Home > Puma (Tdci) > Cubby box removal |
|
|
Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1598 |
mole grips on the under side, some good penetrating fluid eg plus gas not wd40 and off you go
|
||
14th Jan 2023 5:27pm |
|
lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 209 |
I recently had the same problem and concur with Mdm using mole grips on the underside but this only worked for one of the screws/rivnuts. I ended up drilling the head off the offending bolt thus enabling the removal of the cubby then grinding off the head of the rivnut from the top (inside the vehicle) then fitting a new rivnut.
NB. The remaining hole was an odd size for the rivnuts I had but a hex rivnut fitted snugly after a quick file of the hole......Job done. I also nipped up the existing rivnuts with my rivnut tool to retighten them. Make sure you put some coppaslip on the bolts prior to refitting. |
||
26th Jan 2023 11:51pm |
|
914PAW Member Since: 01 Feb 2021 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 14 |
Sorry to resurrect this thread but I have encountered the same problem, I’m trying to fit a sub/amp to the back of my cubby box so went to remove it and three of the four retaining bolts are spinning. I note you say to hold the nuts from underneath, do you mean from under the car or is there a way to get grips on them from inside the car? Deeply frustrating as it’s one of “those five minute jobs” on a defender! It’s a 2010 puma 90.
Thanks in advance. |
||
6th Feb 2024 2:36pm |
|
Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997 |
It’s from underneath the vehicle I’m afraid, and far easier with two people, noting get lots of plusgas on the bolt threads from under the vehicle.
|
||
6th Feb 2024 3:16pm |
|
lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 209 |
I concur with IANH, a couple of mine came out but another had to be gripped with mole grips from underneath the vehicle, a pain when working solo, easier with two. On one I had to drill the head off the bolt from inside then once the cubby was removed I had to grind the flat top off the rivnut to remove it and then replace with a new one. Mines a 2010 90 also!
(See my post above.) |
||
6th Feb 2024 4:33pm |
|
914PAW Member Since: 01 Feb 2021 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 14 |
Thanks both, another cracking design “feature”, put the end of the bolts outside in the elements, not a surprise they rust in place. I had a quick look underneath and didn’t spot them before posting but will get a light under there tomorrow and have a proper look. Thanks for the advice. I’ll let you know how it goes.
|
||
6th Feb 2024 4:44pm |
|
custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20318 |
Or get rid of the cubby box base, then get the base and centre plate out and then make a new cubby box base.
That’s why I never have and never will use Rivnuts. Mine has two pieces of timber bolted though the plate, and then the cubby box base screws down onto the two pieces of timber. No rivnuts.. Worth soundproofing that plate as well. Beware that there is fuel pipes not far behind there more towards the centre bulkhead… ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
||
6th Feb 2024 4:49pm |
|
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis