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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Transit clutch and Output shaft change, couple of questions.
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, fit an Ashcroft ATB ! Very Happy
Post #1031508 14th Apr 2024 11:46am
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 163

Germany 
Haha, I'll do what is most needed for now Laughing

I looked into it, making the swap with the ATB seems above my skills... Or I'd probably need more than 5-6 days Rolling with laughter

Are you happy with your transit sachs 4x4 clutch? or still not replaced? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1031511 14th Apr 2024 12:21pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Still not had time to fit it, which means the last genuine LR clutch has now done about 130k, which could be a record.
Post #1031527 14th Apr 2024 3:05pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 163

Germany 
Okey. I was asking about that because the member that was recommending the Transit clutch also mention the Master cylinder. Just wanted to know if the change was a must or only if the MC is giving bad symptoms..

Congrats on the 130k Wink Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1031530 14th Apr 2024 3:27pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3425

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Waka56 wrote:
Anything you'd do once the transfer case is down? Mine is most likely leaking a bit.


I did not do much other than clean it and helicoil some already damaged threads. I did remove the bottom cover to have a good inspect inside, and to ensure that the studs I was gluing in were not touching the intermediate gear. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1031536 14th Apr 2024 3:47pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 163

Germany 
Thanks, I might get some helicoils in case.

Do you know if the Sachs master cylinder 6284 600 602 is better than the original one (Part number STC500100)? I am buying from LOF directly, and the original is like a third of the price. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1031538 14th Apr 2024 4:31pm
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 583

England 
I’ve done a spigot bearing today
I knock the back out of them with a punch . Push an m8 bolt in wedge it in to one side with a couple of wooden dowels tapped in so the head sits behind the bearing. I then put a big socket over the bolt and then a washer and nut and simply wind the bearing out. 5 min job zero cost.
Post #1031543 14th Apr 2024 4:55pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 163

Germany 
Thanks for the tip, not sure I'll take any risks tho Embarassed
Done it on a Tdci? ground work?

I went for the ashcroft output shaft, you guys made sense Smile Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1031546 14th Apr 2024 5:05pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3425

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Re the master cylinder, I do not know which brand is better… they all leak eventually - rebuilt and replaced so many on my Landrover in 30 years of ownership.
On my 90 that I am sloooowly restoring, I went for dot5 fluid (silicone), at least when it leaks it will not wreck the bulkhead paint. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1031554 14th Apr 2024 6:44pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Waka56 wrote:
Okey. I was asking about that because the member that was recommending the Transit clutch also mention the Master cylinder. Just wanted to know if the change was a must or only if the MC is giving bad symptoms..

Congrats on the 130k Wink


Personally I wouldn't bother doing anything to the MC unless it is actually leaking or defective. I can see no reason why using a Transit driven plate and cover would make any difference - the only possible difference would be if the springs in the cover were significantly different and I have never heard that suggested.

FYI my master cylinder is the original from the factory (275k miles or so) even though I think I am on the 6th driven plate. No 6 has however done much better than numbers 1 through 5.
Post #1031556 14th Apr 2024 7:33pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
The master lasts a long time, I only replaced mine because it was possible it was an issue which it wasn’t so decided I may as well anyway.
But I would not fuss over replacing them, they are normally okay for many clutches as BW mentioned.
Slaves are more common to need doing by far.

With mine being a 2.4, it’s worth noting that the later 2.2 slave cylinder can be used on it along with associated bleed valve etc for the 2.2.
So 2.2 parts are retrofittable to a 2.4 regarding the slave, and pipework, bleed valve etc.

Spigot bearing is required to be replaced, flywheels seem to be very trouble free in my opinion.
Lubing the output shaft splines as BW suggested years ago seems to keep the standard output shaft in A1 condition.
I may be lucky in that there isn’t any alignment issues, some have a lot of issues with that or that they are dry splines from the factory or both.

I’m using a Genuine LR master, with the Transit clutch as of now, with the later 2.2 Gen slave.

It’s rare to have hydraulic leaks I think, if there is, it’s usually internally with the slave diaphragm and that’s hard to detect.
I know I had one that had a pinhole leak in it once.

I bought the Transit clutch from Autodoc (was in Germany) for delivery to the U.K., all was good, but,
I was surprised by the time it took to arrive, I think it was near two and a half weeks almost.
Longer than I expected to be honest, but, it was packaged well and all present and correct.

I hope this info maybe of use to others, if perhaps a guide anwyay.
I’m pleased with the clutch, feels good and I’m pretty sure it slips less from new than LR I feel it’s more HD without being heavy. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1031558 14th Apr 2024 7:54pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 163

Germany 
Thanks a lot for the feed back. Also bought the clutch in Germany, but I live here.. Ordered the 2.2 parts, spigot bearing from the UK, Ashcroft upgraded shaft to. I did not order the master cylinder, can always do it later.

I haven't ordered anything else yet, not sure what bearing/joints are supposed to be replaced when reassembling. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)


Last edited by Waka56 on 15th Apr 2024 6:55am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1031560 14th Apr 2024 8:10pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1031570 14th Apr 2024 8:57pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3425

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Interesting to see that you can get good life our of your clutch hydraulic systems Thumbs Up
Guess it has to do with the local driving, where gear changes are much more frequent. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1031587 15th Apr 2024 4:56am
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 583

England 
Waka56 wrote:
Thanks for the tip, not sure I'll take any risks tho Embarassed
Done it on a Tdci? ground work?

I went for the ashcroft output shaft, you guys made sense Smile
.

Yes 2.2 tdci on the ground

It really is easy as long as the bolt is pressed to one side keeping the head behind the bearing.
Post #1031715 15th Apr 2024 9:34pm
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