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JackLongley



Member Since: 05 Dec 2022
Location: Penarth, Wales
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Puma 2.4 Heater Blower
Hi! Long time reader, first time poster...

Firstly a huge thanks to this forum, reading through gave me a valuable trove of knowledge I otherwise would not have had and made my first Defender purchase just before Christmas a lot less daunting.

I've stumbled into my first issue where the Haynes manual and other posts aren't quite fully answering my question. I have a problem where the heater blower fan only works in position 3. If I'm right in my understanding, position 0 is off, and 1 and 2 are controlled through a resistor pack and 3 bypasses the resistors and is essentially just a direct connection. For me the fan works in position 3 which leads me to believe that it's the resistor pack at fault, and not the blower switch control cluster. However what has stumped me is the fact that if I switch the A/C on I should get a fan in position 0, but I don't - is this because the resistor pack has gone, or should I be looking elsewhere? I just want to verify my thinking before ordering a new resistor pack. I'm confident that the motor is still working, as it is as I'd expect it to be in position 3.

Tl:dr - Fan only works in pos.3, is this the resistor pack? No fan in pos.0 when A/C switched on - is this also due to resistor pack, or should I be looking elsewhere in the A/C system too?

Many thanks! I hope to be a more valuable contributor in months/years to come, but for the time-being I am a new Defender owner, getting to grips with these quirky vehicles that we love.
Post #982531 15th Feb 2023 12:19pm
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 375

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
When the AC is on, it runs the fan as if you're on setting '1'.

So, assuming that the AC simply connects to the resistor pack in the same way as the switch, it's entirely expected that the AC will not switch on your fan if it only works on setting '3' (i.e. with the resistor pack bypassed.).

I don't see anything here that would suggest it's anything other than the resistor pack at fault.

Welcome to the forum, knowing their propensity for issues, I have no doubt we'll be seeing a lot of you Smile
Post #982545 15th Feb 2023 4:26pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1027

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Yes it's the resistor pack or it's wiring (position 3 bypasses the complete resistor pack and wires).
The missing AC confirms that because AC creates a connection bypassing the sliding switch (coming via SJ26 in the diagram).


Click image to enlarge


Post #982590 15th Feb 2023 10:22pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17205

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Note that the diagram above shows a LHD vehicle.
Post #982606 16th Feb 2023 9:43am
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1027

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
yes, sorry; should be obvious once you open the bonnet Laughing
Post #982624 16th Feb 2023 12:29pm
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JackLongley



Member Since: 05 Dec 2022
Location: Penarth, Wales
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Hi all,

Apologies for the late reply, I thought I had hit submit previously, but clearly not.

Purchased a new resistor pack (once I finally found one in stock), fitted it - which was a simple, yet somewhat fiddly job. Tested, and working perfectly! Thanks all! 2007, 110 Puma 2.4, Tonga Green, "Leonard"
Post #1007745 15th Sep 2023 7:08pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1027

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Thanks for the update!
Post #1007748 15th Sep 2023 7:32pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1027

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
A follow up from another Puma owner, providing details on the resistor:

In his case it was just a blown thermal fuse - the part that looks like a diode on top of the resistor pack.
Spec is 216°C, 10 A - https://www.conrad.com/en/p/eska-770-216-t...34099.html
He used a high-temperature solder.



Undeneath the green insulation there are two resistor wires wrapped around a ceramic body.
He admitted that he could just have measured them to see if they were intact, but he was curious. Smile
Post #1038981 2nd Jul 2024 6:58pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 357

Thanks for the feedback. Out of interest: Does the air conditioning still run (only at level three) when stage 1 is not possible to achive?
Post #1039001 3rd Jul 2024 8:48am
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1027

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Good question. I think he didn’t try, but from the diagram I’d say yes, as 3 is bypassing the resistor pack completely.

Also AFAIK AC and blower are completely independent systems, apart from SJ26 where AC connects a ground to stage 1 of the resistor to enforce a flow of air even if the slider switch is on 0 (that setting isn’t shown in the diagram).

I think the AC won’t know when the resistor pack has packed up. So it‘s a good idea to only run the AC with the blower on 3 then.
Post #1039003 3rd Jul 2024 9:15am
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