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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3402   
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could it be play in the connecting rod that connects to the ball joint?
Very unlikely. Ball joints are taper and they sit pretty snug as long as the nut is torqued to the correct specification. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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4th Nov 2024 2:26pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842  
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I didnt think it would be that end but had to ask. Looking more like a drop arm again
How ever, I might just try giving the nut a tweak to make sure. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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4th Nov 2024 2:39pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7986  
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Fit a disco drop arm and TRE with new drag link. Far simpler design and easier onward maint as only a tre. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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4th Nov 2024 4:25pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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Something like one of these from a Disco 2?
 Click image to enlarge I have seen the disco drop arms on Glyn Lewis 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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4th Nov 2024 7:14pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5648 
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4th Nov 2024 8:31pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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Thanks but sold. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Nov 2024 7:57am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3402
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Unless you already have and need sumo bars, a standard Disco drag link is enough (and you need the drop arm). Possibly easier to replace a tre, unless the thread is seized in the drag link, but I find that the standard Defender drop arm ball joint to be just as good. You just need the tool to push out the inner ball joint cup. Dont hammer on the drop arm. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Nov 2024 8:26am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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I have no need TBH. I couldn't justify the price TBH.
I have a puller for the defender drop arm so I might just look to replace the arm with another one but not the same make as before (will check paper work) 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Nov 2024 8:42am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3402
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Did you replace the complete drop are or just the ball joint?
I was curious last night and saw some ball joint rebuild kits which were more expensive than complete drop arms including balljoint. So that could be either one is doing a huge margin on the ball joint rebuild kit, or the quality of the drop arm/ball joint is questionable. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Nov 2024 9:45am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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I replaced the whole drop arm with ball joint already installed. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Nov 2024 9:48am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 208  
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The LR workshop manual states that you shouldn't test the steering ball joints by rocking the steering wheel side to side, but you should try to push / pull on each individual joint. Does anyone know why that would be?
Would you be more likely to detect movement by focusing on individual joints or could the steering wheel option give a false indication? Click image to enlarge |
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5th Nov 2024 12:08pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7986
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Rocking the steering moves the whole system so whilst it identifies you have play I guess they are suggesting it doesn't tell you where the play is which pushing/pulling individual joints does.
Personally I rock the steering. Mot guys jack a wheel and rock that back and fwd against hub. Ref changing a drop arm or changing a ball joint again after a short period of time I would suggest something is wrong with the quality of parts.a ball joint should last over 100k miles with light off roading. Personally I find winding out a TRE alot easier than changing a ball joint which on an off roader where joints pick up external damage and are usually pushing hard in rocks/mud with big tyres is a massive benefit. On a road going vehicle I see there is less of a need. If looking at using discovery drag link just check how your going to mount the damper if your retaining it Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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5th Nov 2024 1:04pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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Cheers all. I will take a closer look at the steering system/components when I have a spare day/weekend to do so.
Not the first time I have had steering components fail/wear prematurely. The last was the steering shaft to steering box that had play in a bush. Replaced with an old spare I found in the shed with zero play. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Nov 2024 1:44pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2214 
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Gwyn Lewis sells a bracket for the steering damper if you change to disco drop arm.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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5th Nov 2024 2:42pm |
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