Jimbob292
Member Since: 06 Nov 2023
Location: Derby
Posts: 20
 
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If you can get hold of the 14 CUX interface plug, there is some free software where you can monitor all the inputs https://github.com/colinbourassa/libcomm14cux the only down side is you cannot control the ICV, you can see the stages of control only.
I've one of the old ECU Mate box of tricks, time to time they come up for sale of the Bay of E, for the Prince of Darkness ECU, it's a god send, in helping sort issues, seeing what the ECU is doing, you can drive the ICV all the way out, for cleaning, and reassembly with a dab of moly. Same with the main ECU connector in my D1 its in the footwell, disconnect and smear ACF 50 on the plug and all the connectors, keep the moisture out from giving iffy readings.
As others have said, it can be the idle valve, also the MAF can play tricks, take the connector off and spray WD40 on the connections, also clean the MAF with MAF spray. Throttle chamber can get pretty dirty, as the inlet from the ICV is drawn in, so a clean with EGR cleaner can be good.
When it's idling spray WD40 around all the vacuum hoses & plenum if it picks up on idle, you found a leak. Also clean out the crankcase breather, they can cause a bad idle. When it first cranks over it will change the injection cycle to run rich to warm up, if you still have issues at this stage, check the coolant sensor readings, to make sure its reading correct, they do go faulty, then you have the tune resistor, these are in the loom hidden away, from memory 4 types, they don't effect the injector cycle, but which tune the ECU uses, cats or non cat, with emission control or without.
Every two years i take the plenum off and clean all the oil out, it sucks if through the crankcase breather, when you put it back together again, a smear of hylomar around the matting faces helps heaps, and on all the hose connectors as it never sets, I've found it keeps the seal when everything warms up.
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14th Sep 2024 12:32pm |
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