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Epicurus1992



Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: Wantage
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Problems greasing prop shaft
Hi all,

I tried to grease the front and rear prop shaft (sliding joints and UJs) on my '05 110 TD5 and nothing went it. I replaced the grease nipples with new ones and tried again, but still nothing went in.

I'm using a standard steel push-type grease gun, comma multipurpose grease (tried on a cold day when it's thick and a hot day when it is quite liquid) and new Britpart nipples. I can get an ok seal between the nozzle and the nipple, pump it away until it builds up pressure, but then eventually the grease just explodes around the outside of the nipple, with none of it having gone into the joint.

Does anyone have any bright ideas about what might be going wrong? I wonder if it might be that it hasn't been greased for years (I only got it a couple of months ago) and it's all gunked up and solidified inside the joint. Or that the nozzle isn't a great fit for the nipple (does anyone have a recommendation of a nozzle that they know fits well?).

Any assistance much appreciated!

Cheers
Post #1034422 10th May 2024 4:31pm
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Notyalc



Member Since: 27 Jul 2018
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 160

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
It’s a faff, but if you have concerns maybe best to remove the shafts from the vehicle and inspect, and grease off the vehicle while fully exercising the joint.

Some people do this every time and will tell you its the only way to properly grease the joints.
Post #1034426 10th May 2024 6:46pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The grease inside the UJ has gone solid. It will be difficult to deal with this without removing, dismantling and cleaning (or replacing) the UJ. Sad
Post #1034427 10th May 2024 6:47pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 511

United Kingdom 
im sure everyone has their own method and favourite gun..
I use a lever operated gun with a rigid discharge pipe ..I gave up trying to use the standard type coupler, even whenni found one slim enough to mate...
what works for me is the cone shaped discharge nozzle that terminates in a very fine discharge hole..
that is pressed onto the small hole in the nipple which is sealed by the small ball and its never failed to get the grease into the uj joint..the splined sliding joint will have a rubber sealing collar which can be dislodged to push some grease into that part ...I usually do that when the props are dropped off ...
Post #1034428 10th May 2024 6:58pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20311

United Kingdom 
You might be able to use a small implement to carefully release the small ball bearing in the nipple housing a bit, so the pressure can build up better rather than blowing out, outside of the nipple.
But other than that, it’s a problem like Blackwolf mentioned which is quite a task unfortunately.

What grease gun are you using and pressure? ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1034429 10th May 2024 7:34pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2223

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
As mentioned above take the props off. Then you can articulate the joints whilst greasing and you can check properly for any play in them.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #1034450 11th May 2024 7:42am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
With the prop off you may be able to heat the UJ to soften the old grease, but go easy because of the seals. Hot water is ok, not a naked flame.
Post #1034454 11th May 2024 10:14am
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Epicurus1992



Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: Wantage
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Thanks for the suggestions.

I've been using a push-type grease gun and having spoken to a friend they've said that's probably the problem- the pressure needed to grease the Defender nipples is a lot higher than for an old Series and it's just not possible to do it with a push-type (this isn't the one I've got but is basically the same: https://www.diy.com/departments/8oz-push-t...95_BQ.prd)

I'm going to first try a lever-style gun- thinking this one?: https://www.toolstation.com/laser-grease-gun/p29224

And then if that doesn't work I'll try dismantling as you all suggest.

I've got no time to do anything on the landy for the next couple of weeks, but when I have I'll report back.

Cheers all for being helpful as usual Smile
Post #1034456 11th May 2024 10:42am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20311

United Kingdom 
Though it may be more than you wish to spend you might want to consider an Allemite 500-E
Lever grease gun, I would imagine it’s slightly higher pressure than the one you had in the link.
(Check I’m just assuming here).
And also they have very good following, it has a flexi hose too which helps I have this myself.
Also a lock n load narrow release coupler.
To manipulate better access, I chock the wheels and jack up one wheel just enough to spin it.
Then you can get it in easier to the UJ nipple.

Do this only on flat ground on a safe area, be especially careful to secure the wheels and with handbrake on, if you jack the rear be even more careful as the vehicle isn’t secured then so chocking all the wheels is the safest way to go.
You only have to jack a wheel up just enough to spin it, no more.
I use concrete blocks to secure the wheels, but sleepers would work too if heavy enough sizes.
The safest way really is on a lift, but that isn’t practical for most of us for obvious reasons.
I try and grease them approx every 3 months.
Morris K48 grease is ideal.

Hope those suggestions help, it’s just what I personally do.
If you can do it after it has been driven that helps as the grease is softer and easier to push out and replace with fresh, but isn’t a compete necessity and beware of possible hot exhaust.

Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1034457 11th May 2024 11:20am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 511

United Kingdom 
I'll add a photo of the gun and end that I use.. Tried to describe it above but a picture is so much better..
I think those ends are sold as been suitable for injecting grease into nipples that may have been damaged or you can't get to couple with an ordinary end



Click image to enlarge
Post #1034474 11th May 2024 4:24pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Epicurus1992 wrote:
... the pressure needed to grease the Defender nipples is a lot higher than for an old Series...


No it isn't, they're exactly the same! Granted though a push-type grease gun is likely to struggle. A decent lever gun is an excellent and modest investment.

There are tools which can help with coagulated grease, essentially an impact greaser you can fill with oil then belt with a hammer, but they're pretty much the last resort of the desperate grease monkey!

Let us know how you get on.


Last edited by blackwolf on 11th May 2024 8:22pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #1034475 11th May 2024 4:38pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20311

United Kingdom 
It’s when water gets in there and corrodes, or grease goes hard is when the problems start, which is why it’s good to do it regularly it’s also important to make sure the nipples are always present.
Some of mine had disappeared a few years ago, why I don’t know the ones that I put in have been fine.

But one thing for sure if one is missing, replace it asap. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1034481 11th May 2024 5:07pm
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Epicurus1992



Member Since: 28 Apr 2024
Location: Wantage
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
To round off the thread...

I was using a tool that wasn't up for the job. With the push-type grease gun and a non-locking nozzle it was impossible to build up enough pressure to force the grease in. However, using a heavier-duty pistol grip one one (this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CarBole-Pistol-Gr...&th=1) it was a piece of cake.

Thanks all for the advice.
Post #1036298 2nd Jun 2024 11:23am
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MartinB



Member Since: 20 Jul 2024
Location: Sutton-in-Ashfield
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Problems greasing prop shaft
Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Just had a similar problem myself - could not get grease into the front UJ on the rear prop shaft.

Removed the shaft and soaked the offending UJ in hot water for half an hour. This softened the old grease and enabled me to get new grease in there.

Must say my wife was not impressed to find a prop shaft in the kitchen sink; perhaps I will use a bucket next time.
Post #1051529 12th Nov 2024 10:14pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1994

United Kingdom 
You could have left it in situ and used her hairdryer to warm up the greese Very Happy
Post #1051541 12th Nov 2024 11:45pm
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