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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20115  
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Try cleaning the MAP sensor, replace if over ten years old.
If no change after that, check the Turbo actuator linkage is free, is lubed (the pivots with 3in1 light oil) and working, you can manually check the turbo by manually operating the vanes by removing the top linkage on the electronic actuator. Be careful not to loose the circlip. If that still doesn’t work replace the Electronic Actuator on the turbo, bearing in mind most places won’t want to do that unless you do it yourself because they want to sell an entire turbo assembly. Check for boost leaks in the hoses with some light washing up liquid mixed in water sprayed onto hoses look for any bubbles. It is probably turbo over or underboost by sticking turbo vanes, or MAP sensor dirty. That will cause limp mode, but no MIL, often corrected by a restart of the engine. For now, use some Milliers diesel additive in the fuel, and lube the EA pivots after checking the vanes are free, you take off the upper circlip nearest the EA, a little screwdriver will do that. Then the lower part connected to the turbo you you can manually operate it should operate freely by hand then reconnect. You can clean the MAF or MAP with MAF cleaner or brake cleaner sprayed in the direction of travel, keep clean and don’t touch the elements. Evap thoroughly on a piece of paper and refit. The MAP to manifold securing fixing is 3NM. I doubt it’s VCV as that will often cause cutting out and constant lack of power in 5th and 6th, unless it bad the fuel pump has picked up duff fuel all of a sudden but if it was that bad it would probably cut out or stop and restart etc. Don’t manually force the EA arm by the way, only operate it the lower part agd with the engine off just to check it is free and lube. Check the battery clamps are tight and the main ground also.. Check for leak signs around the manifold just above and around the MAP sensor and towards the block, though this is less likely. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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7th Jul 2024 7:34pm |
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| Rescue01 Member Since: 17 Jul 2015 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 95 
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I had a leak on my inlet manifold gasket which was doing the same thing. Wouldn’t rev above 2500rpm. Switched off and ran fine for a bit then same again. Worth a look.
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7th Jul 2024 8:49pm |
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| Silverspeed Member Since: 07 Jul 2024 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 8 
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Thanks for the comments - first item will be manifold as I had a diesel smell in the car yesterday on start up . Just thought it was exhaust fumes coming in to cabin but not noticed it before .
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8th Jul 2024 9:03am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17207 
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It would be useful to know what stored DTCs are present after the problem has occurred, without these it is hard to do more than speculate.
It is unlikely to be a VCV problem since that cannot activate the MIL and cannot per se trigger limp mode. It is more likely to be a boost issue of some kind, either a leak in the HP part of the induction system (a leaky hose from turbo to intercooler being the most common on a 2.4 (check it is not being rubbed by the bottom clamp bolt of the steering column), or intercooler, or pipework for intercooler to manifold), or a turbo or actuator problem (again the most common cause of turbo actuation issues on a 2.4 is damage to the engine wiring harness where it is secured to the engine, so check carefully for damage to this harness - there is a very real risk of fire when this harness becoes chafed). Do you get any whistling or farting noises (from the vehicle, of course!) before the problem occurs? |
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8th Jul 2024 9:20am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17207
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By "diesel smell" do you mean a smell of fuel or a smell of exhaust? A smell of exhaust could indicate a leak between the exhaust manifold and the turbo (or manifold and head) which could conceivably be causing your performance problem. It is not unknown on the 2.4 for the flange to break off the downpipe/catalytic converter due to weld failure, and this fills the car with fumes, as I found this out the hard way some years ago. |
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8th Jul 2024 9:25am |
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| Silverspeed Member Since: 07 Jul 2024 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 8
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It was more a diesel smell than an exhaust smell and immediately after I cranked the engine from cold . Didn’t do it again during the day . I also noticed a plume of white smoke about 3 minutes after starting my journey whilst stopped at a junction. I noticed it around the front passenger door ( assume was from exhaust ) There was nothing as I accelerated off . Problem is I’m looking for every little thing now thinking it’s an issue .
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8th Jul 2024 9:47am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17207
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It would be sensible to check for any signs of a fuel leak in that case, either on the ground under the vehicle or in the engine bay. All of the fuel system components in the engine bay are on the nearside of the engine. My gut feeling is that the running issues you are experiencing are unlikely to be a fuelling issue however.
