 | Home > My Defender > 110 Puma to M57 and 8 speed auto |
 
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| tommobot Member Since: 15 May 2018 Location: Stratford Upon Avon Posts: 23  
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Ah ok, thats a bit more reassuring.
I wasn't aware the Turbolamik software (or other un-named software) wasn't the same as the CANTCU. Sounds like the CANTCU should last the life of the car..  |
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11th Aug 2023 12:00pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486
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With Turbolamic and HTG the BMW TCU has to be physicaly cut out of the gearbox Mechatronics unit and then the mechatronics is hard wired to the gearbox external connector. The transmission is then controlled by the stand alone controller. This is good for race applications were driving requirements are beyond the tolerence of the BMW coding but can be a long set up process for a road car without the factory development and safety features.
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12th Aug 2023 11:04am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153 
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Setup when swapping from HTG to Turbo Lamik took about 4 hours wiring, 10 minutes to load on the basemap and 15 minutes with Lukasz Lamik remoted in to firgure out i hadnt wired in the brake pedal so it wouldnt come out of park. As per instructions i drove it around steadily for an hour so the controller learnt the levels of wear on the clutched and then that was it. I gave my girlfriend the keys later that day and off she went for a completely uneventful spin on her own.
The turbo lamik isn't as refined as an 8hp OE application, or an OE used in a conversion (without all the usual CAN signals from the traction control, yaw sensor steering angle sensor etc) but it is very good. |
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14th Nov 2023 6:40pm |
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| Mickeyk Member Since: 09 Jan 2024 Location: Gympie Posts: 2  
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I have watched your videos of the truck on youtube, quite the inspiration! I am currently converting my 2010 90 with a M57n2 and 8hp, and I really like the look of your custom Arduino display. Amy chance of making a couple to sell? I think it really finishes off the conversion, and no one else is doing anything so integrated!
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9th Jan 2024 6:48am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Well it's a year later and things have moved on.... as they do
To keep things in chronological order , although not the most exciting addition i decided i wanted a webasto thermotop during the winter months of 2024. There was lots of great information on this forum and i had plently of experience with them on my old e39 BMW which had one factory fitted but broken. Another benifit of the M57 is its compactness and how well all the accessories, hoses and lines line up in a defender engine bay. Not what can be said of the Puma engine. This meant there was plenty of room under the bonnet for the webasto iand i didnt have to cram it in anywhere where it might be difficult to access for repairs or further modifications or changes. I decided i wanted simple control via a switched 12v so bought a freelander variant which is configured for this but due to where its mounted on the freelander they tend to be heavily corroded. The one i sourced also came with needed parts like exhaust, fuel pump and water pump and a partial wiring loom. Unfortunatly this one was heavily corroded and all the bolts snapped disasembling however the PCB was in fine order. I bought a second webasto thermotop c from an e53 bmw x5, where theyre mounted high in the engine bay which also came with another exhaust, bracket, an air intake silencer and it was in great shape.  