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Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White

[SOLD] Defender 110 2.2 2014 Hardtop

The time has come to part with my 2014 Defender 110 2.2 Hardtop. I still love it, but it’s simply not being used any longer and it’s a shame to leave it to sit.

I have owned it from new (on 18th March 2014). It is listed as having two owners, but my sole trader plumbing business was the first one and I sold it to myself when I retired in September 2021. So it’s one owner and driver from new.

The details are as follows:

Price £25,995 or VERY near offer. There’s no VAT to add.

2014 ‘14’ Reg 2.2 diesel Hardtop. Cold Climate pack (heated front screen and heated fabric seats). It does not have air conditioning, electric windows or central locking. It does have traction control. Two sets of keys.

41712 miles from new. MoT to 28th January 2026. There was one advisory on the MoT for deteriorating rear shock bottom bushes. I have replaced these bushes with new ones.

The service history is the first two at Land Rover, then all the rest (annually) at my local village garage. It was last serviced in March 2023 and then did just 150 miles before I SORN’d it in October 2023. It is still currently on SORN. I have always supplied the garage with Miller’s C1 oil for it, the correct Ford 934 specification for the 2.2 engine.

It has also been run on Miller’s ‘EcoMax’ diesel additive from new.

Before I put it on the road (at the end of July 2014), it was in my garage having 23 (that’s twenty three) 750ml cans of Bilt Hamber’s ‘Dynax’ range of rust proofing (S50, UC and UB) applied to the underneath. I have topped this up in places periodically.

Although it is now starting to show a few rusty edges and the axles and diffs are starting to rust, it’s generally as good as you could wish for for a nearly 11 year old Defender. Had I kept it, it would have had another overall application of Dynax this year.

Also from new, it has had plastic rear wheel arch liners fitted and the front and rear mudflaps have been repositioned, using a mixture of Gwyn Lewis 4x4 parts and some of my own, to keep the arches front and back as well protected as possible.

It has never been used off-tarmac or for anything other than going to and from work (typically around 20 miles in a day, but it varied) and the very occasional longer trip.

The rear was plywood lined from new. This is still completely sound, but quite well scuffed from my work.

Its main bad parts are a few tiny dents. One is outwards in the roof, about 10mm across (where a scrap radiator hit it, accompanied by a lot of swearing), one a similar size on the driver’s door where a van hit it with their wing mirror, knocking mine off into the cab through the open window and my mirror arm onto the door and a few most annoying slight ones on the right hand front wing top where my garage chaps have leant on it while servicing it. But they’re hardly noticable.

There are some small stone chips and a couple of tiny dents on the bonnet and some stone chips on the bulkhead. There is a small stone chip on the windscreen, but low down and to the left of centre, so not worth worrying about.

The aluminium windscreen blocks are corroding and there’s a couple of very small bits of bubbling on the windscreen frame. This needs sorting out at some point, but it’s not by any means bad yet.

Both body tub strips behind the front doors are losing a small bit of paint, but they aren’t rusty.

The driver’s door card has a small bit of damage at the top where my steering wheel Krooklock caught it. Visible in the photo of the driver’s side of the cab.

The driver’s side floor mat has some heel wear, but it has a set of genuine Land Rover loose mats, which cover it up.

The back door card has various scuffs from my plumbing kit over the years, but it’s sound.

Right, the good bits:

It’s a ‘14’ reg but has a ‘J’ reg private number plate (I paid £275 for it). I’ll include that in the sale if the price is right.

It has various sensible modifications from its original specification:

BAS 170 Remap.

BAS uprated intercooler (see photo).

Complete BAS silicone intercooler and turbo hose kit (including the little 90 degree one on the bottom left of the engine – I still have the scars from that!)

The above means it’s all ready to accept one of Pete Bell’s uprated turbos if you want more umph.

Eibach uprated rear anti-roll bar. This transformed the handling.

One piece rear half shafts.

5mm steel front bumper (can’t remember the make – they were in Devon I think).

Uproar 4x4 stainless steering guard.

Rear body corner protectors (very heavy duty steel).

Genuine Land Rover Towbar and 7 pin electrics (never used – I haven’t even bought a towball for it, but it’s otherwise complete – the height adjustable bit is there but not in the photos).

Glove box in cab.

Lockable steel cubby box, with small sliding top tray and two cup holders, in cab.

Mud heater deflector.

LOF uprated clutch pedal spring.

H. Bowers 1000mm LED striplight in the rear (it’s like daylight when it’s on at night).

Seat tub corner protectors.

Seats raised about 35mm to allow them to move further back.

Inca seat covers (the same ones Land Rover sell at four times the price).

Five genuine Land Rover Wolf 16” steel wheels, all with Michelin Latitude Cross tyres. The spare wheel and tyre are new and unused (there’s a bit of rust on the wheel edge), the rest of the tyres have around 5-6mm of tread.

The spare wheel has been moved into the back. I can supply the original back door bracket if you want it.

The rear door hinges are from the late lamented GORE. The door is no longer going to fall off!

Stainless rear door threshold. Again, I can’t remember the make.

The front door hinge screw heads were filled and painted from new. The filler is starting to come out slightly now.

The wheel arch liners, etc, as described above.

