Home > Off Topic > What’re the scores on the doors? |
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MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 |
Interesting!
Relatively local to me but never had a look at their website before - some interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing! Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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27th Jul 2023 2:09pm |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 |
Excellent. Looking forward to your score on the doors Screbble. I have four non-SP doors painted and ready to fit to Miffy. It will be interesting to see your experience.
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27th Jul 2023 2:18pm |
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Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2106 |
Indeed Geobloke
Likewise looking forward to seeing yours in their prime location. 👍 I’ve amassed quite a few general/functional door bits over the past 12 months such as seals, handles etc. as I’ve been procrastinating. I don’t want to change anything significant but I am tempted to fit the Puma style bottom seals with the ‘upstand’ which looks to me like a requirement to drill a few additional holes (which I’d do before prep and paint). Also thinking about optimising sound-deadening etc. as original had ‘Noisekiller’ products. Did you make any changes/upgrades? |
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27th Jul 2023 2:27pm |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 |
Well... No I have not bought anything to upgrade my doors. I am planning on using as much of the original bits as I can. At the moment I have bought only the waist seals as they desperately need changing anyway.
I was very very tempted to install second row electric windows, still am in a way. https://www.masai4x4.com/electrics/Electri...p297682740 I will be installing some closed cell foam in the door for sound proofing as I have it just sitting on a shelf downstairs. Oh and new locks all around as Miffs were "modified" by a screwdriver in a car park a while back and I have that kit ready to go as well. |
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27th Jul 2023 2:37pm |
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Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2106 |
Sounds sensible.
Whilst there is an opportunity to ‘bling’ the door replacement with billet handles etc. that’s not the way I shall be going. I have new seals etc. but will probably be reusing quite a number of the internals - subject to condition etc. I shall keep you posted! |
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27th Jul 2023 6:10pm |
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Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2106 |
For those of you who are interested, which I suspect is few in number, i provide a little update.
I read and re-read the numerous helpful posts on how to retrofit the enhanced Puma bottom door seal to the early TD5 welded (square) door frames. No matter how I measured and approached this, I could only get one of the original (10) holes to live up. So, although simple enough, I chose to drill 9 new holes. Well, I drilled 11 if you include those on the vertical part of the frame for the rubber upstand. To be clear, I haven’t purchased genuine LR seals - mine are Bearmach - so I can’t say for sure if the centres for the fixings are different. They certainly aren’t equal/consistent in spacing but laying the seal against the door bottom to mark them out is easy enough. I plan to plug the original holes with some little flush caps and some Silkaflex. After fettling and fiddling with the seals I chose to drill the holes ever so slightly closer to the outer skin to keep the seal closer. Click image to enlarge I’ve also recorded the approx. dimensions for the hole for the upstand in case that’s useful for someone. Click image to enlarge I had a spare piece of Dynomat Extreme that I’ve applied - not ideal but better than nothing (I hope). Next job is to apply Dinitrol 3125 to all the cavities. It’s then off to the body shop - but that’ll be after the holiday. |
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2nd Aug 2023 4:05pm |
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Procta Member Since: 03 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5183 |
my dad is looking at replacement doors for his landy, so i take it these are a good replacement for a simple swop over? passenger door has seen better days and his driver side door could do with a better door, plus mine are not that strong a shape either. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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7th Aug 2023 1:58am |
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Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2106 |
Well it’s certainly one option Procta.
I understand that demand is greater than supply. You’ll need to check out reviews and feedback as they vary considerably. I opted for the galv frame with galv(ish) skin. I also stuck with the square welded frame TD5 doors rather than the later pressed steel Puma doors, but I’m upgrading to the Puma bottom door seal. You can choose from various options for the frame and skin - pros and cons for each. You can even purchase fully built up doors including door card etc. but they are not cheap. I’ve ordered new window channels etc. so looking forward to getting the door painted over the next few weeks (after holiday). I’ve already got the new handles and seals so it should look like a proper job. I’ve also just coated the insides of the frame/channels with Dinitrol so it should last longer than the original! My passenger door deteriorated faster than the drivers, but really both need replacing. Just saving up… |
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8th Aug 2023 7:01pm |
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Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2106 |
You can’t rush these things…
Finally making some progress building up the painted replacement door. Quite therapeutic fitting all the plastic fittings, channels and seals. Click image to enlarge Just turning my attention to the locking mechanism and the 3 fixing set screws specifically. The doors (old and new) have countersunk recesses. Click image to enlarge The ‘original’ set screws are torx flanged head, but I’m thinking of fitting stainless steel countersunk as I already have a number of them. Click image to enlarge What have others got fitted? Are my originals actually original? Are the lock threads definitely M6? Thanks in advance |
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3rd Mar 2024 10:55am |
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