Click image to enlarge PCB swapped over and some garage testing showed it working as expected and with information here on defender2.net and one or two of Martins other forums got me the info i needed to get the software and comms with the PCB to verift all was well. A bit of chopping and welding got the thing mounted using the bmw bracket on the near side and i got it plumbed into the heater pipes with some t's and a one way valve from webasto. Fuel supply was using an eberspacher kit with tap into my puma tank cap and line into the engine bay via the fuel pump mounted under the car below the passenger seat area. There were chinese kits for much less money but i decided i didnt want to do this job twice, even though i had good access to the fuel tank from abover where id previously cut the floor to ad an in-tank fuel pump. Wiring was pretty sipmle, a small loom was made taking power from the alternator and a cable runs under the car from the engine bay into my cebtre console. I sourced new connectors from Martins site futuranetltd and he gratiously spotted id missed a couple oif seals whcih he included for me - thanks! Its just on a toggle switch for now as Im mid-project making a controller based on an arduino which will build in a timer function, control via a cab button but requiring a press and hold to avoid accidental use (or meddling fingers!) plus the option for remote control via text and/or web interface or app. The exhaust was a challenge. Im new to welding and it was my first time tigging stainless but i was able to mash the two used exhaust systems together to make sometyhing suitable. Although i think i'll revisit this for some changes at some point. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Very happy with the job, i managed to use it a few times before the weater warmend up and it worked really well. It raised engine coolant temps from 5 degrees to 55 degrees in half an hours use and thecab was also toasty warm. |
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7th Apr 2024 9:28am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Since ditching the initial gearbox controller i was very happy with the Turbo Lamik, as it actually worked and therefore a huge milestone in the project. The only complaints i really had were a desperate lack of comminication from the manufacturers, zero documentation on tuning the controller and the doewnshifts felt like they could be oinproved by blipping downchifts. Much of what i learned was from a messenger group of people like me using turbo lamiks in a post-HTG situation figuring things out and sharing information. In the maeantime a third option became available in the Canformance CAN-TCU product. I'd been messaging Kenneth the guy behind it and knew it would be a step forward but would require yet another gearbox swap as this solution retains the factory control unit in the transmission and coes a CAN interface / emulation converting signals between the earlier BMW M57 DDE6 ECU and later generation N57 ECU that the 8HP would have been paired with.
Click image to enlarge So the plan was made, a fourth gearbox procured, new filter/sump, bell housing modified for the m57 starter position andf the factory TCU virginised using CAN-TCU software. A new loom was required which i made using the excelent instructions from Canformance. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge As the transfer box was coming off this was an ideal opportunity to replace and upgrade and i had a build slot reserved at Winchester gears for their stage2 lt230 with ratio change to 1.1:1, ashcroft ATB ( there was one in the old one which worked brilliantly) and new seals and bearings. And the essentail gold paint. Click image to enlarge The swap went smoothly and at the same time on went a Demand 3" stainless exhaust developed with MW Machines 4x4 for the M57 swap. Initially i had just a rear silencer but added a centre silencer after eciding it was a bit loud for my tastes and drew a bit too much attention when hooning. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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7th Apr 2024 9:34am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Brakes were also revisited after feeling like they just werent as good as they should be. I'd gone back to the kit supplied organic 'street' pads with the LOF kit after deciding the EBC yellowstuff pads werent the right choice. I sourced a set of Ferodo DS2500 pads which i rated on an old BMW e46 i used to have with a big brake kit. Whilst swapping over the pads i found the inner pad on both sides siezed as there was a load of crap behind the stainless retaining springs (These are an LOF big brake kit so non -standard calipers and discs). The springs were easy to unbolt and clean behind and i was really happy that this unexpectidly cured a steering wheel wobble i'd been throwing lots of parts at for over a year.
