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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 333

Low power between 4th and 5th
Morning, this happened yesterday, in a recently purchased Defender Tdci, lost power between 4th and 5th and then engine management light came on.

Any one ever had this? Cheers
Post #1023288 2nd Feb 2024 8:16am
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mwestcrew



Member Since: 09 Dec 2019
Location: South Warwickshire
Posts: 260

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Baltic Blue
Between 4th and 5th is almost certainly just a coincidence.

Need to read fault codes. 2011 130 Utility Body
2005 110 Van
Post #1023305 2nd Feb 2024 10:59am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
2.2 or 2.4? And can you read the fault codes? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1023306 2nd Feb 2024 11:00am
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 333

It’s 2.2, it’s stood for nearly 12 months.

What device would you advise to read the codes please
Post #1023312 2nd Feb 2024 11:29am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2019

United Kingdom 
For basic diagnostics, code reading and clearing you are best to get an ELM327 Bluetooth reader that connects to your phone plus a phone app.

I would recommend either the OBDLink MX+ or vLinker MC+, Plus the torque app (free) or torque pro app (circa £4) for your phone if it’s an android phone.

The OBDLink MX+ is about £130 (scoobyworld) and the vLinker MC+ is about £54 (Amazon) both do all generic OBD2 codes but can also do GM and ford specific code reading.
Noting you can use these on ANY vehicle, not just a defender and having the GM and ford specific code reading in addition to basic reading is great if you or your friends and family also have a ford or GM vehicle.

In essence the vLinker MC+ is a quality Chinese copy of the OBDLink MX+. But at half the price many go for it.

Ps - You can get very cheap ELM327 readers, however I would not connect them to my vehicle as they are connecting and communicating with your expensive ECU’s via the OBD2 port , which mean there is a potential risk of damage. Many have used cheaper ones with no problem, but personally I won’t take the risk to save £30 -£40.


Re your fault, the codes will give a good indication on where the issue is. If the vehicle has not been used for 12 months it could be a sticking EGR or turbo linkage, which could clear with use / lubricant. However it could be fuel related or even a split hose or intercooler. We will know what track to follow once you post the codes on here. Noting do NOT clear any codes before you have made a note of each one of them.
Post #1023314 2nd Feb 2024 11:52am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Car Scanner is also a good app.

Works on my 2.2 with a cheapish ELM327 wifi communication. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1023322 2nd Feb 2024 1:09pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 333

Will try and get some codes on Monday.

I have read that if the fuel is low (as in on fumes) the engine, turbo etc it goes into a sort of “shut down” mode.
Post #1023327 2nd Feb 2024 2:03pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2019

United Kingdom 
Re the fuel being low, yes there is a built in strategy for low fuel, however i don’t think it illuminates the amber check engine light.

See https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic73856...t=low+fuel
Post #1023329 2nd Feb 2024 2:57pm
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mwestcrew



Member Since: 09 Dec 2019
Location: South Warwickshire
Posts: 260

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Baltic Blue
If you have a Windows laptop you can run Forscan which is free software designed for Fords. It can do all the engine stuff. You will need a cable from Amazon or EBay. But they are only about £15 IIRC.
Lots of live data too. 2011 130 Utility Body
2005 110 Van
Post #1023333 2nd Feb 2024 3:15pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2019

United Kingdom 
Forescan is good on the 2.4, however I think it is limited on the 2.2
Post #1023334 2nd Feb 2024 3:20pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 333

And as I have just found out the fuel light doesn’t work on the dash, from the previous owner.

My conclusion is it’s low on fuel.

Regards the fuel gauge on the dash, that’s another matter!!!!!
Post #1023339 2nd Feb 2024 3:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20413

United Kingdom 
If it is you might need it to be primed within fuel, Pumas are a bit tricky when it comes to the fuel system and best not to ever let them run out.

Lowest I’ve even gone is between a quarter and empty and I’m not keen on doing that. Not only that it can then pick up the detritus from the bottom of the fuel tank and fuel filter likely needing a change also.
Diesel typically has a 6month life I believe as fresh, but it will run after that but it’s not good for other components and then you get this stuff called diesel bug and also sludge.
They can be parked up a long time, but best to start up I think at least once a month so it doesn’t just completely sit idle.

That’s just me, but we all have our own thoughts and ways of doing things. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1023341 2nd Feb 2024 4:26pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2019

United Kingdom 
Does the fuel gauge work normally, and it’s just the amber fuel light , a small round amber dot, that does not come up when fuel gauge shows very low ?
Post #1023342 2nd Feb 2024 4:26pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17417

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
custom90steve wrote:
... Not only that it can then pick up the detritus from the bottom of the fuel tank ...


How? The fuel.pickup is always at the bottom of the tank so it really cannot make any difference! It's a very popular Internet myth which doesn't stand up to logical analysis. Very Happy

Certainly on a 2.4 it shouldn't be possible to run it completely out of fuel since the ECM is programmed to mimic fuel starvation and eventually kill the engine before the system actually runs dry. It will initially misfire, then stall, and if I remember can be restarted three times before it declines to start, but it is all smoke and mirrors since the fuel lines are still charged with fuel. The rationale is that it is possible then to put fuel in the tank without the need to bleed.

I haven't tried this (it would probably be asking for trouble) but it is the documented scheme.

Also if the tank sender is telling the ECM/IPAC that the tank is empty, even if it isn't really, the engine should not start.
Post #1023346 2nd Feb 2024 4:39pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20413

United Kingdom 
Then I stand corrected, is it at the very lower most point?

It seems that the higher fuel level seems to drop quicker than the lower level to me but might just be a placebo.
The 3/4 to full seems to come down a lot quicker than 3/4 to 1/2 and below.
Tend to end up sticking around the 3/4 to just below half most the time but that maybe because I put in a fixed amount all the time.

Then there is the fact that 90 and 110 fuel tanks are different sizes, though the design is pretty much similar I’d imagine.
So I understand 90 fuel tanks are not as easy access as a 110. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1023347 2nd Feb 2024 4:53pm
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