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foremanyvr



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 10

Canada 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Coniston Green
Rivits to avoid Galvanic Corrosion
Does anyone know the best type/brand of Rivet to avoid galvanic corrosion of similar metals?

I'm replacing a panel with a steel one that will be revitied into aluminum and want to avoid any corrosion.

I see lots of different options advice, but hoping someone here has experience they can share.

Thanks!
Post #1062390 8th Mar 2025 6:38pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1205

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
The only way to avoid galvanic corrosion is to electrically isolate the two metals, which is tricky with rivets. Ideally you would use plastic/PTFE sleeved rivets if that exists or bolts and nuts with washers etc. in professional applications they use glue, but that's not easy to get right as a DIY application
Post #1062399 8th Mar 2025 7:25pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1847

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Inter metallic corrosion needs an electrolyte to happen. Keep dissimilar metals apart and dry and there is no problem. A good coat of polyurethane sealer adhesive between any dissimilar surfaces will keep them apart and dry, a dab of the same on a quality sealed rivet will do the same under its head. The same on the rear of the rivet once set will help.

Don't forget the basics like de burring holes and removal of swarf

HTH Keith
Post #1062402 8th Mar 2025 7:39pm
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34064



Member Since: 12 Dec 2023
Location: South Central
Posts: 225

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 HT Alaska White
Duralac is what you need which is a jointing compound for joining dissimilar metals used it for years works well on trains works well on land rovers too 110 Td5 Ex Utilities slowly converting into a pop top camper one day

Build thread:https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1024784.html#1024784
Post #1062407 8th Mar 2025 9:41pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1847

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
You're correct on Duralac, but it has no adhesive properties and goes hard / dries out with age.

Realistically if you put anything sealer wise between the panels from seam sealer, insulation tape, duralac, tiger seal even silicone will be better than the nothing fitted at the factory on body mappings etc.

HTH Keith
Post #1062411 8th Mar 2025 10:04pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3508

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
In the boating industry, monel rivets used to be used for their good mechanical properties, and the resistance to corrosion, plus apparently not far on the galvanic table to aluminum. They are less common nowadays.
My old boat of 40 years had monel rivets on its mast, and they looked as good as the day they were installed notwithstanding the corrosive environment of the Mediterranean sea. Pity boat was sold Big Cry 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1062419 9th Mar 2025 1:36am
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