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ijefferyes

Member Since: 11 Apr 2020
Location: Radstock
Posts: 35

2002 Defender 90 2.5 TD CSW Zambezi Silver

TD5 Dipped Beam Stopped Working - Whilst converting to LED

I am trying to convert my 2002 TD5 from standard headlights to LED Lynx Halo headlights.

Took the front apart last weekend and then this weekend tried to install the new lights.

After only plugging in one of the LED headlights, I switched on the lights to check they were working. At this point, I didn't get any dipped beam light. So, I plugged the standard light back in but still didn't get any dipped beam and strangely neither front light works.

Full beam comes on from both sides, but no dipped beam on either.

Tried swapping both headlights to the LED lights. Still no dipped beams, but full beam works.

So, what have I done?

Checked fuses and all look good. Rest of the lights, side lights, indicators, fog light seem to be fine. Unfortunately, didn't think to check that the headlights worked today before making changes, but they worked last weekend.

I can't see a dip/dim fuse under the wing, although there does seem to be a plug, which goes live when the slide lights come on.

Click image to enlarge

27th Jan 2024 8:36pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

If you’ve tried both sets of headlights, then there is an issue with the dipped circuit not the lights.
The ground is fine as you have main beam.

Be sure to check the fuse for dipped, if that is in-tact then have a look at the light switch and main beam stalk.
Check the power on those, check for any burnt out contacts or damaged contacts.
Identity which circuits are which can bridge if need be to see if it is the switch or stalk at fault.
If either is replace.

If those circuits seem okay, see if there is any aftermarket lighting loom fitted for the headlights.
If there is, there could be a supply fuse gone there or trigger missing from the existing loom.

You may have accidentally popped a fuse somewhere, and if that is additional to the LR fuse box that may be the culprit.

I seem to remember, though don’t quote me exactly but I seem to remember although the stalk is for main beam switching, the dipped from the dipped and sidelight switch goes though those contacts.
Those contacts can get worn, damaged, or burn out.

A Multimeter will help, some little clip on test leads may be useful too just only use them momentarily due to current if you use the standard headlight.

Personally I’d check it all with the engine running, that’s the scenario you would be using all the lighting.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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27th Jan 2024 10:24pm

ijefferyes

Member Since: 11 Apr 2020
Location: Radstock
Posts: 35

Thanks for the feedback.

Looking in the fuse box if I am reading the symbols correct, it suggests there is a fuse per side, both dipped and full i.e. four fuses. Will get a picture tomorrow.

Again it would be weird if I had tripped the fuses for both sides, without having touched one of the sides.

The wiring loom is also unmolested.

I think as you suggest, time to check the switch and get the multi-meter out. The switch has gone before, but long time ago. Then it was more intermittent than this.

Ian

27th Jan 2024 11:28pm

ijefferyes

Member Since: 11 Apr 2020
Location: Radstock
Posts: 35

All sorted. Didn't realise the TD5 could also have the relay behind the dash. Have bypassed this and it now works!

28th Jan 2024 2:56pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

Glad to hear you managed to get it sorted out.

Even though you have gone LED, which will extend the light switches life span greatly.
Don’t discount the idea of fitting an additional lighting loom, as that can reduce the current through the switch even further down to under 500mA. Or 0.5A and lower.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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28th Jan 2024 8:10pm

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