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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363
Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Zagato wrote:
scottish110 wrote:
I'm confused now ! Zegato, are you suggesting that I do not use the stainless bolts fro
Paddocks to replace the rusted ones ???


Brendan knows the theory I only know that many advise not to use SS bolts on resto's/rebuilds due to strength/cost and they do rust anyway. Sheradised stuff is costly so most use the standard zinc coated fasteners, I bought ALL the correct size UNF fasteners for my rebuild for £110 Shocked and then you could use sheradised bolts if you want to for authenticity (although LR used a mix of bolts not just sheradised!) such as bumper bolts etc as they look nicer Thumbs Up


Big Cry all i wanted to do was change out some of the bolts for the doors and the ones on the bonnet....Didnt' expect to get such a detailed response from everyone. Guess i will be sending them back to paddocks then
Post #105500 8th Dec 2011 10:48am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582
United Kingdom 
The door and bonnet bolts are not exactly high strength bolts. If you were going to use them for fastening down winch bumpers, recovery points then yes it would be a good idea to use high tensile bolts rather then stainless.

We have just got some of the Nakatanenga stainless bolt kits in. Look here They do come with genuine Land Rover heads on, plus a tube of paste. They may well cost more then the sets on ebay, but if you want that type of set you might as well pop along to your local screwfix or bolt merchant.

I now duck and run for cover Laughing


Brendan
Post #105506 8th Dec 2011 11:54am
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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363
Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
leeds wrote:
The door and bonnet bolts are not exactly high strength bolts. If you were going to use them for fastening down winch bumpers, recovery points then yes it would be a good idea to use high tensile bolts rather then stainless.

We have just got some of the Nakatanenga stainless bolt kits in. Look here They do come with genuine Land Rover heads on, plus a tube of paste. They may well cost more then the sets on ebay, but if you want that type of set you might as well pop along to your local screwfix or bolt merchant.

I now duck and run for cover Laughing


Brendan


The problem im having with that site that you posted is the fact that i cannot translate german Laughing ! Google doesn't seem to want to translate it either Rolling Eyes ...
Post #105508 8th Dec 2011 12:07pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582
United Kingdom 
Dohh, get yourself your own IT guru

Mine has set up my laptop so it will easily translate from German to English and at a click of a button to Swahli, Indonesian or even Welsh! DON'T ask me how she did it!

The other half sometimes have their uses. Bow down


Brendan
Post #105509 8th Dec 2011 12:28pm
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DefenderOfTheEarth



Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Cornwall, UK
Posts: 1304
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Bought a set of SS rear crossmember bolts (well just above them) but not fitted them yet as I'm not convinced of the corrosion resistance - only one pair has corroded too - SS mixed with galvanised might look a bit odd.

It's all about the potential difference/reactivity of the metal - the larger the difference, the worse the corrosion. So you need to isolate any different metals - sadly a LR is made of steel and alu which sit a fair way apart on the reactivity table. Big Cry Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion.
Post #105518 8th Dec 2011 1:14pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013
United Kingdom 
scottish110 wrote:


Big Cry all i wanted to do was change out some of the bolts for the doors and the ones on the bonnet....Didnt' expect to get such a detailed response from everyone. Guess i will be sending them back to paddocks then


Laughing Sorry, yes SS fine for that but so is a squirt of ACF-50 if they havn't already gone Thumbs Up

My translation tool is from Google if you use Google, does it automatically! Wink
Post #105525 8th Dec 2011 2:01pm
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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363
Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Zagato wrote:
scottish110 wrote:


Big Cry all i wanted to do was change out some of the bolts for the doors and the ones on the bonnet....Didnt' expect to get such a detailed response from everyone. Guess i will be sending them back to paddocks then


Laughing Sorry, yes SS fine for that but so is a squirt of ACF-50 if they havn't already gone Thumbs Up

My translation tool is from Google if you use Google, does it automatically! Wink


Iv never used ACF-50 before...Is it clear or black when sprayed ? Would you recomend i spray the whole bolt or just the head as it will be the most exposed ? Cheers
Post #105715 9th Dec 2011 7:58am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Just the exposed heads, sprays on clear. Copper grease is the stuff to use on the threads Thumbs Up
Post #105732 9th Dec 2011 9:07am
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scottish110



Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Location: Inverurie
Posts: 363
Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Zagato wrote:
Just the exposed heads, sprays on clear. Copper grease is the stuff to use on the threads Thumbs Up


NIce one Thumbs Up ! cheers mate...
Post #105733 9th Dec 2011 9:16am
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bolampau



Member Since: 06 Jan 2012
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 100
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Sorry to hi-jack the thread. I get my MY08 Puma 110 this week (can't wait!) and first job I want to do is remove the two third row seats to clear the rear load area.