The photo below shows damage to the turbo actuator on my 2.4, and although the damage looks minimal it was sufficient to cause the turbo to stick in full boost with spectacular consequent sound effects. It could equally well have stuck in zero boost or the default mid position. Damage this minor could be causing your symptoms.  Click image to enlarge |
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8th Jul 2024 10:04am |
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| Silverspeed Member Since: 07 Jul 2024 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 8
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Thanks will check for fuel leaks - just spoken to the supplying dealer who has told me to take it back and they will do further tests . I have told them of all the symptoms - they told me there was an over-boost issue which they thought was resolved . It ran so well for about 60 miles after it was returned from a new intercooler being fitted .
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8th Jul 2024 10:12am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17207
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I was getting an overboost error DTC when the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler failed as a result of rubbing on the steering shaft. This problem is almost impossible to see without dismantling things, but it is possible to check quite easily by reaching down and feeling the underside of the pipe. If it feels very soft and squishy there is a good chance that it is leaking. There should also be space to get your fingers between the pipe and the steering shaft coupling bolt, if there isn't the pipe hasn't been fitted correctly and is likely to be chafing.
Later vehicles (the 2.2) had an extra bracket to prevent this from happening, but on the 2.4 the pipe must be fitted carefully (but usually wasn't). If it is leaking there will usually be a hissing or farting sound under boost. |
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8th Jul 2024 10:41am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20115
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Worth just having a look at the injectors and injector seats / seals too, any dampness around there, but the DTC(s) suggests the most likely issue to be turbo related as Blackwolf mentions and definitely worth checking the wiring too of the EA plug + MAF.
 NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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8th Jul 2024 1:01pm |
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| Silverspeed Member Since: 07 Jul 2024 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 8
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Dropped it back at the dealers - not without incident - she was going so well at 65mph on the M1 and suddenly it was like someone had switched off the power . Couldn’t get above 40mph and struggled really badly up hills . No fun being overtaken by lorries ! The more I accelerated the worse it got which I assume is limp mode ? Had the fumes in cabin about 2 minutes in to journey but cleared on motorway. More exhaust than fuel smell . Dealer is really frustrated by the issue . They don’t believe it’s a turbo issue as they have done pressure (leak) testing on the system and checked actuator etc . They are looking at injectors next . Could be more than one issue I suppose . Still no engine management light . Only has 55k miles on the clock and when it runs ok it’s really smooth . No unexpected noises and no hissing etc . It’s never done it from cold - it’s always up to temp before issues start . I mentioned the MAP sensor and they said it had been checked over and all good . Could it be something as simple as engine temp sensor ? When it was test driven over a number of days fault always appeared during test drive post work until they replaced intercooler . They did two test drives and on fault . I drove it Saturday no fault and then on Sunday fault reappears .
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8th Jul 2024 2:17pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17207
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If it thinks it is overheating it will enter an engine-saver mode. It is possible that this is happening. Hopefully they'll check the CHT (cylinder head temperature) sensor. There should be DTCs for this, I think, and CHT readings can be monitored in real time with a diagnostic tool. If the garage is good they should be able to sort this out - eventually.
Most Puma owners will tell you that there are periods of intense frustration and depression whilst you are trying to diagnose mystery faults which appear to make no sense, but these are more than made up for when the problem - usually simple when identified - is fixed. Then the smiles come back! |
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8th Jul 2024 2:37pm |
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| Silverspeed Member Since: 07 Jul 2024 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 8
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Yes frustrating but haven’t lost the joy (yet) of owning a really good example . The chassis etc is in really good condition and interior is almost unmarked . Wanted one for over 20 years and not going to give up now ! The dealer has an JLR tech working for them and has all the diagnostic equipment etc . I’m not going to put them under pressure - they know I just want it sorted .
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8th Jul 2024 2:49pm |
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| Silverspeed Member Since: 07 Jul 2024 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 8
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Update - they are replacing the turbo . Let’s hope that sorts it .
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10th Jul 2024 5:26pm |
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