Unfortunatly i didnt really find much improvenent in braking, basically it felt like you had to stand on the pedal to do any big stops so as the only thing left unchanged at this point was the servo, this was swapped with a new TRW brand one. I couldn't get the pin out the pedal box because of the position of the ABS modularor so i ended up fully removing the pedal box. I also found the back of the two year old TRW master cylinder a little damp - which i kind of ignored and hoped was fine. After putting it all back together the brake warning light during the test drive showed a much more serious leak from the master cylinder and it emptied half its reservoir into the brand new servo... Thursday night before a four day weekend, perfect. So after doing some research i found that two years ago i had indeed ordered the correct TRW master cylinder. Land Rover part number LR013017, which TRW call part number PMN202. Id bought it on ebay and the seller was still selling them but looking again it seemed the much bigger cast body then the Landrover one had big oval mounting holes and i should have used special mounting nuts that centralise these on the studs out the brake servo. For some reason i hadn't used these so it was perhaps not aligned properly the first time, and aligned even worse after i swapped the servo, who knows. However further research showed @Mrfirepro on here documenting his LT engined restomod also got one of these big cast TRW masster cylinders and didnt think it was right so i kept looking and found TRW also make a different master cylinder, from pressed steel which looks idential to the OE Landrover one. The odd thing being its also LR013017 but stranger still has the same TRW manufacturers part number PMN202. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Anyway, Paddock Spares had the pressed steel one in stock so i drove over first thing after the bank holiday weekend and got straight on fitting it and re-bleeding the brakes with a borrowed nanocom. And.... yes id say the brakes are now working correctly. Its not night and day but a definite improvement and the wheels can be locked / ABS triggered on a dry road with a reasonable amount of pedal pressure. I wonder if really the only way to get brakes to match the increased performance to to go fith an AP kit all round and swap to 18 inch wheels to fit bigger calipers and discs. Its a step too far for me at this point, and i really dont like the look of 18 inch wheels on a defender anyway. |
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7th Apr 2024 10:05am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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And after an inordinate amount of reverse engineering data logging software and programming
my ardino based display i can now read and display Exhaust gas temperature. Click image to enlarge |
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7th Apr 2024 10:09am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Air conditioning had been on the to-do list for 18 months. I had fitted a new NRF brand condenser (£100) and got the systems regassed at a back street garage who used an automated machine and explicitly stated they werent responsible is anything happened due to the mash up of landriover and bmw ac parts, which is fair enough and was fine by me.
Click image to enlarge This was that red hot summer i think it was almost 40 degrees and unfortunatly the BMW compressor exploded and the shear pully didnt shear shredding the belt and stranding me. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I simply removed the comressor, ran a shorter belt and forgot about it, until the other week. I got a brand new Denso compressor, pattern drier and new landrover puma ac pipe from evaporator to modify onto the M57 engine whcih all went on with some help from a mate. This compressor from the later M57N2 and later N57 engines uses a PWM vale to adjust compressor activity - theres no mag clutch. So just incase the AC specialist thought the compressor was working too harf id made a prototype PWM board to close the valve in the compressor. Happily it was decided that witht the current 10 - 15 degree ambient temperature all is fine but i can lash the circuit in and test again when the weatehr starts warming up. Click image to enlarge |
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7th Apr 2024 10:27am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Most recently ive started to look again at the air intake which my engine tuner says would be the current power restriction.
Id previously bought an ITG canister filter some time ago which i kepy offering up for fitment but wasnt happy. Click image to enlarge Id drawn and 3D printed a 4" cold air feed from the wing by copying MW Machines 4x4 design but making it much bigger Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The fitment issue was a considerable hold up what with everyhitng else going on but i thought up another plan drawing and 3d printing a couiple more parts and mofifying the canister filter with them. With the firment of a 335d valve cover which removed the in-built OEM filter and housing i was able to mount the ITG Canister and add a MAN provent catch can which is plumbed back into the pipe between filter and turbo. Click image to enlarge Back on the dyno next week to see where its at. |
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7th Apr 2024 10:38am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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And finally a little frivolity. I'd always loved the bowler sills, bumper and steering guard and in my stubborness nothing else would do, despite their prices. After much rumination i took a trip over to Belper in the little electric BMW i3 (much to the suprsie of those at Bowler) and i'm well happy.
Of course, it's all inkeeping with my philosophy of only functional modifications - well, i could always fit an oil cooler behind the bumper now, and those side sills have jacking points dont you know 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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7th Apr 2024 10:46am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Hi Mickey, ive been approached by someone for this before who went quiet and i believe got something else instead, after id bought all the parts. Its quite expensive in parts alone and would be quite a bit of work configuring for your requirements. Im happy to discuss if yourer happy to make it worth my time. |
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7th Apr 2024 11:59am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7906 
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Thanks for the updates, looking great!
James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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7th Apr 2024 2:28pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677 
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7th Apr 2024 3:05pm |
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