster from memory. |
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9th May 2018 7:14pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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It should be accessible if you remove the RH speaker. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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9th May 2018 7:39pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1623  
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You an see it if you remove the drivers side lower speaker.
 Click image to enlarge |
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9th May 2018 9:13pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Hi all, great advise on this thread and I will certainly be utilising it all at some point soon (hopefully) 🙂
Out of curiosity, do the heater controls need to come off for the dash to be free, or are these on a mounting point in behind the dash? I only wonder as some sellers of second hand dashes seem to be selling with the controls, and some without. Thanks Kieren |
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16th Aug 2023 6:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344 
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The sub-panel with the heater controls is attached to the main dash-panel moulding, but does not have to be removed from the vehicle if you want to remove the dash-panel moulding. It is not attached to the centre panel (the one with the radio and switches etc) and stays win place when that is removed. Removing the centre panel reveals the screws holding the heater control sub-panel to the dash.
The photos below (found online some years ago) show the arrangement. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Referring to the OP's post at the start of the thread (which I know is five years old), it is worth noting that you don't need to remove the dash to replace the wiper motor, drive rack, wheel-boxes or drive rack guide tube, you merely need to free the dash and ease it away from the bulkhead. This can be done without the wholesale dismantling and disconnection of everything dash-related and is covered in various threads elsewhere on this forum. |
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16th Aug 2023 9:15am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thanks as ever, blackwolf. Unfortunately for me its a full removal as i need to replace the firewall/bulkhead mat, and the dash moulding due to various bits having been chopped out historically.
This one next to the switch panel, for example... a couple in the section under the steering column, to name but a few. Click image to enlarge So, judging by the second pic of the LHD defender, it would need to be unbolted, but not fully disconnected? |
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16th Aug 2023 11:59am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Additional Question.. Is the Defender 90 and Defender 110 interior the same, it is, right? E.g. A replacement dash from a 90 would fit my 110?
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16th Aug 2023 12:12pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344
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Should be essentially identical on all TDCi vehicles (switches etc may differ of course, but the core structure is the same on all.
It's actually the same dash for LHD and RHD vehicles right up to the moment when a huge hole is hacked in one side for the instrument panel. I don't know, if you were to buy a new one, if the hole is pre-installed or you have to buy the hole separately and fit it yourself.  |
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16th Aug 2023 2:48pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Hacked is the right word, I have seen the quality of the cuts where my instrument cluster is!
I am reassured that its the same for 90 and 110 - I thought that was the case but the salvage yard seller I bought my dash from on eBay was listing 90 and 110 ones as specific to the model. eBay did its usual "this wont fit your vehicle" trick, because the seller hadn't populated the other defender models, but i took the punt as the 90 dash was the best condition. Next I need to work out how to replace my shabby firewall mat/pad... managed to get one that hadn't been cut in half (rare as rocking horse  ), so want to get it in in one piece as well! Oh well, one problem at a time. Dash out first. |
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16th Aug 2023 3:09pm |
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