 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear Half Shafts Changed. . . |
 
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| Andy344590 Member Since: 25 Jan 2025 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13   
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I have beein having a drive clunk when changing gear etc since buying the 2014 2.2 D90 CSW last year, and it sounded like it was coming from the rear end.
So after searching the forum for info, and reading quite a few posts about the same problem  , I decided to go the easy option first, replace the half shafts and with the one piece LOF shafts as recommended by BrickBox. https://lofclutches.com/shop/misc/defender...ve-shafts/
Quite an eye opener when I removed the drive cover on the off-side shaft . . . now i know why I had a clunck, and the other side was not much better either.  Click image to enlarge Replaced both half shaft and a quick test drive, and now all good 
Click image to enlarge |
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6th Mar 2025 5:20pm |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 923  
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Glad it’s sorted for you. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS. |
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6th Mar 2025 5:42pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1224  
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Given the condition, I would replace the bearings. Looks pretty dry and that metal/rust if it has reached the races will have affected the surface, causing the hardening to fail dragging the whole bearing down with it.
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6th Mar 2025 5:42pm |
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| Andy344590 Member Since: 25 Jan 2025 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13
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Just checked out the Ashcroft front HD Flanges, looks like the bank balance is going to suffer again  |
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7th Mar 2025 10:12am |
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| Andy344590 Member Since: 25 Jan 2025 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13
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Good point, I will keep an eye out for this, it looked like the bearing had an in-built seal when i cleaned up the mess however looking at the LR drawings, it looks to be a taper bearing from the part number https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/p...and-rover/ Anyone had this problem with bearings?, advice needed from Forum |
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7th Mar 2025 10:19am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 683
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I did the same job a while back.. my half shaft splines looked a bit like the photo above in terms of they were dry and reddish , but in reality not that bad.. i put the lof one piece ones in anyway and unlike you didn't really notice a great deal of difference..
I think most of my clunk will be in the diff, and I've never really had a close look at the A frame ball joint.. |
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7th Mar 2025 10:26am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 63  
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Yes, they are tapered roller bearings and no there is no built in seal.
I would replace those bearings for peace of mind. Or at minimum take everything apart, clean thoroughly and grease. |
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7th Mar 2025 11:14am |
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| Andyslandytd5 Member Since: 06 Nov 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 39 
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Same here!, I switched to 1 piece last year. made quite a difference.
I also had wear in the Output Shaft so replace that 2 when I was get the clutch done. Its like a different car now 2015 Puma 2.2 110 XS Utility Station Wagon - 2024 - Present 2004 TD5 90 XS Station Wagon - 2019-2024 2003 TD5 90 G4 LE - 2009-2010 1990 Ninety 6.2 V8 Station Wagon - 2006-2009 |
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7th Mar 2025 1:31pm |
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| Andy344590 Member Since: 25 Jan 2025 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13
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Looked through online Haynes Manual I bought last week, 210Nm torque and 52mm socket, holy moly. 
Haynes manual says to check end float and adjust with spacer, take it the end float should be already set if not replacing the bearings Click image to enlarge Probably clean and inspect the bearing first. |
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7th Mar 2025 6:18pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1224
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Oh dear you are opening up a can of worms now: the single nut v double nut discussion(look it up). What you have is the later single nut fixed spacer solution. It's best to have the right socket before you start. The torque value is not that important so don't worry too much about that. Unstake the nut before loosening it then just remove and reassemble with same spacer, new bearings or not. Ideally you fit a new nut, but you can restake the old one. Just tighten it up tight.
Now you need to remove your caliper to remove the hub and you need the right socket for that 12 point 13mm (or maybe 15mm) but don't use a six sided as as you could round the heads. Hammer the socket all the way down on the head. They are typically tight so a long lever makes this easy. Locktite is used on refitting, or get new boots which have the compound on it. |
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7th Mar 2025 9:07pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 63
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As long as you keep the same hub you can keep the spacer that is in there. With 210 Nm the spacer will compress slightly and provide the correct end float. The bigger problem may be to undo them…
As said, calliper bolts are 13mm 12-point, get new ones. Why not measure the disc as well while you are there, minimum running thickness is 12,3 mm I believe. It doesn’t add a lot of work and then you know you’re good to go for many years. Disc also has a 12-point bolt, think it’s 14mm could be 15. |
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8th Mar 2025 7:57am |
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| Andy344590 Member Since: 25 Jan 2025 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13
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All the posts I have read mention how tight it is, has anyone used an Impact Gun to remove the hub nut?, I have a one that is pretty powerfull, like 800Nm of removal torque.
Johan_B / TexasRover thanks for the advice on spacers and caliper removal sockets, and i willl check the disc, however the caliper is not in the best condition either and the pad jewellery is pretty rusted. Just checked my torque wrench and its good for 300Nm, so half way there now. I have found a 52mm impact socket on quite a few LR parts sites, so will order one. One relativley quick job is turning into a whole lot of other work . . . sounds similar to others  |
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8th Mar 2025 10:19am |
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| Andy344590 Member Since: 25 Jan 2025 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 13
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TexasRanger . . . Just searched the single nut v double nut discussion . . . . hmmm see what you mean
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8th Mar 2025 10:32am |
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| Esben Kold Member Since: 14 Oct 2023 Location: Horsens Posts: 32  
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You just need a long breaker bar or a steel tube to exstend, so you can apply a lot of torque. It is not something to worry about as long as you have some sturdy equipment with appropriate proportions. Just make sure you unstake the nut in order to preserve the threads. |
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8th Mar 2025 11:12am |
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