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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 569

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
Range Rover Classic
I know this is a bit off topic on a Defender forum. However, I'm considering add a RRC to my fleet. My wife struggles with a manual gearbox so a RRC with an auto would be OK.

Anyone else here run a RRC? Any hints and tips on buying one?
Post #1020396 7th Jan 2024 3:46pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1628

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Buy one that someone else has already spent the money on. Rust on the body shell is the big one so poke it everywhere to check.
Post #1020400 7th Jan 2024 3:58pm
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Mike c



Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 930

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
What about a Discovery 2 auto? There are still good ones to be had without the RRC collector premium.

I appreciate its not quite the same thing but a much better built vehicle with modern classic LR appeal these days... 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW
2002 Discovery 2 td5 GS (gone)
1994 Defender 90 300Tdi CSW (gone)
Post #1020402 7th Jan 2024 4:14pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1628

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Hard to get a D2 that’s not got rotten sills and chassis. The manuals are much better, the autos are gutless I find
Post #1020409 7th Jan 2024 5:11pm
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paul 123



Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: norwich
Posts: 84

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Caledonian Blue
i have a 1971 2 door 200tdi manual converted to a van . its a good workhorse but if it can rust it will.sills complete body side frames bulkheads and inner wings all like to rot. inner wings are available later cars were welded so harder to change.
Post #1020410 7th Jan 2024 5:20pm
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Mike c



Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 930

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
The other option of course would be an auto conversion on your Defender.

Sorry that's not helping if you are set on an RRC, I can see the appeal Thumbs Up 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW
2002 Discovery 2 td5 GS (gone)
1994 Defender 90 300Tdi CSW (gone)
Post #1020411 7th Jan 2024 5:23pm
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Jamie1992



Member Since: 26 Jan 2019
Location: Haxey
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
I had a 300tdi version for a short while a couple of years ago (soft dash model). It was a brilliant car regularly did 30mpg+ on longer runs, was nice and quite with a relatively nice auto box ( nowhere near as good as a modern car but very good for a 30 year old Land Rover). Wasn’t sluggish either, only sold it as prices sky rocketed in covid so I was able to make a nice bit out of it, I think prices may have settled down abit now.

Like any Land Rover just watch for rust.



Click image to enlarge
Post #1020414 7th Jan 2024 5:36pm
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DAZ110



Member Since: 06 Dec 2007
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 2039

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Barolo Black
Wish I hadn’t sold mine. Big Cry
Post #1020419 7th Jan 2024 6:09pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 5183

United Kingdom 
Re: Range Rover Classic
steveww wrote:
I know this is a bit off topic on a Defender forum. However, I'm considering add a RRC to my fleet. My wife struggles with a manual gearbox so a RRC with an auto would be OK.

Anyone else here run a RRC? Any hints and tips on buying one?


Give Grafty a PM, he owns one Thumbs Up Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #1020425 7th Jan 2024 6:38pm
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 751

United Kingdom 
NickMc wrote:
Buy one that someone else has already spent the money on. Rust on the body shell is the big one so poke it everywhere to check.

Well not everywhere as quite a lot of it is aluminium alloy.
Post #1020475 7th Jan 2024 10:58pm
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1629

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Chassis, Bulkhead, side frames, rear goalpost frame, floor, Inner wings, front panel, door frames, bonnet, rear tailgate. All steel, all rust. The only aluminium parts are the outer wings, door skins and roof, floor on some early models.
Unless you want a project I would buy one that’s been properly done. I rebuilt one over 30 years ago, it was rotten as a pear, took me 2 years to completely rebuild everything, when you could still just about buy new side frames. They are lovely but massive money pits if you buy the wrong one. Good luck with your search.
Post #1020500 8th Jan 2024 10:15am
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 751

United Kingdom 
I think people are painting a somewhat unfair or glass half empty view. The Discovery 1 is largely a Range Rover with just a few different body panels and different interior.

Yes they can rust in some places. But that doesn't mean every single one is rusty or rusty everywhere. And unless you are after a concurs vehicle, many would be perfectly fine without needing to do a full rebuild.

The oily bits are generally the same as a Defender with lots of transferable parts. So they really shouldn't be a money pit unless you are paying over the odds labour costs to some self proclaimed specialist who is charging and arm and leg, just because it has an RR badge.

Not all parts are available currently, but most bits can be relatively easily sourced or repaired.

Like a Discovery 1, the RRC is more refined with a much more comprehensive NVH package. It also directly addresses the interior space complaints of a Series or Defender vehicle. Having the same overall width, but only seating 2 across in the front instead of 3, you get a lot more room.

Automatic diesels are rare. Not sure the 200Tdi was offered with an auto. The 300 was, but only for a short production run. Generally these feel very sluggish and slow. Remapped/tweaked they can go ok, but the Tdi is not a powerhouse. The vast majority of RRC's are V8 powered and likely sporting an automatic. The V8 is a much better engine in the RRC than the Tdi, but do expect 12-16mpg economy. The 3.9's go better than the 3.5's, although it is easy to mod a RV8 or even swap in a 4.6 litre.

Apart from age related condition, the RRC is generally a very nice vehicle to own and drive. It'll do everything a Defender does, but generally better. It is only in recent years they have started to get popular and expensive. For many years or decades you could pick them up for peanuts. And many people enjoyed running them. As a family we've 6 RRC's over the years. And one of them twice as my brother & I bought back our Mum's one a few years ago. It sadly does need a lot of work now. But has great potential.
Post #1020503 8th Jan 2024 11:20am
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1426

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I'm another that's had a RRC and also say they're terrible for rust.
They were designed in the 1960's, built by British Leyland or it's later incarnations and have build quality and rust protection from that period.

A good condition, original, cared for vehicle imported from a dry climate or Japan would be my preferred source for another.
Post #1020510 8th Jan 2024 12:06pm
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Moo



Member Since: 01 Oct 2021
Location: UK
Posts: 1398

Ukraine 
I'd get a good Disco3 or 4. Super comfy, great to drive and fantastically practical. Thumbs Up Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy.
Post #1020513 8th Jan 2024 12:33pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1079

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Had a RRC in Houston, great because there is no rust! Would not want to own one in Europe. Had a disco 2 liked the car but suffered badly from chassis rot. Had several Discovery 3/4 great cars in petrol. My last Disco 4 cratered recently on the motorway. Tdv6 engine is a disaster 10k instant write off. never again. More recent RR are becoming affordable, but have engine or gearbox issues and are a little too complicated to self fix at home (engine/gearbox swap). You risk 10k in repairs or scrapping the car.

So I got a P38, very few rust issues. V8 with LPG for Paris LEZ. I am cleaning the air as I drive! Very few issues and known for bomproof reliability (not). Still easy enough to work on, lots of forum support and documented problem/solution, still plenty used parts around.

Once you dive in you find you can count all the potential major issues on one hand. Check and sort them out and you have a fine vehicle!
Post #1020565 8th Jan 2024 4:21pm
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