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| Blue Blood Member Since: 14 Jun 2022 Location: Shropshire Posts: 112   
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Hi All,
I am fairly new to the forum and I have realised I have not written anything in terms of a blog or a small build diary (even though I am always doing things to my 90...so like most defender owners). Anyhow, I would like to share with you all my small build diary for my defenders heater unit. Now as most of us know standard heaters from the factory in Brum were never up to much in the first place and LandRover being themselves decided it was never going to be a serviceable part (bar the heater matrix, the rubber seal and the foam from the air intake box. So it comes as no surprise 30 odd years later it may need a little looking at from a maintenance point of view, and so I started my journey to try and make the best defender heating system I could using the original components and a few upgrades here and there. I must at this stage say the mini-project is not complete yet so I will get as far as I can with this topic for now and everyone will be along for the ride at the same time as myself. So my starting point. As I already have a heater in the car that was the older style version with the heater matrix pipes bending down I purchased a second hand unit from ebay for the sum of £90 plus postage. It was in alright condition but as ever the tin worm was already setting in. So I stripped the whole unit apart, pop rivets and all to get deep inside the bowels of the beast!! Any how after alot of drilling, cold chiseling and angle grinding I was able to take each section apart to give it a thorough clean and took everything back to bare metal to get rid of any rust. As well as manual rust removal I also used evaporust to really get in all the nooks and crannies. Once that was done I primed everything up and sprayed it all.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Up to this point it is a fairly normal heater box resto, so then I started thinking I wanted an even longer life out of this thing and started uping my game on rust prevention. I used POR15 paint for the inside of the hamster cage once I had given it a rub down and dipped it in evaporust. I also did a bit of the non conventional of doing a thin bead of CT1 on the inside and the outside of where the metal comes together. This should keep water out and not allow it to pool and be trapped under and rot, I would also say that because I smoothed it out with my finger it reduced air drag resistance....but I doubt it. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge After doing this I also saw someone on ebay was selling a NOS motor and fan and although I had stripped mine down ready to paint it, I did test it and it did not work (possibly why it was a little cheaper on Ebay). Fretting not I carried on and kept my original motor mounting plate that I had sprayed up as the E-coat stuff generally does not last well. I also did not want metal on metal so I made a gasket out of EVA foam and assembled using new stainless nuts. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Once that part once complete I moved my attention to the main box. I used black headed rivets and I also used CT1 between where parts came together. This was to help with keeping everything together, keeping moisture out of corners/in between panels and also hopefully help reduce hot air leakage. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I also at this point used some 3M super strength spray glue to put some cut 2mm EVA foam on the heat control flap front and back, I also sprayed a bunch of white grease on the flaps rod top and bottom to help create a smoother mechanism and prevent rust a little. And here is the main box fully assembled. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The eagle eyed amongst you may have spotted that I had missed out putting the air limiter flap back in place... well this was because I will not be installing the normal operator. So on my quest for making this a better unit I could not stand the fact I could only have OFF or FULL SPEED AHEAD as my options when I turned my heater on. So I di what any normal person would do, I obsessed about it! and found the best thing to do was to purchase a variable speed switch from a well known Dutch company  . This meant the original air flow adjustment arm was obsolete (I know that I would possibly still get a constant small flow of air into the cab if I didn't install the flap back in but to be fair even with the flap back in there was always a constant slight air flow, which could have been a crap body to box seal, box to duct seal or the simple fact that I have the raised scoop thingys on top of my wings to allow more air in. Either way I wasn't too fussed and used some little rubber bungs to plug the holes up. If I need to add it in, for whatever reason in the future I can.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Now as for the mounting of the electrical box thingy from Landreiziger this has been spoken about in other feeds and everyone has their own preference. I decided to plonk it right on the top nearer the front for a few reasons. One it is high so if I were to go swimming in the defender it should hopefully be high enough it won't be touched, the second is it being nearer the front it hopefully is cooled a bit better (aparently it likes being at a cooler temperature when operatiing), thirdly the orientation allows for me to connect existing wires up more easily and get access to it, and finally it came with some thermal compound paste that you put between the unit and the box on bare metal to help cool it. Not to point out the obvious but I had just spent a hell of a load of time to strip this box apart to put it all back together again with a very nice looking semi-professional finish on the paint work, which I now had to strip back so that this thing can have some metal on metal contact... So I masked the section off and put some nail polish remover on a swap and took off a section of paint to expose bare metal... Click image to enlarge Now I know what you 're all thinking, bare metal will surely just rust and rot away in two shakes flat! and you would be correct, if it hadn't have been for the fact that on all the flat pieces that made up the box components (which includes the top part an inside flap and a back panel) weren't made by myself out of 0.9mm 430 grade stainless steel. You see it was possibly quicker for me when stripping the parts to cut new parts that were flat than it was to go to the hassle of stripping the old parts and painting both sides. With it all done I finally mounted the electrical unit to the box with some A4 stainless screws. Click image to enlarge And I added a reprint of the genuine parts sticker for the more standards item look 
