 | Home > Technical > Changed Subject: Radiator Leak - 2.4 tdci - Questions |
 
|
|
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804   
|
Hello all.
going to do some cooling system jobs this weekend. Going to fit the BAS Intercooler and some new hoses. Also a new AC compressor. Anything I need to consider from a technical POV for those two? Also, how much coolant will I need to refill the radiator system, it's been leaking a bit and I haven't figured out where the leak is? And what's the go-to coolant these days? And whilst I'm in there, what should I check for in/around the rad to work out where the leak is? Can't see anything obvious on the ground etc. Ta  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey Last edited by Grenadier on 13th Mar 2024 2:42pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
13th Mar 2024 11:58am |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997 
|
Re coolant, if I recall correctly the system holds 13 litres of coolant , however if draining from the fuel cooler (if you have one) or the oil cooler if you don’t have a fuel cooler, then a couple of litres will remain in the cooling radiator. So unless you remove the radiator bottom hose you won’t need a full 13 litres.
The coolant LR use is Delo XLC , if using a concentrate it’s a 50/50 mix with deionised water. Its cheaper than getting it from LR, but can be hard to find. https://www.texacolubricants.com/en_uk/hom...olant.html Ps I’m assuming you are changing some coolant hoses, else you should be able to fit the Intercooler and intercooler hoses without needing to drain coolant. When I fitted a new intercooler on my 2.2 I was also replacing the main coolant radiator, so did replace all my coolant at the same time. Having the radiator out did allow the lower fan cowl to be removed which did help a lot in fitting the turbo to intercooler hose. It also helped in fitting the IC between the aircon condenser and the coolant radiator. Last edited by Ianh on 13th Mar 2024 12:51pm. Edited 2 times in total |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 12:20pm |
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
|
Thanks Ian.
How do I know if I do/don't have a fuel cooler and/or do/don't have an oil cooler? Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 12:28pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
|
You will have an oil cooler, it’s the part the oil filter is connected to. The fuel cooler is attached to the nearside chassis at the front near the engine bay.
See diagram. Top diagram is fuel cooler, lower one shows just the fuel pipe without the cooler https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...mbly_45019 If you have the lower one then you need to drain from the oil cooler coolant pipe, if you have the upper one you can drain the coolant from there which is less messy , noting two of the pipes are fuel and two are for coolant, I’m not sure which is which but you should be able to tell by looking at it / tracing the pipes. Last edited by Ianh on 13th Mar 2024 12:43pm. Edited 2 times in total |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 12:38pm |
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
|
I have a fuel cooler.
Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 12:40pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17363 
|
You will definitely have an oil cooler, it's the thing that the oil filter housing is attached to. The fuel cooler will be on the inside face of the LH chassis rail more-or-less alongside the bellhousing, it's a flat square thing (in a surprisingly vulnerable position) with four black plastic pipes connected. Two are coolant, two are the return fuel lines to the tank. It is the lowest point of the cooling system which is why it is the LR-preferred drain point.
It was deleted on later EC-spec vehicles as a cost saving exercise being unnecessary. As your vehicle appears to be a 2011 2.4 I would expect it to have a fuel cooler. |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 12:42pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
|
Totally agree, I was thinking of my region, I.e Essex , where it does not get that cold, or hot, and no mountains. 
Here is some good info on application of Delo XLC https://cglapps.chevron.com/sdspds/PDSDeta...Format=PDF |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 1:01pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20333
|
Motul orange Autocool OAT pre mix in mine, meets LR specs and pour and go.
Follow the WSM drain, and bleed procedure and you’ll be fine, make sure no debris gets in pipes or inlets so disposable gloves work well as temporary caps if needed. Personally I think the thermostat drain is better than the oil cooler pipes, admittedly it’s not the lowest point, but the choice is up to you I’ve used both before. I really wouldn’t skimp on coolant antifreeze specs, in this country sub zero temps are more likely a problem than cooling. And the extreme expansion and contraction you can get, you’ll get things like leaking waterpump gaskets etc. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 1:11pm |
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
|
Well, thanks all for the top tips. Rooted around the entire coolant system. All pipes in good nick, no tears, bone dry.
Then came across the Oil and Fuel coolers. Covered in coolant. As far as I can tell, it's dripping from the Oil Cooler ONTO the pipes of the fuel cooler. The source (again, as far as I can tell), does not seem to be higher than the Oil cooler, (i.e., it doesn't seem to be dripping onto, and then off the oil cooler). And it is dripping at a rate of one big raindrop's worth, as per the photo, every 8-10secs. So what do we think it is? What should I look for or test next?  Click image to enlarge Also, whilst underneath and rooting around, I noticed that these pipes look corroded and I guess would be worth changing? However, as far as I can tell from the LRW diagram, the part codes are unlisted and the name is described as 'Serviced in Assembly Only'. Any thoughts? Click image to enlarge Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 2:05pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
|
On the oil cooler coolant drip, I can’t tell from the picture, but is that the pipe connecting to the oil cooler thermostat ? If so then that can leak and the thermostat can be easily replaced, see another very recent topic on this issue https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic91426.html
Those other corroded pipes, again I can’t tell where they are from the picture, but if running under and parallel to the radiator then they look like power steering pipes. Last edited by Ianh on 13th Mar 2024 2:43pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 2:41pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20333
|
That clip on the first photo is not fitted concentric to the housing, that’s likely why it’s leaking unless it’s coming from above that.
If you are around that area, it’s worth checking the bottom of the waterpump as that’s where mine leaked but you can only tell from underneath as it collects on the lower most edge. Careful not to get anything in eyes. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
||
|
13th Mar 2024 2:42pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17363
|
The 'O'-ring seal in the redundant oil cooler thermostat housing is legendary as a source of leaks when it perishes, it is possible that it is the source of that leak (it's hard to be sure from the photo).
|
||
|
13th Mar 2024 4:07pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
