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Scotm

Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey

Wet / frozen Air Filter P0101 DTC

Over the past couple of weeks up here in NE Scotland we have been alternating from heavy rain to heavy frost.

On a couple of very cold mornings the engine management light has come on when pulling away from my drive and my Ultra-Guage has shown the P0101 code. After resetting the DTC it has then stayed off but felt a little under powered before clearing up.

I have silicon hoses, a Serck intercooler and cannot find/hear any splits. It doesn’t have a remap.

When trying to find the problem, I have found the air filter to be quite wet and therefore wondered if it was frozen would it cause the error code?

What can be done to stop water getting into the air filter? Not really wanting a snorkel. I had done the airbox mod of removing the cyclone piece a few years ago (without cutting the airbox) and could easily replace it if that would help.

I have changed the air filter this weekend and was towing a trailer without any issue.

I have owned the defender (2012 2.2tdci) for 10 years, this is the first time had this type of issue.

Any thoughts?

Last edited by Scotm on 19th Jan 2024 3:02pm. Edited 1 time in total

11th Dec 2023 9:18am

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1034

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White

I would think since this is incidental with the weather, the cheaper option is to have a spare air filter, you could even just keep the old one inside to let it dry out and rotate them out..

11th Dec 2023 9:24am

Balvaig

Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 730

2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey

Check that the drain bung is clear. Often block with leaves.

11th Dec 2023 10:00am

piechipsandpeas

Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: Albany, Western Australia
Posts: 208

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver

The cyclone piece on the entry to the airbox is designed as a water separator. I know a lot of owners have removed it to improve ariflow but not sure how effective it is as a water separator or if removing it increases the likelihood of a wet air filter.

11th Dec 2023 11:36am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5668

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Driving in high levels of spray such as motorways I’ve always found soaks the air filter on the standard air intake. Keeping the cyclone will help with this, not cure but will help.

11th Dec 2023 12:29pm

Scotm

Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

Just updating this post as think I have got to the bottom of it and wanted to help anyone else with a stubborn P0101 code. I couldn't find any reference to this being a cause when searching the net for solutions.

My engine light started coming on more and more often so gave up and took it to Airley Motors who are a diesel specialist in Aberdeen.

After a smoke test and then detailed diagnosis using their latest computer they spotted that the air intake temperature sensor was showing a constant -40C.

On the 2.2 this is the sensor on the left hand side of the engine in the metal bit of the intercooler hose going to the air intake manifold. This was replaced and problem solved. For good measure a new MAF was fitted as was still on original after 12 years and 121k.

Finger crossed this has it sorted. Certainly ran fine on way back from the garage.

Last edited by Scotm on 20th Jan 2024 9:15am. Edited 1 time in total

19th Jan 2024 3:11pm

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1034

Thanks for following up and closing with a conclusion

Some good troubleshooting from the garage side. Frankly not spectacularly complicated, but poor diagnostics and standard parts canon approach is more than often the the case.

Looks like you have a good garage there

19th Jan 2024 4:43pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20300

I’ve never had an issue with damp filters and have the cyclone removed, I have the pipework sealed but the drain open at the base of the air box so water can get out.

Yes, it defeats the point, it could be sealed right up as well all the same, but, I don’t intend on wading many ft deep in water regardless.
If you seal up the entire system with no drain left, you could end up filling up the air box with water…
In particular by drawn I condensation and water spray and build up into a puddle or more in the air box base.
In the location of the air box drain hole, an IP68 removable drain plug would be nice.
Something that you could carry with you if needed and easily take out the rest of the time.
Bearing in mind this is the factory air box and pipework I’m talking about here which isn’t ideal for sealing up anyway.
The nugget stuff system is better for that I would imagine, but isn’t something I see much point in getting myself though I don’t doubt it is good.
Before I got the Safari snorkel, I always found the air filter to be much dirtier with the factory air inlet and more damp. I’ve never had a single nuisance DTC come up with it either.

The issue in my option is the location of the factory air inlet is very exposed to extremely water ridden air and mist spray, it draws it in and with deep water other traffic can splash that right up the side. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

19th Jan 2024 4:50pm

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