 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > TD5 Dashboard Lower vent flaps - cable replacement |
 
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2947  
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Not a nice job
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6th Sep 2024 10:10am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5866 
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Thanks
No its not going to be a nice job 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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6th Sep 2024 10:44am |
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| Notyalc Member Since: 27 Jul 2018 Location: Northumberland Posts: 161 
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Cant help with how to do it…
But mine broke i poked the flaps open and then fitted some of the 3D printed adjustable lower vents so that the heat can be pointed wherever you want, up down window etc. |
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6th Sep 2024 7:44pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5866
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Well....job done.
It wasn't entirely unpleasant. More fiddly than anything else. Started with the dash top, binnacle, heater controls, centre console, dash end caps, passenger side plastic dash trim to reveal the heater ducts and metal dashboard support. Through the maze of wires on the drivers side I could see the flap control cable disappear into the inner dash. There is a plastic liner/tray that sits on top of the heater ducting to which I made a minor alteration to. In the middle of the tray the wires that go into the radio etc pass through a cut out. I had two choices, remove all the wires from the radio and the two rows of carling switches or, cut out the plastic to form a U shape and slide this passed the wires. I opted for the modification Once removed, you then see the wiring looms that run underneath and these sit on top of the heater duct. Around 20 screws hold this cover down. Removing this showed the inner workings of the lower vent flap controls. A simple rod left to right with a spring loaded flap either end. The drivers end has the control cable held in place with a bolt that goes into the cable grip. Remove this and the old cable comes out. I took the chance to hoover inside the heater duct and grease/lube up the mechanism. When I replace the control cable, I took the cable out the sleeve and passed it back through the main outer covering as this made it easier to get the duct cover back in place. Once threaded through and the duct cover back in place I put some thin oil down the control cable inner to add some extra lube. Reverse as before to put things back in place. Careful not to trap any wires between the duct cover and the dash. I didn't take many pictures. Starting at around 10am and dash back together by 6pm. - 1 hr ish lunch. Also fitted the mud stuff air vents, cable tied the wash pipes so they can't move around too much, added some foam to parts of the dash to stop vibrations. Dash removed  Click image to enlarge Duct - with tape over the heater outlet holes to stop me dropping screws down the hole Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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10th Sep 2024 2:33pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1099  
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Looks like nothing changed then from my 1972 Series 3
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10th Sep 2024 5:39pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5866
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No, probably not. Maybe just some more plastic to hide bits and bobs 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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11th Sep 2024 7:59am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5866
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Discovered I will have to take my dash board apart again to fix the passenger side lower vent. It appears to spring closed when the drivers side one is open.... 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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22nd Sep 2024 7:09pm |
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