Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2.2 head gasket (probably) |
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TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1086 |
Always a bit of a challenge if you want to run an older car for long(er).
The parts you buy might not be as good as the a parts you replace or the removal installation could effect their operation. I would say if it aint broken don't fix it UNLESS the parts are wear parts, relatively cheap, reliable/routine to buy and otherwise hard to to fit, like oil seals and maybe a clutch. Personally I would not change the injectors. Assuming you are doing your own work I would keep the cost down so that you can justify keeping the car and use the funds towards future issues. Not so sure about the headbolts on these, but there are plenty engines where you should not but in fact can reuse them with the correct toque settings. Or go for ARP stud/nut if that is possible on these engines - maybe that's only on the old V8. |
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25th Nov 2024 2:26pm |
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opm Member Since: 28 Nov 2024 Location: Sydney Posts: 2 |
Hi Andy, Have you started? I've just taken the head off my puma to replace a suspected head gasket, after the egr cooler failed.
I've bought a mix of parts including Fibi Bilstein, Victor Reinz etc. This is the first time I've done a tdci. My advice is to take everything off that you need to, I started by removing as little as possible (aux, hoses etc)...it ended up just being so slow due to access restrictions. Cheers, Adam |
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29th Nov 2024 5:48am |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2036 |
It does sound like a head gasket issue now you have discounted the egr cooler, coolant header cap etc.
Re other things to think about with head off for gasket. The timing chain and guides are worth inspecting. Many have run the 2.4’s and 2.2’s to high mileages on original chains, some above 200K miles. However there have been a few reports of timing chain issues so something worth thinking on. I would also replace the glow plugs, they are not expensive and can prove problematic to remove, i.e snapping in the head. So doing so with head removed avoids any issues related to snapping. Having the head off will make it easy to clean the injector seats and the inlet manifold prior to reassembly. |
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29th Nov 2024 11:14am |
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piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 215 |
Hey Adam Did you manage to source parts locally or overseas? I've not started yet, just trying to get together a list of all the bits I'll need. Finding the time will be a bit tricky at the moment. I'm still using it, although only for short journeys. The rear crank seal looks to have a minor leak also, so thinking I might take the engine out and do the lot at once. Andy |
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29th Nov 2024 1:45pm |
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piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 215 |
Thanks Ian, that's good info regarding the timing chain etc. I think it will be a case of remove and inspect and then purchase additional parts if necessary. Will probably therefore take a bit longer than I was expecting, but that's ok, I certainly fancy having a go myself. I was chatting to one local mechanic who said it is unlikely there will be anyone in town who would look at doing a HG on a Land Rover, so I may not have a choice. Andy |
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29th Nov 2024 1:52pm |
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opm Member Since: 28 Nov 2024 Location: Sydney Posts: 2 |
Hey Andy,
I couldn't find a head gasket in Australia, so I ended up ordering everything OS from Trodo. Make sure you get the right one! 3 sizes or 4? I'm replacing all seals/gaskets, timing, bolts. It looks like the timing chain has been off at some point, as the markers weren't lined up. Mine has done 150K. I can see why most blank the egr, the inlet was so clogged up! I'd be inclined to replace the egr cooler or blank, they seem to fail pretty regularly - definitely pressure test it. If you have the time and ability to take the engine out, it'd definitely make it easier to work on and clean. Check the head and block, potentially get it skimmed and pressure tested. Cheers, Adam |
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30th Nov 2024 6:22am |
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