Click image to enlarge Whilst I was at it I also cut a little piece of sheet to blank out the old coil thingy that wouldn't be needed with this new electrical bit of kit and used CT1 to seal and rivets to hold in place. Click image to enlarge So to surmise everything has been stripped, painted, pretty much assembled, the fan speed is being sorted but there are a few more hurdles to go. Namely the heater matrix, which for full disclosure, I will be using an Alisport unit (which I hear are fantastic as a standalone modification) and the amount of air being pushed through. Now I have got a new old fan but I will be fitting an inline Bilge blower fan in the ducting box/pipe section part thingy. This means I will have uprated heat, flow and flow regulation, depending on how it goes I may also get a set of those dash top air directors that point to your door windows too. The very last final thing to mention is during the whole mini project of this heater overhall there has been one thing that has bugged me and that is LandRover DO NOT class the heater as a serviceable part and due to this you have to spend close to £600 just to buy a new unit (which was lack-luster from stock to begin with anyway, hence the effort I have gone through so far). Now when i started tearing my second hand fairly descent box apart I went gun ho and did not realise that the arms on the top of the heater box were not available as a stand alone item. I am talking about the little arms that are push fitted on to the control flaps rods, which connect on to the control cables that feed into the cab either side of the instrument panel. One cannot simply purchase a replacement part. So I looked at what others had done, some have threaded the rod and popped two nuts on creating a compression fitting, others had talked about using epoxy putty, however I had stumbled upon a person who manufactures a version from galv mild steel. I promptly purchased a pair and received them in the post, they would do the trick but there were a few elements I was not happy about. The although it was produced from galvanised sheet it was cut meaning it would rust instantly on all edges including where the holes had been drilled and the hardware provided was all mild steel too. The other thing was the set I had ordered were both the same size when I had noticed on the original box the arms are different lengths meaning there would be different amounts of throw when installed on the flap (one had the ability to open wider, which i believe was the flap that regulated/restricted flow into the cab). So me being my normal level headed self thought well lets have a think and a crack at something. I got to designing using what else I had seen and aslo what I feel needed improvement. In the end I had mocked up some prototypes and had come up with a design which used a pinch bolt style system, in the two sizes needed for a standard box (even though im only using one myself, on account of doing away with the other) and all made out of 1.5mm thick 316 grade stainless steel (which is marine grade). I kept the design in an 'S' shape side profile as it would be easier for the manufacturing process and would also be better for transferring movement through the part (in line stress, although it wouldn't actually have all that much load go through it). Finally having as an 'S' shape meant there would be more room either side when mounted on the rod which allowed for a greater level of adjustment up or down to suit So after that long winded explanation of my design thoughts and feelings here is a picture of my prototype next to the original broken off parts.
Click image to enlarge and here they are mounted on a single flap rod Click image to enlarge and finally what they look like loosely attached on a painted up heater box almost fully assembled. Click image to enlarge As some of you might know, I actually really liked my idea and thought in the 20 odd years defenders had been produced and even more years since the production start something would have been available that did the job fully. So I did again what any normal person would do, I came on this forum to see if anyone wanted some of these produced for themselves. As nice as my prototypes were they were a little rough but they proved the design worked and I have since placed an order for a limited number of sets to be produced in 316 stainless steel with A4 hardware to finish them off. There has been some interest in these already and when I have them in hand from production (which I am hoping at the time of writing this will be in the next few weeks) I will put some photos up and fulfil the orders of the people which have already put dibs on a set. If there are any more people that are interested in a set based on what you have just seen please feel free to register your interest on the group buy thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic89749.html Winter is coming and these would be perfect little stocking fillers for all you defender (up to and including TD5's) owners  (sorry for the cheap plug, I am not in sales by trade quite clearly). Any help for me recouping some of the cost of production would be much appreciated.
