 | Home > Technical > Turning Ignition, Power gone |
 
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| hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 4   
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Hi all,
I’ve got a 2015 Defender 2.2L TD4, and I’ve been experiencing an odd issue that I’m hoping someone might have come across before. When I put the key in and turn it to the first notch (just before cranking the engine), sometimes the power cuts out entirely. It doesn’t happen every time – just occasionally – but it’s enough to make me wonder if something is on its way out. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I’m not sure if it’s an issue with the ignition barrel itself, the key, or something deeper in the ignition system. Is this a known fault, or am I looking at needing to replace the ignition barrel or the whole switch assembly? Or battery? When I put on 12V power to the battery, car comes back to life! Any advice, experience, or pointers would be really appreciated! Cheers, Hubert |
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21st Mar 2025 9:14am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2212 
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It could be a relay, ignition switch ( you can change just switch and keep barrel) or connection to ignition switch. Have a look at this topic on the relays in the seat box. Check relays labled 1 and 2 in the picture to see they are seated ok and operating ok.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic33868.html |
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21st Mar 2025 12:15pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2212
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That’s odd as it’s for the 2.2 underseat relay and fuse layout and is the same on my 2013 2.2. Perhaps the very last DSC equipped defenders changed the fuse and relay box layouts.
Regarding ignition switch replacement. These topics should help. https://www.defender2.net/forum/post672697.html#672697 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post933318.html#933318 |
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21st Mar 2025 2:18pm |
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| PaulSanderson Member Since: 20 Mar 2025 Location: Norfolk Posts: 34
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Thanks Ian - im beginning to see this could be a right pig of a job!! oh joy ...
As for the fuse box, it actually looks like this.  Click image to enlarge |
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21st Mar 2025 2:28pm |
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| hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 4
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Thank you for the answers - where do I find the ignition switch? Any part number? the relays are below the seat - any one of them likely to fail?
How would the power be restored when connecting a booster? Could it be that the battery is in its way out |
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21st Mar 2025 2:54pm |
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| PaulSanderson Member Since: 20 Mar 2025 Location: Norfolk Posts: 34
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So the investigation ive done so far is that the ignition switch is at the back of the ignition barrel - need to dismantle the steering column (i,e,steering wheel off, disconnect wipers/indicator stalks etc). Some people leave the ignition barrel in-situ and access the switch from the back, and others remove the whole assembly - but its a bit of a pig to do, and involves either drifting out shear bolts, or cutting through them.
as for relays, it seems 2 are critical to the ignition -#2 and #3 in the box below the drivers seat. I dont have half a clue what im talking about, having only checked these components myself today - but got some GREAT advice from members of this forum. suffice to say its running now, but only a matter of time before it fails again. As for battery, just check the voltage in the battery itself, below the passenger seat - anything aout 12.5VDC and you should be good to go. Also, here is a "hot to" for replacing the ignition switch - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post672697.html#672697 Again, provided by another VERY helpful member, not my info. |
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21st Mar 2025 4:05pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20688
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Main ground issue is common, but still shows as voltage in range, but voltage drop will be high under load.
When parked up for a while, voltage drops a little bit more 9ver time which is why it can seem to be worse in that scenario. I’d look at voltage live, during cranking and see what that looks like, bearing in mind momentarily down to about 9v is normal, but if it goes down to say 5v then high impedance is the issue. It’s common, for these things to come loose due to weather conditions, vibration etc. It’s not a cure all solution, but it’s entirely possible. TheThunderRolls🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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21st Mar 2025 7:15pm |
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| PaulSanderson Member Since: 20 Mar 2025 Location: Norfolk Posts: 34
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Not wanting to hijack the thread - you mean to check battery voltage or another voltage pre, during, and post-ignition?
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21st Mar 2025 9:08pm |
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| hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 4
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complete voltage - nothing works, radio sations are lost, clock stops etc.
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22nd Mar 2025 6:05am |
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| PaulSanderson Member Since: 20 Mar 2025 Location: Norfolk Posts: 34
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Have you checked battery voltage, and then mega fuse on the red positive terminal? Got immobilizer light on?
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22nd Mar 2025 10:10am |
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| hunting_defender Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Bludenz Posts: 4
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I changed the battery today, seems to have worked
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22nd Mar 2025 5:12pm |
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| PaulSanderson Member Since: 20 Mar 2025 Location: Norfolk Posts: 34
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Perfect!!! About the easiest fix you can get.
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22nd Mar 2025 8:13pm |
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