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Edpike



Member Since: 04 Jul 2020
Location: NI
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Defender Heated Seat Fix
I recently put out a call for help about my non-functioning heated seats in my TDCi 110 XS.

Thanks to advice from @RaceDriver I have now resolved the issue. Just in case you have the same issue you might want to check this post out as it fixed my issue.

Issue - Factory fitted heated seats not working. The dash heated seat switch light illuminates, but the seat does not warm up.

Potential Cause - The yellow wire that attaches to the seat thermostat has broken away from the thermostat.

Time taken - c.45mins per seat.

Steps to resolve:

1. Remove the seat base.

2. Disconnect the 2 heated seat cables (one from the seat box and the other from the seat base).

3. Remove the seat from the seat box by removing the 4 bolts at either end of the seat runners (see pic).


Click image to enlarge


4. Split the seat cover at the back of the seat back rest where it is joined at the bottom. This is done by easing the plastic runner fastener apart (see pic).


Click image to enlarge


5. Gently pull the base of the seat cover slightly up the seat. You do not have to go very far, but just enough to help you access the heated seat pad.

6. Locate the heated seat thermostat. This will be hard circular device under a foam pad that the heated seat wires run into (see pic).


Click image to enlarge


7. Gently peel back the foam pad to expose the thermostat. Once you have done this gently scrape back any foam around the thermostat terminal where the yellow wire attaches to. If this is broken then this is most likely the issue.


Click image to enlarge


8. Solder the yellow wire back to the thermostat. This is quite a fiddly task and an extra pair of hands is advisable. Please be aware that this will heat up the thermostat so allow it all to cool before you test your solder. If the thermostat is still warm it may cut off power to the seat pads as it thinks it has reached the correct temperature.

9. Replace the foam pad over the thermostat and secure (I uses some gaffer tape). Make sure you have secured the yellow wire to the seat back as well as it may have become loose during the whole process.

10. Reassemble the seat by reversing the process. The seat cover plastic runner fastener is a bit of a pain to get back together and I used a block of wood to help snap it all back into place.

That is it. I am not particularly skilled at this sort of stuff and would rate myself as a ham fisted amateur, but I managed to muddle through unscathed in about 45mins for the drivers seat.

By way of a postscript, when I repaired the passenger seat the yellow wire had not broken away, but yet the heat pad did not work. I decided to re-solder again and now it is working perfectly. I am not sure if a solder dries over time, but if this is the case with you and you have gone to the trouble to remove the seat etc. you might as well give it a go.

I hope this helps and provides you a warm backside this winter!


Last edited by Edpike on 1st Feb 2021 1:58pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #878858 16th Jan 2021 3:45pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
That's a great post Thumbs Up Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #878884 16th Jan 2021 4:27pm
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mwestcrew



Member Since: 09 Dec 2019
Location: South Warwickshire
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Baltic Blue
Excellent post. Mine isn’t working and I didn’t know it had a thermostat.
I’ll take a look next week.
Thanks 2011 130 Utility Body
2005 110 Van
Post #878927 16th Jan 2021 6:12pm
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Edpike



Member Since: 04 Jul 2020
Location: NI
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Thank RaceDriver as he is the one who put me onto this. Hope this is the fix for you.
Post #878937 16th Jan 2021 7:21pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 677

United Kingdom 
Fantastic post. Really interesting.

Out of interest, has anyone had any joy either deleting or replacing the thermostat so that the seats warm up and then stay warm, rather than warming up once, going off for 45 minutes, and then warming up again?

It's one of my bugbears!
Post #878964 16th Jan 2021 8:18pm
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Edpike



Member Since: 04 Jul 2020
Location: NI
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
I suppose you could just bypass the thermostat by connecting the 2 yellow wires, but then you would have to operate the heated seat manually from the dash switch.

My only concern with this would be if you left the switch on and got out of the vehicle as the bum thermostat would not be there to inform you to switch the seat off. Not sure what damage this would do to the heating elements if left on with the engine still running.

I am sure there is probably a more sophisticated way to design it from an electrics point of view, but that is very much above my pay grade.


Last edited by Edpike on 16th Jan 2021 9:41pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #878969 16th Jan 2021 8:34pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 677

United Kingdom 
True, i know the aftermarket seat heaters have 2 settings. Do they have twin stage thermostats or 2 thermostats in them?

Can you swap out the thermostats in the standard seats and heating elements for aftermarket thermostats maybe?
Post #878982 16th Jan 2021 9:20pm
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Edpike



Member Since: 04 Jul 2020
Location: NI
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Matt - you are asking the wrong guy.

I have seen the aftermarket types and if I am honest I think the repair that I have done on my OEM seats will probably be the last as my wagon is 2007 and with over 110K miles on the clock the seats could do with a complete refurb.

When I decide to do it I will have to replace the heating elements as well. I will probably stick with the OEM as I like the fact that it will just plug straight into the existing harness and I am not a fan of the aftermarket switch gear.

I know from your posts that you are a way more experienced hand than I (thinking about your Webasto Thermotop C posts - and thanks for the advice) and there are probably people out there that have done the conversion that can advise, but sadly I am not one of them.

Presently, I am just happy to have fixed an issue and now will have a warm-ish backside for the rest of winter. That said, I still have to do the passenger seat and the missus will want that fixed pronto, so back to the cold hay shed tomorrow...
Post #878988 16th Jan 2021 9:37pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5638

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
You can just wire the new heated seat wiring (not LR) into the LR loom and use the existing switch, and I have done this before, but found then it got too hot, so I was always turning then on and then off. I like the LR elements because I switch them on at end of September and off at about Easter, much less messing about. Thumbs Up
Post #879001 16th Jan 2021 10:46pm
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Stiff1



Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
So is this the same on the base, as in are there the same discs and chance of these yellow wires coming way or does this only apply to the back? My driver seat does not heat up, base or back.

Also, have been considering putting aftermarket pads in the rear seats (Puma) but wasn't keen on the non OEM switches, is there a write up for doing this that I have missed?
Post #879006 17th Jan 2021 12:17am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5638

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
No sensor in the base. BUT if the sensor wire is broken/failed it stops both parts of the seat heating.

Basically the heated seat is wired so that one wire goes into the seat back through temp sensor, then all over seat back, then down and all over seat base then returns to loom. So if wire is damaged anywhere it will stop both parts of the seat heating.

You could always swap the seat base from drivers to passenger to test individual sections.
Post #879039 17th Jan 2021 9:27am
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Edpike



Member Since: 04 Jul 2020
Location: NI
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Stiff1 wrote:
So is this the same on the base, as in are there the same discs and chance of these yellow wires coming way or does this only apply to the back? My driver seat does not heat up, base or back.

Also, have been considering putting aftermarket pads in the rear seats (Puma) but wasn't keen on the non OEM switches, is there a write up for doing this that I have missed?


That is a really interesting idea - heated rear seats. If you do, it would make a great post, but I am sure you will get the odd negative comments about luxury in a Defender etc... Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing
Post #879049 17th Jan 2021 9:47am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1913

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks for this, had the very same problem and fixed it today Very Happy

Clipping the seat cover back was hardest bit! Especially with cold hands

Thanks 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)


Last edited by bear100 on 19th Mar 2021 7:28am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #889673 7th Mar 2021 4:15pm
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Edpike



Member Since: 04 Jul 2020
Location: NI
Posts: 35

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Great stuff and I am glad that I could help.
Post #890748 11th Mar 2021 2:01pm
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1389

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Another heated seat fixed today thanks to this thread Thumbs Up

The yellow wire was broken and the glue spots attaching the wire to the pad was cracked, probably indicating that the wires had been pulled tight. I fed some wire into the seat frame from the plug end, to give it a bit more slack, before soldering the yellow wire and running a hot glue gun over the spots.
All easy to do and the tip about the thermostat having to cool down after soldering was appreciated. Very Happy


Click image to enlarge
Post #978861 19th Jan 2023 5:40pm
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