As for this little build thread I will update it as I get further along with the project. Also if any oof you guys are interested I have also created a water resistant relay based headlight loom and a separate uprated water resistant Stebel horn loom ready to install if you wanted me to do a step by step creation build diary? Hope you guys liked the write up so far. Regards Blue |
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31st Oct 2023 2:19pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485
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Someones already producing them
Click image to enlarge |
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31st Oct 2023 3:36pm |
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| LJMARSDEN Member Since: 08 Jun 2021 Location: Nottingham Posts: 328 
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Could I get a link to that variable speed module gizmo thingy
Nice job too, Wish I had the patience...   4.0 V8 Defender 90
My Instagram |
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31st Oct 2023 6:15pm |
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| Blue Blood Member Since: 14 Jun 2022 Location: Shropshire Posts: 112
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I can’t seem to find it again on the website but I’m sure if you ping them an email they’ll let you have a link. The product is this one: Elektronische Ventilator Aansturing
Hope that helps somewhat 😊 |
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31st Oct 2023 6:52pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842 
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https://landreiziger.nl/product/elektronis...g-product/ 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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1st Nov 2023 8:36am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I hesitate to find fault as your work is great, but are you sure about the positioning of the control module? You say that it's susceptible to heat but you've stuck it to a metal box that's supposed to get hot with a compound intended to transfer heat
 Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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1st Nov 2023 8:52am |
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| Blue Blood Member Since: 14 Jun 2022 Location: Shropshire Posts: 112
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Yeah thats what I though but apparently thats what is advised on the fitting instructions. In fact on the instructions they say stick it on the side which would surely be warmer???
Anyways I have seen someone else had mounted it on the top and I actually thought it makes sense as there is a sheet of metal inside which holds the flap in place before the top piece (the one I mounted on). So it makes it sort of like a second skin, kind of like a flask
I think it should all be good but if there were any problems when it is all fitted and working i'll report back. |
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1st Nov 2023 8:57am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Fair enough
Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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1st Nov 2023 9:01am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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If there is concern about heat transfer, could you stand the module off the heater box using small plastic spacers between the underside of the module and heater box allowing air flow underneath? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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1st Nov 2023 9:31am |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866 
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I wonder if there is scope to fit an AC evaporator in the heater box in addition to the heater core? Ideally you would need to redirect the air intake such that it draws air from the cabin, but that's not insurmountable.. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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1st Nov 2023 9:50am |
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| Blue Blood Member Since: 14 Jun 2022 Location: Shropshire Posts: 112
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An interesting theory and I think it could work well potentially. You should go be it a go Shroppy and let us know ☺️.
Just to let everyone know on another note production for the lever arms starts Monday so hopefully should have some in hand soon ready purchase. |
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2nd Nov 2023 8:43pm |
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| Blue Blood Member Since: 14 Jun 2022 Location: Shropshire Posts: 112
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Just a small update on this as I move forward on the project.
I made a card template which I transferred and cut the top/bottom of the retaining plates. I then used 15mm EVA foam inside the box on the one side to wedge the matrix against for an air tight fix. I have also got new seals for the box to body and the intake duct to box. Everything has now been painted up and assembled ready for install when I get my car back from the garage (a little turbo problem just getting looked at). Due to my defender having the old type of heater, with the downward pointing heater matrix inlet and outlet pipes I had to get new hoses and I opted for some black silicone ones from a UK manufacturer (ebay purchase). I am just awaiting some new shiney stainless hose clips to affix the hoses. Anyways here is the box all assembled for peoples viewing pleasure
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I put some wedges of EVA foam and then a slightly spongier closed cell foam at the bottom to cradle the matrix and hopefully dampen any potential movement. Click image to enlarge Another quick detail when assembling, I just ran a bead of CT1 around the squirrel cage housing and the main box to prevent fan blow loss. Every little helps. I also am hoping it helps keep some of the potential moisture in future out of places I don't want it sitting (i.e between steel parts). Click image to enlarge And also a picture of the slightly modified inline fan to install in the intake duct. Should hopefully give the heater system an extra kick to get some warm air through the car. Once wired in with the variable speed controller it should be mustard. Click image to enlarge As for the lever control arms I have had cut, the blanks are ready to form and I will let interested parties know when they are ready to send out. I have also received the A4 stainless hardware to go with them. I'll keep you all updated. |
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21st Nov 2023 7:48am |
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| LJMARSDEN Member Since: 08 Jun 2021 Location: Nottingham Posts: 328
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Looks like a nice job
4.0 V8 Defender 90
My Instagram |
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21st Nov 2023 11:00am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Where are you planning to put the Turbo 3000?
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21st Nov 2023 11:17am |
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