 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Replacing upper steering column |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353   
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I'd have thought that the heater control bit may well be a throwback to the TD5, there is quite a lot in the TDCi manual that was inadvertently not taken out when it was reviewed (which I don't think it actually was) for the TDCi. I don't see why the heater control should be a problem (they're still there in the photo below).
I'd have to look at the vehicle to have an opinion on the brake pedal assembly, but I would have thought it highly likely that you'd have to take the dash out.  Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Jun 2020 7:33pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666  
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Thanks for the reply and photo.
Sorry not made myself clear - it refers to removing the bracket for the heater valve on the outerside of the bulkhead which on the RHD model is the bracket for the bonnet switch. It is definitely a TDCI reference. According to the manual pictures, once the ignition barrel is off the column can be removed into the engine bay and you only need to unbolt the fuse box and move it rather than remove the whole dash. It is the removal of the brake pedal that I am not clear on whether this is LHD specific Text from manual: 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to: Battery Disconnect (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, General Procedures). 2. Remove the instrument panel. For additional information, refer to: Instrument Panel (501-12 Instrument Panel and Console, Removal and Installation). 3. Remove the steering column lock and ignition switch housing. For additional information, refer to: Steering Column Lock and Ignition Switch Housing (211-05 Steering Column Switches, Removal and Installation). 4. Release the central junction box (CJB) from the bulkhead. Remove the 4 nuts. 5. Release the steering column. Remove the bolt. 6. Remove the brake pedal and bracket. For additional information, refer to: Brake Pedal and Bracket (206- 06 Hydraulic Brake Actuation, Removal and Installation). 7. Release the steering column from the lower shaft. Mark the relationship between both shafts. Remove and discard the bolt. 8. Release the steering column from the vehicle body. Remove the 2 bolts. 9. Release the heater control valve and bracket. Remove the 2 bolts. 10. Remove the steering column upper support bracket. Remove the 4 bolts. Collect the rubber strip from around the steering column shaft. 11. Remove the steering column from the steering column lower shaft. 12. Release the steering column main support bracket. Remove the bolt. 13. NOTE: The steering column must be positioned correctly to pass through the bulkhead. Remove the steering column. I will have to take a better look to see if this is a clash point. |
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4th Jun 2020 7:24am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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I have now looked at both the manual and at my Defender, both of which are things I should have done before answering above. It actually hadn't dawned on me to start with that the bracketry means the column has to come out downwards rther than upwards.
Clearly in the case of a RHD Puma, it is the bonnet switch bracket that has to be released, not the heater valve bracket (the setscrew/bolt that secures it is one of those securing the "steering column main support bracket" released at step 12). I suspect that the answer to your main question ("is it really necessary to remove the brake pedal and bracket") is that it probably is. Inspection of the vehicle shows that there is very little clearance between the brake and clutch pedal brackets to manipulate the column, it may not be possible to manipulate the steering column main support bracket away from the bulkhead, and I am not sure that the column can be wiggled enough to allow the upper mounting bracket (normally in the cab) through the elongated hole in the bulkhead (illustrated in step 13) with the brake pedal in place. The whole area round the column is ridiculously congested and restricted, and access will be a nightmare (especially on my Defender which has a full-bore induction system and Provent competing for the free space as well)! I think that if I was tackling this job I might try without disturbing the brake pedal, but with the full expectation of having to remove it before the column can come out. Apart from the hassle of removing the interior trim, removing the brake pedal doesn't sound particularly difficult and at least doesn't involve removing the master cylinder and disturbing the hydraulics (although I would support the m/c carefully once it is released). It would also provide a good opportunity to check the servo for the classic Landrover cracking problem. The very significant improvement in access to the column which removing the pedal and bracket would provide would I feel make it an attractive option. It certainly seem to me that this is one of those jobs which has the potential to result in an unusual amount of cursing and swearing! Taking the wing off would undoubtedly make it easier, but that is probably a step too far. |
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4th Jun 2020 8:24am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666
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Thank you for that detailed reply! Much appreciated.
I will have to go and have a better look at this and decide if I am up for the challenge. Messing with the brake system is out of my comfort zone. Mine doesn't have ABS so not sure if that allows more space? Thanks again |
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4th Jun 2020 8:42am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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Mine doesn't have ABS either (thank goodness), I imagine that that wouldn't make it any easier.
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4th Jun 2020 11:47am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666
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Well pleased to say I managed it without disturbing the brake pedal or servo.
The old one definitely had play in it as you can pull on it and get a knock which the new one doesn't. Not had chance to drive it yet to test. It took me most of the day at a leisurely pace. Getting the old one out was quicker than putting it all back together especially with treating rust and painting bits. I had to take out the airbox and its bracket, lower intercooler pipe and the bracket on the alternator off to get enough room. Hardest bit was getting the lower and upper shaft spline in position to get the bolt through. Had to make a puller. Getting the ignition barrel off was done using a dremmel to make groves in the heads. Getting a screw driver to them was easy as the shaft was unbolted and could be rotated. Here are photos at the half way point. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Thankfully all back together and started without any trouble. |
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22nd Jun 2020 6:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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Good job, well done!
Useful to know it can be done without disturbing the brake pedal. Thanks. |
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22nd Jun 2020 8:05pm |
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| MartinJC Member Since: 12 Jul 2014 Location: Gauteng Posts: 13  
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Did the column exit through the cab? 2002 130 td5 Gameviewer
2004 110 td5 SUV 2012 110 2.2 HCPU 2013 110 2.2 PU Gameviewer 2014 110 2.2 SUV 2018 110 Traxxas RC |
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10th Sep 2020 3:12pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666
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No - beside the engine.
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10th Sep 2020 3:30pm |
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| Disneysland Member Since: 25 Apr 2024 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 5 
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The stalks in my defender are not level, instead of at 9 and 3 o clock they are at 8 & 6. Some scroat had tried to steel it before I bought it (I presume they tried to break the steering lock and bent the brackets or forced it to slip around), and now I want to get the the outer column rotated by about an hour clockwise. How do I do this? I have undone the single bolt bracket behind the clocks, but the shaft still won’t turn. |
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4th Sep 2024 1:24pm |
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