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H1Tad



Member Since: 20 Jul 2024
Location: Maine
Posts: 113

United States 
Aluminum and Steel - galvanic corrosion issues?
Hello There

I just had a PDR guy come and try to take out a dent that my wife managed to acquire in the first two weeks of ownership. It was right at the seam between the passenger rear quarter panel and the plastic tail light cover. He was only able to pull it out so much because he said that the dent was right over a folded over seam on the inside.

I was not aware that the Defender had aluminum body panels in the first place - but then it has steel doors and I believe a steel hood. I have another vehicle that has 6061-T6 aluminum body pieces that mesh up to steel body pieces and over time, despite being a thick rubber gasket between them, the steel rusts due to dissimilar metals - resulting in a new roof needing to be installed.

Is this an issue on the Defenders? I live in a very corrosive environment where the roads are heavily salted and my house is 300 yards from the ocean. If it is an issue, is there anything I can do preventively to stall the onset of it?

Thanks in advance! 2022 Defender 110 SE P400 Tasman Blue Expedition and Cold weather package
2003 Hummer H1 P400 Firehouse Red
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Post #1041579 1st Aug 2024 2:46pm
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LR Nuts



Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1097

 
all you say is very familiar.

I do remember LR having a problem with the Discovery 2.
Post #1041580 1st Aug 2024 3:12pm
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stingray



Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: North Wales
Posts: 98

Wales 
My nephew, Mark Beaumont, has developed an excellent product which should help tremendously with corrosion issues of the type that you have mentioned. It is called 'Lanoguard'. If you google that name, you will soon see what I mean.

Not sure if it is available in the US though.

Hope that helps.

Ray
Post #1041594 1st Aug 2024 8:13pm
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H1Tad



Member Since: 20 Jul 2024
Location: Maine
Posts: 113

United States 
Thanks for the recommendation - we have a plethora of available corrosion inhibitors here. I get my rigs treated with something called "NH oil" which is a sticky thick black oil that essentially encapsulates metal and protects it against the elements. Makes working on the underside a terrible mess however.

Unfortunately corrosion inhibitors don't do much do stop galvanic corrosion as the chemical differences between dissimilar metals causes a reduction (or oxidation, I can't remember which) with the mere presence of moisture. 2022 Defender 110 SE P400 Tasman Blue Expedition and Cold weather package
2003 Hummer H1 P400 Firehouse Red
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Post #1041719 2nd Aug 2024 9:39pm
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BadgerWaz



Member Since: 15 Jul 2024
Location: Linconshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 
For galvanic corrosion to take place you are correct in stating that you need a liquid for the chemical reaction to take place with any real severity.
I'd have thought if you undersealed all of the vehicle to protect it from moisture you'd certianly delay the process.

It may be something LR have prepared for and used non-conductive materials as insulators, or that it'll take decades to take hold so they don't really care Laughing

I think Audi have issues like this, but on 20 year old cars so we're safe for now. I'd worry more about the road salt......
Post #1041722 2nd Aug 2024 10:12pm
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H1Tad



Member Since: 20 Jul 2024
Location: Maine
Posts: 113

United States 
Quote:
It may be something LR have prepared for and used non-conductive materials as insulators, or that it'll take decades to take hold so they don't really care


That's indeed what I was hoping for. I was just curious if anyone has experienced it yet.

And yes, encapsulating the metal is a way to slow it down, but it can never be completely eliminated. Water displacement (using oils) is about as good as you can get. 2022 Defender 110 SE P400 Tasman Blue Expedition and Cold weather package
2003 Hummer H1 P400 Firehouse Red
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Post #1041765 3rd Aug 2024 1:44pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Out of interest, which bits of the L663 are aluminium? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #1041768 3rd Aug 2024 2:14pm
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J77



Member Since: 04 Nov 2019
Location: Fife
Posts: 3390

Scotland 
I thought most of it was aluminium. The body structure definitely is, the roof is, I always thought doors were also aluminium. Need to get the magnet out. 24MY 90 D250 HSE, Tasman Blue
Post #1041769 3rd Aug 2024 2:45pm
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Philm



Member Since: 19 Jun 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 168

United Kingdom 
all doors and wings are steel
Post #1041771 3rd Aug 2024 3:30pm
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 808

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
This is madness, if true..!

I thought this was just posted in the wrong section for the classic defender..! I did not expect to be reading this about the new one..! 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #1041772 3rd Aug 2024 3:35pm
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nebc100



Member Since: 07 Nov 2023
Location: Altlinster
Posts: 93

Luxembourg 
Tested… Philm is correct… wings and doors are steel
Post #1041805 4th Aug 2024 8:27am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2748

United Kingdom 
Corrosion isn't the issue that it used to be.
l visited the factory in Liverpool where they make the Evoque and Discovery Sport.
Watching the robots assemble the doors was captivating and l was left behind by the tour group! Eventually someone came back to find me.
l would have had no idea where to go as the factory was huge.

Anyhow, there was a robot that applied a sealant between the door skin and frame before they were put together, presumably to inhibit the corrosion mentioned above.

When did you last see a modern Land Rover product with rust coming through at the bottom of the doors?
Post #1042202 8th Aug 2024 8:33am
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stevemfr



Member Since: 18 Sep 2022
Location: Strasbpurg
Posts: 137

France 
Exactly this ^^^

Galvanic corrosion is an issue where dissimilar metals are fastened to one another - especially if water can creep into these joints. Examples were an aluminum door skin folded over a steel door frame at the edges. Or a long, flat flange where steel and aluminum were riveted or bolted together. The mounting flanges the wings on a classic RR spring to mind as I still have 2 of these (RRs, not flanges ;-p).

Simply having a steel door or bonnet on an aluminum body will hardly caused galvanic corrosion. With the door seals or bonnet bumpers, there are practically no points of contact between these bits and the body. Hinges, catches and for that matter all manner of parts bolted to the aluminum structure are theoretically a different story. But materials and paints have improved so much over the last years. I seriously would NOT worry.

Aside from all of that, people are acting completely surprised by all of this; Land Rover never stopped using aluminum (save, possibly, for the lower end models such as the Freelander though I'd have to check). My L322 RRs are more or less exactly the opposite of the L663: aluminum doors, wings and bonnet on a steel unibody. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s,
2 FL1s and a L663 on the way
Post #1042211 8th Aug 2024 10:30am
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H1Tad



Member Since: 20 Jul 2024
Location: Maine
Posts: 113

United States 
Quote:
When did you last see a modern Land Rover product with rust coming through at the bottom of the doors?


This is the first LR I've ever owned, and I haven't made it a point to crawl up under other peoples' cars Laughing Laughing Laughing

But it sounds like they were prudent when using the two materials together. 2022 Defender 110 SE P400 Tasman Blue Expedition and Cold weather package
2003 Hummer H1 P400 Firehouse Red
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Post #1042218 8th Aug 2024 11:41am
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