Would it be sensible to use stainless steel grub screws + copper grease to fill the holes - I believe they are M8 size? Obviously I don't wanna encourage corrosion.
Thanks for your help,
Paul
Post #117777 23rd Jan 2012 3:20pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586
Italy 
SS bolts if AISI316 do not rust itself!!!

It is not a problem of rust, is a electro corrosion problem

But it is very important to use a very good "ANTI SEIZE PASTE" for eliminate the electro corrosion induced by the difference of the potential that born from two (or more) metals.

eg.
Galvanic series in seawater at 25°C (77°F) are indicated below

Upper position = better resistance

Platinum
Gold
Graphite
Titanium
Silver
Chlorimet 3 (62 Ni + 18 Cr + 18 Mo)
HASTELLOY®; alloy C (62Ni + 17 Cr + 15 Mo)
INCONEL® alloy 625
INCONEL® alloy 825
Stainless steel, type 316 (passive)
Stainless steel, type 304 (passive)
Stainless steel, type 410 (passive)
Monel alloy 400
INCONEL® alloy 600 (passive)
Nickel 200 (passive)
Copper alloy C71500 (Cu 30% Ni)
Copper alloy C23000 (red brass 85% Cu)
Copper alloy C27000 (yellow brass 65% Cu)
HASTELLOY® alloy B
INCONEL® alloy 600 (active)
Nickel 200 (active)
Copper alloy C46400
Copper alloy C46500
Copper alloy C46600
Copper alloy C46700 (naval brass)
Tin
Lead
Lead-Tin solders
Hastelloy A
Stainless steel, type 316 (active)
Stainless steel, type 304 (active)
50 - 50 lead tin solder
Stainless steel, type 410 (active)
Cast iron
Wrought iron
Low carbon steel
Aluminum alloy 2117
Aluminum alloy 2017
Aluminum alloy 2024
Cadmium
Aluminum alloy 5052
Aluminum alloy 3004
Aluminum alloy 3003
Aluminum alloy 1100
Aluminum alloy 6053
Galvanized steel
Zinc
Magnesium alloys
Magnesium



SO if you put toughener AISI 316 and Alluminium alloy1100.....

this last one will be the sacrificial anode ......

See the magnesium billet on the boats.


You must build an electrical isolation (not metallic/physical) from the metals.

Who own a old defender can remember the problems with the Steel frame/alloy skin doors..... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #117808 23rd Jan 2012 5:00pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582
United Kingdom 
You can get plastic (nylon?) bolts.

Is it possible to get plastic grub screws?

Or get a nylon bolt if need be, cut off head and hacksaw a screwdriver slot in it.

That way no electrolytic corrosion


Brendan
Post #117823 23rd Jan 2012 5:43pm
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bolampau



Member Since: 06 Jan 2012
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 100
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Dgardel
Wow, thanks for the technical explanation. I've had Disco 1's in the past so can now appreciate what electrolytic corrosion looks like.

Brendan
Good idea re. the plastic bolts/grub screws, will see what I can get hold of.

Can anyone confirm if the seat bolts are M8 size please?

Thanks for your help,
Paul
Post #117834 23rd Jan 2012 6:02pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586
Italy 
bolampau wrote:
Dgardel
Wow, thanks for the technical explanation. I've had Disco 1's in the past so can now appreciate what electrolytic corrosion looks like.

Brendan
Good idea re. the plastic bolts/grub screws, will see what I can get hold of.

Can anyone confirm if the seat bolts are M8 size please?

Thanks for your help,
Paul


plastic or nylon bolts have not the mechanical resistance needed.... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #117861 23rd Jan 2012 6:51pm
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412
United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
dgardel wrote:
bolampau wrote:
Dgardel
Wow, thanks for the technical explanation. I've had Disco 1's in the past so can now appreciate what electrolytic corrosion looks like.

Brendan
Good idea re. the plastic bolts/grub screws, will see what I can get hold of.

Can anyone confirm if the seat bolts are M8 size please?

Thanks for your help,
Paul


plastic or nylon bolts have not the mechanical resistance needed....


I think he only wants to block the holes up when the seats are removed so it doesn't matter. Thumbs Up John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #117870 23rd Jan 2012 7:00pm
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