‘Ultibar’ three bar roof rack with width adjustable ladder or load fittings and plastic 3000mm pipe tube.

Genuine Land Rover steel grille between cab and rear.

Rear window internal security grille.

The rear door has a Nakatanenga gas damper fitted so it springs open when unlocked and won’t blow shut.

Every modification has been done for practicality rather than appearance, except perhaps for the wheels. I have loads of receipts for it, but can’t promise every last one for the modifications as some of them probably went into my plumbing accounts.

It’s been regularly washed, using the two bucket method, with Bilt Hamber ‘Autowash’ and polished with their ‘Double Speed’ wax, so the paint is in very good, unfaded condition, with only slight swirl marks.

I think that’s about it. If I remember anything else I’ll post it below.

I would describe it as being in very good condition for an eleven year old vehicle. It’s had a nice and pretty easy life so far. It’s probably a bit corny to say so, but if I was in the market for one again and came to see this one, I’d buy it.

I’m not interested in swaps or silly offers. I just want to sell it. Please don’t get in touch if you haven’t got the money.

I’m in south Leicestershire. If you’re interested, please send me a PM with your name and phone number and we’ll take it from there. Thanks for looking.

Last edited by Joe the Plumber on 19th Feb 2025 7:57am. Edited 4 times in total

3rd Feb 2025 12:59pm

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Click image to enlarge

3rd Feb 2025 1:05pm

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Last edited by Joe the Plumber on 3rd Feb 2025 1:37pm. Edited 2 times in total

3rd Feb 2025 1:07pm

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Click image to enlarge

3rd Feb 2025 1:10pm

Welshsurferdude

Member Since: 23 Feb 2012
Location: Newport
Posts: 2447

Not many original hard tops like these these days, id dare say you should put it away in the garage after topping up the bilthamber and itll be worth a wedge in a few years! 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)

2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS

2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold)

2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)

4th Feb 2025 8:30pm

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Given the enormous amount of interest it hasn't generated so far, I might end up doing just that!

4th Feb 2025 9:01pm

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

As I haven't had any interest in my van after a week, may I ask for opinions please.

Is the price too high, is it the wrong time to try and sell it and although I hesitate to ask, are there any other places that are recommended to try selling it?

Thanks folks.

10th Feb 2025 9:41am

Will@LRW

Member Since: 04 May 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 200

1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

Put mattress in the back and strap down some cupboards. Take it to a field or national park carpark and lay out some camping equipment and take photos. Then list it on some overland forums.

Yours is a premium vehicle. Personally I would want to put it in a museum in the condition it's in!

Selling the overland idea is the only way to get a premium price for a hard top.

Failing that, list it everywhere online that will take car adverts. The quickest way to sell something is to reduce the price. If you don't want to do that then the waiting time for a sale lengthens. Even if you've had no enquiries, prospective buyers may have taken notice of it. Sometimes putting the price UP brings people out of the woodwork. LR Workshop
Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com

10th Feb 2025 10:13am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17626

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

That is a thing of beauty!

If only it was a 2.4 not a 2.2 I'd buy it like a shot. I think the price is very reasonable however being a full HT it is a much more specialised vehicle that the run-of-the-mill SW variants and I think it will inevitably take longer to sell.

It is extremely rare to see a full HT which has been looked after that well and has than low mileage, I am in admiration of the way you've looked after it. GLWTS,

10th Feb 2025 10:20am

mini Anaconda

Member Since: 23 Aug 2016
Location: Thames Valley
Posts: 806

Not sure I have ever seen a hard top in such good condition - you have clearly looked after it well.

BORG - Bucks & Oxon 4x4 Response Group

10th Feb 2025 11:51am

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Thanks chaps. I'm flattered that you think it's worthy of such generous praise.

I'll have to consider what to do next.

11th Feb 2025 6:52am

revd

Member Since: 20 Apr 2024
Location: England
Posts: 208

Definitely keep it if you can. Have you thought about doing your own camper with pop-top roof etc? I bought a TD5 110 HT in similar condition 10 months ago - yours is the first I've seen since that can hold a candle to it. If you do decide to sell remove the ply lining and roof bars (no one is going to buy it as a works van) and market it as a bank canvas ripe for conversion

11th Feb 2025 7:15am

Joe the Plumber

Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 921

Thanks revd. I had thought about removing the ply and the roof bars. The only problem with the lining is it's partly screwed down (by the firm that did it from new) and will leave a few small holes in the floor and arches.

I don't want to convert it myself though. Our 'camping' is done in a narrow boat!

11th Feb 2025 7:25am

Rkcorry

Member Since: 23 Jan 2017
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 227

Click image to enlarge
A real credit to you Joe, though as before, I think it would be easier imagined without the rack and lining.

I too had a 110 hardtop, which also was ply lined from new. I ended up removing it and laying down some rubber matting.

Since sold it on to be converted to a weekend camper. Still having bouts of sellers remorse.

11th Feb 2025 9:04pm

revd

Member Since: 20 Apr 2024
Location: England
Posts: 208

Easy to fill the screw holes with isopon etc - masking tape with a hole (use a leather punch or similar) placed over each screw hole, sand, prime and paint - took me a morning to fill where the ply was attached in mine.

11th Feb 2025 9:20pm

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