 | Home > Series Land Rovers > Possible fuel starvation, hesitant |
 
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| Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Woodford Posts: 1110  
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I’d be taking the top off the carburettor to check for cleanliness. There is usually a bit of sediment in the bottom of the float chamber.
Check for sticking needle valve. Check jets in carb top for blockage. I use a butane refill canister to blow through the various jets and orifices. Check the float hasn’t ‘sunk’ The modern fuels don’t preserve plastic floats and it will eventually leak. Cheap replacements available. If a Zenith carb, renew the o ring. Apart from that you’ve covered the pump and pickup. Check no air leaks on the suction side of the pump and piping. I would expect a bit of leakage of fuel if there was. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV 1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy |
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24th Jun 2024 12:57pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1086  
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You either dive into this to understand and fix it, or have someone else do it for you. It is not an art, but you need to want to learn and understand (time) to fix it.
Assuming this is a Zeneth Carb, there are a few things you want to check. If you open the carb you really should fit a new gasket, but be careful not to overtighten the top screws as you will warp the lid and base (see 7) 1. Vacuum leaks, typically where the carb is mounted 2. Fuel supply, you have been looking at that. You can open the carb and have a look at the float chamber, should be full. Also just cranking the engine fuel should squirt into a bottle. 3. Float check not full of fuel 4. Check valve for function 5. Check accelerator pump membrane, piston and spring. In fact you can do this with the car in situ. Hesitation could be caused by faulty accelerator pump. It squirts some extra fuel into the airstream to compensate for the air accelerating faster than fluid (on acceleration) 6. Check for any jet blockage, not likely unless it is a mess in there. 7. If it stalls on idle afterward reassembly you messed up the mating surface and introduced air into the idle emulsion tube. To fix that you should relap the surfaces and maybe add a bit of gasket sealant between the mating surfaces. A lot of people curse the Zenith, but one that is set up right is really nice, simple and robust. I bought a bunch of used ones a while back and rebuilt them handing them off to people in desperate need. Unfortunately I now only have one left in stock, which is for my own use. But I have some instructions and documentation I can find and share. |
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24th Jun 2024 3:55pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450  
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What fuel are you using? Any additives?
My first suspicion is that there is either crud or a dollop of slime in the carb if you're running E5 or (worse) E10. My first action would be to clear the jets, the quick way being to remove the elbow from the carb, run the engine at moderately high revs and whack your hand over the top of the carb until the engine almost stalls, then remove hand and let engine speed recover. Repeat this process a couple of times and you should have cleared the jets, unless there is an overwhelming about of ethanol-produced crap in the system. If you're lucky the problem is sorted. If it makes no difference then the problem probably isn't a blocked jet and phase 2 troubleshooting can follow. |
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24th Jun 2024 5:34pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3758
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Somd great advice, thank you
I use E5 fuel but an adative also. Carb cleaning etc seems a good call. (Removing the elbow etc...) Texas Rover Shame your not doing the refurb kits 👍 Wil try and have a look see what I can do, can I use air time clean the carb? |
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24th Jun 2024 8:53pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3758
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Hello
As I have a few shows booked and limited time in the evening to go through this, I have cleaned what I can my removing some of the fuel line and bought some tiny sort of bottle cleaner brushes to clean the pipes, I've also sprayed carb cleaner in and around what I can and changed one of the fuel pipes for a new one. Now, it appears similar and if I quickly prod the accelerator it will back fire (like a gun shot) in fact while warm and I had the elbow off the carb using the method mentioned above to stop the car. I went to restart it stood outside and turned the key.... It was like a Landrover-borghini literally flames came out of the pipe followed like a big bang 
So next question, is the back firing another issue or part of same? what do people recommend. Thanks |
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28th Jun 2024 8:56am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1086
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Other than very very rich running, back (or through the carb) firing could indicate timing or valve issues. Did you check the timing is correct? Could you have accidentally swap over the spark leads? Did you check valve clearance?
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28th Jun 2024 9:36am |
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