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chopcat



Member Since: 11 Sep 2012
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 412
Wales 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Java Black
Fuel pump wiring
TD5
Can anyone shed some light on the wiring route for the fuel pump. We had the rear crossmember replaced some time ago at the time there was an issue with the fuel pump cutting out. That was sorted with a return to the people who did the crossmember and now years later the same thing is happening with intermittent cutting out.

Once we have a dry spell I need to investigate and guess the cables are running somewhere along the chassis. Any tips would be welcome

Trevor
Post #1020069 4th Jan 2024 8:54am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2237
United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
The fuel pump cables run down the inside of the driver's side chassis section. The original location for the wiring to emerge is in the rear wheel arch just infront of the crossmember. At this point the wiring loom splits into the sections which do the rear lighting and towing electrics which run backwards, and the section which runs forwards to the fuel pump and the fuel filter water sensor (if fitted).

Cheers,
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #1020071 4th Jan 2024 9:12am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1084
France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Fuel pump issues can also be related to the relay (cheap and simple to replace, under RHD driver seat) or the pump itself. Obviously if you suspect a previous chassis repair damaged the cables it is a good place to start, just don't count out the other options.

In my experience garages are not good at cable repairs. You can twist two cables together and it is will work, maybe wrap some tape around it for show which is unfortunately what a fair few garages do. To do a proper repair you need to completely seal the joint from water meaning your wire insulation needs to be intact first then your joint needs to involve glue filled shrink tube either as part of the crimp joint or as a separate shrink tube. The glue bit is very important, it needs to ooze out before solidifying which will provide a mechanical bond that is waterproof.

It is is satisfying though to make a good and lasting repair and an easy way to vastly improve a neglected and abuse car.
Post #1020072 4th Jan 2024 9:25am
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chopcat



Member Since: 11 Sep 2012
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 412
Wales 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Java Black
Many Thanks Steve

I shall investigate and report back ….

Trevor
Post #1020074 4th Jan 2024 9:45am
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chopcat



Member Since: 11 Sep 2012
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 412
Wales 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Java Black
Having just rewired my chopper I have all the gear out so once I find the problem we can fix it properly. I will take a look at the relays as well. It is odd that it is intermittent so that could well be the issue

TexasRover wrote:
Fuel pump issues can also be related to the relay (cheap and simple to replace, under RHD driver seat) or the pump itself. Obviously if you suspect a previous chassis repair damaged the cables it is a good place to start, just don't count out the other options.

In my experience garages are not good at cable repairs. You can twist two cables together and it is will work, maybe wrap some tape around it for show which is unfortunately what a fair few garages do. To do a proper repair you need to completely seal the joint from water meaning your wire insulation needs to be intact first then your joint needs to involve glue filled shrink tube either as part of the crimp joint or as a separate shrink tube. The glue bit is very important, it needs to ooze out before solidifying which will provide a mechanical bond that is waterproof.

It is is satisfying though to make a good and lasting repair and an easy way to vastly improve a neglected and abuse car.
Post #1020075 4th Jan 2024 9:47am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1628
Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Travels down the oval black plug at the footwell (engine side) down the chassis. Check if the plug retainers are holding it onto the bulkhead, often forgot about when removing the gearbox or clutch and is a great rubbing point.
Post #1020114 4th Jan 2024 4:12pm
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