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TD5JSY



Member Since: 13 Jan 2014
Location: Saint Lawrence
Posts: 5

Jersey 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
DPF removal - 2.2 Puma
Not looking to 'delete' the DPF, but finding an easier way to remove it from the vehicle to back wash the filter on an ongoing basis to maintain it.

I understand that you can remove it from under the vehicle by removing the gearbox cross member and a lot of wiggling and skinned knuckles.

If however you were to cut the downpipe, in the area of the above mentioned cross member, do you think it would be possible that the DPF could be removed from the top side, i.e. up through the engine bay?

I was then thinking of having a stainless steel pipe fabricated from the cut to the middle silencer. That stainless pipe would be flanged to slip over the original downpipe from the exit of the DPF and clamped therefore enabling future removal and hopefully ease of access.

Collective thoughts and past experiences please?
Post #1060355 12th Feb 2025 12:44pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2138

United Kingdom 
Slip joints can be very hard to seal, especially if you use them on the hottest part of the exhaust. The paste type sealants can handle the heat, however they tend to crack and fail due to vibration and expansion/ contraction. The ultra high temp silicon sealants are good but I don’t think they will handle the high temps that close to a DPF when it’s undertaking a regen.

Band clamps would be best if you want to dissemble the joint as they don’t create a crimp ( like standard exhaust clamps do) however unless the joint is perfect with perfect sealant they don’t work.
Also dissembling a slip joint that has been sealed and clamped can also be very hard.

In conclusion I would advocate using flange type joints on all elements of this pipe section.
Post #1060363 12th Feb 2025 1:35pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 628

United Kingdom 
not quite sure where you intend cutting but it will have to be beyond the Flexi piece of pipe I would imagine....there are three temp sensors which will also hinder removal unless you can get them released without damaging them and the connectors for them are awkward to get at been mounted on a bracket on top of the transfer box... and a differential pressure sensor to disconnect...
I removed mine from underneath, and had to access the o/s engine mount to allow the engine to be lifted, to allow the can to clear the engine, so it is a right pain to remove from underneath ...
and even if it can be removed from above I think will still involve a bit work...
im sure I have read about it been taken out from above, but is it worth the work and fabrication, for something I don't think should need doing more than once in the lifetime of the dpf
a picture to allow folk to get an idea of what you are on about..



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
Post #1060375 12th Feb 2025 2:12pm
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TD5JSY



Member Since: 13 Jan 2014
Location: Saint Lawrence
Posts: 5

Jersey 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
Yes I was thinking below the Flexi part, so 'south' of the connectors that you are referring to.

How did you manage to get to the connector plugs? I haven't yet investigated that joy, did you get your hands up there or could you access them from in the car,i.e. under the cubby box panel?

If the connectors are accessible then in future it would save dropping the cross member and jacking up the engine for access.

There is little point in pursuing the idea further if someone has already tried this and the filter will not come up out of the engine bay.

I hear what you say about how often this might be needed, but where I live my journeys are about 3-5 miles lasting no more than 20 mins or so which really plays havoc with the EGR and DPF. The joys of living on an Island 9x5 miles I guess 😀
Post #1060381 12th Feb 2025 3:00pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 628

United Kingdom 
I was doing a clutch so access to the temp sensor connectors was easy enough as I had removed the transmission tunnel..
If that wasn't been done you could likely access them by removing the cubby box and plate..
I think you would need to be able to get two hands on the connectors to release and separate them so I'll say no its not a job by reaching up from underneath..certainly not easy and would require you to be very familiar with the connector release mechanism..
I'm sure it would come out the top especially if the pipe bends were removed, but as I said not sure what you would have to remove..ie manifold ..turbo etc....
Hopefully someone has been there ..👍
Post #1060384 12th Feb 2025 3:35pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2138

United Kingdom 
Worth a look at pics and a read regarding cutting the pipe where you envisage.

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic92691...st+removal
Post #1060389 12th Feb 2025 4:57pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 593

England 
Removed mine from above
Crossmember out prop disconnected and the small plate on the brake mc was overhanging so was also removed.
Bonnet off and it wiggled out
Obviously all sensors brackets and bolts removed first

Went back in the same way easily
Post #1060437 13th Feb 2025 6:53am
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