DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Front output seal

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Puma (Tdci) > Front output seal

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

DJow

Member Since: 29 Oct 2023
Location: Yorkshire Dales
Posts: 14

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green

Front output seal

The front output seal on my transfer box is leaking so I’m going to have a bash at fixing it myself.
Does anyone have any specific do’s or do not’s whilst doing this? It looks fairly straightforward.
My main question is will i have to drop the oil out or could i have the car inclined to hold the oil in and top up after?
I’m looking at buying the rubber seal, fiber washer and a new nut. Though Gwynn Lewis do a full new flange kit with all the seals for £60, is it worth buying the whole assembly at that price?
Thanks

28th Mar 2024 7:42pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

The transfer box on the Puma is already nose up, so front output is a bit higher than the rear. Doing it on an incline would help loosing less oil, nut be sure you are working safe.

You will probably find that the splines are glued, but easy enough to pull the flange with a 2 or 3 legged puller.

At £60 I would buy the complete kit. The old seal may have worn the sealing face on the old flange.

Clean up all old residue of Loctite from the male splines. I still like to re apply new loctite when fitting, but is not really necessary as long as you use the correct felt washer under the nut/washer.

It is an easy job. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

28th Mar 2024 10:12pm

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1059

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White

get the right spanner for the nuts 9/16 ring, not enough room for open end or standard socket and you will round the nuts easily which will take you a lot longer to complete the job.

Or you get the 'special socket' which works as well but is a bit of a fiddle.

For sure you want to lift one front wheel so you can spin the wheel to position the tool (then block the wheel with your foot so you can apply force)

29th Mar 2024 7:35am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17387

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If you use a ring on the shaft side of the flange and an OE on the box side you have full control without having to use your foot as a chock.

29th Mar 2024 9:27am

DJow

Member Since: 29 Oct 2023
Location: Yorkshire Dales
Posts: 14

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated!

I realised i will have to drain the oil anyway as I have no way of knowing how much is in there!

2nd Apr 2024 7:06am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

This is a good read for oil qty vs level... although it also does not hurt to drain the oil... do inspect the oil however for metal.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56771.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

2nd Apr 2024 7:43am

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum